Where to go iceclimbing?

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IClimb Ice Climbing School (MCS AlexClimb)

On which objects you can practice iceclimbing and train your basic skills of ascending glaciers?

To begin with, let's immediately define what we call iceclimbing and what iceclimbing is definitely not in our understanding.

Iceclimbing is a bright and active type of outdoor recreation

Iceclimbing is a beautiful kind of active leisure or sport that can be practiced in the fresh air in the most beautiful and untouched corners of our planet.

Iceclimbing is, first of all, a bright adventure, an opportunity to test your strength, acquire new physical skills, and expand the geography of your travels.

Iceclimbing on the volcanic ash-covered Erman Glacier in Kamchatka

It should be borne in mind that the use of iceclimbing equipment to climb objects and surfaces not intended for this purpose is not iceclimbing - with rare special exceptions - it is a harmful, dangerous and destructive activity that has neither aesthetic appeal nor benefit.

Classic iceclimbing can and should be practiced on the objects created by nature itself, practicing iceclimbing techniques on obstacles that meet the nature of this type of activity.

First of all, of course, these are cascades - waterfalls of varying length and difficulty (degree of inclination) that freeze in winter.

Classical iceclimbing on cascades

Less common, but also having the right to exist, is iceclimbing on the slopes of glaciers and on separate ice blocks - seracs. As a rule, this format of iceclimbing is available not only in winter, but also during the summer season.

And a completely exotic form of iceclimbing is iceclimbing on floating icebergs - but this is too adventurous format of iceclimbing, requiring complex logistical preparation, to talk about it as an established form of this sport.

A giant iceberg off the coast of Iceland

You can read more about winter and summer ice climbing in my articles on these topics.

In order for a particular location to be considered as an area for iceclimbing, it is necessary to take into account not only the presence of ice objects in it.

Iceclimbing training on the natural cascades in Norway

The key factor for choosing a location for iceclimbing, more important than the presence of a cascade or glacier, is the availability of accompanying infrastructure, convenient approaches to the climbing zone, accessibility of the area for rescue operations in case of an accident (iceclimbing is a potentially dangerous activity).

It is critically important to consider the availability and effectiveness of specialized rescue services in the area where iceclimbing training is supposed to be carried out.

The safety of iceclimbing depends on the professionalism and response speed of rescue services

Thus, not all the freezing waterfalls and glaciers, no matter how attractive they may seem for climbing, can be considered as optimal objects for iceclimbing.

Based on the concept of my Ice Climbing School, I can say that when choosing a location, first of all, I evaluate such factors as its comprehensive safety, ease of access to the training area, the availability and quality of professional rescue services.

Iceclimbing on the ice seracs of the Caucasian glacier

Otherwise, if the ice objects are located either in difficult access or beyond the reach of rescue services - for iceclimbing there are unjustified additional risks, more typical for mountaineering than for iceclimbing as a form of sports leisure.

Considering the high level of objective danger of iceclimbing, such an approach should be excluded.

Iceclimbing on a glacier, Central Caucasus

Speaking directly about the locations in which I conduct my iceclimbing training, it is necessary to mention Norway first of all, where my School has already spent more than 10 winter seasons.

With a huge selection of iceclimbing objects throughout Norway, almost all of them are ideally integrated into the infrastructure for safe winter outdoor leisure, have clear and convenient access, and in case of an accident - the response time of the rescue service is minimal.

Iceclimbing training of MCS AlexClimb at the iconic iceclimbing location Rjukan in Norway

The mountainous regions of Central Europe - especially the high part of the Alps mountain range - Northern Italy, France, Switzerland - offer a lot of opportunities for civilized and relatively safe iceclimbing.

A series of guides to the iceclimbing areas of Northern Italy

Speaking about iceclimbing in Russia, unfortunately, it is not possible to list for long the areas for this type of activity. Only a few mountain areas that can be called civilized have a combination of the above-mentioned factors.

First of all, this is the Elbrus region in the North Caucasus, a traditionally popular winter recreation area.

Summer iceclimbing in the Elbrus region

In the Elbrus area you can find numerous cascades and glaciers with relatively convenient access and within reach of rescue services. Unfortunately, the quality of these services does not always correspond to the breadth of the region's tourist capabilities, but at least they exist.

The second area for iceclimbing training in Caucasus is Dombay region - the situation in this Caucasian ski resort roughly corresponds to the Elbrus area.

The Dombay ski resort has a number of options for iceclimbing

Certain options for iceclimbing are available in the Khibin mountains and the Urals. This is where the list of Russian opportunities for classical iceclimbing can be completed.

With the huge abundance of potentially interesting objects for iceclimbers throughout this vast country, only a few areas have the combination of the necessary factors for safe iceclimbing.

MCS AlexClimb iceclimbing trip to the Lofoten archipelago, Norway

To complete the picture, I will mention some sites which are exotic for the residents of Europe. An endless number of options for iceclimbing are available in South and North America.

As a climbing coach I have conducted the iceclimbing training in the USA, Argentina, Peru and Bolivia, and I have information about the huge popularity, quality and availability of iceclimbing areas in Canada.

Iceclimbing training in the USA, New Jersey

To summarize the text, I will say: a thoughtless and reckless choice of location for iceclimbing can cause the most unpleasant consequences, spoil not only the impression of this beautiful sport, but also darken the entire future sporting life.

Choosing a location for iceclimbing is a very responsible task, the correct solution of which depends not only on the quality and quantity of your positive emotions, but, in a negative scenario, the severity of possible consequences.

As much as I would like to climb the "wild" cascades in hard-to-reach or uninfrastructured mountainous areas of the Caucasus, Altai, Sayan or Kamchatka, for the safety and comfort of my clients, I will make a choice in favor of more famous, proven and popular climbing destinations.

Author of text and photos - Alex Trubachev

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