Cordillera Huayhuash

Read in Telegram in English
Leer en Telegram en Español

My collection of mountain programs in Peru

What are the features of the Cordillera Huayhuash, a small mountain system located in the central part of Peru, and why this location is so interesting for mountaineering or trekking?

In the Quechua language, the name of this mountain system is translated as weasel or ermine - or some animal similar to it.

One day you should travel to Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru

According to the legend, in the distant past, when local shepherds went out with their sheep to the high mountain pastures of the Cordillera Huayhuash, they complained about cases of vampirism. The poor fellows often found their sheep or even cows dead and bloodless.

This phenomenon was attributed to a small, harmless-looking, but very aggressive predator, similar to a European ferret or a small marten. It is difficult to say whether this is true or not, but the name of these mountains is associated with such a rather gloomy legend.

This sweet creature is actually a serious predator, dangerous to birds and animals several times larger than itself

Today, the Cordillera Huayhuash is a very popular tourist area, and it should be especially noted that no cases of blood sucking from tourists have been observed there in the last 50 years. At most, they suck out money there, but even then - in exchange for a fairly wide range of tourist services.

After a difficult journey, tourists are ready to give their last savings for a bottle of cold beer. Or two - nice business!

The Cordillera Huayhuash has a number of unique features that make these mountains extremely interesting for trekking and for other types of mountain activities - mountaineering, rock climbing, ski touring.

These mountains gained worldwide fame after the publication of Joe Simpson’s book “Touching the Void” and the subsequent film adaptation of its dramatic plot, which took place on Mount Siula Grande, one of the most difficult peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash. I have a separate story about this.

The famous plot of the movie 'Touching the Void' is based on real events at the route of Siula Grande

Despite the fact that the first part of the name of the Cordillera Huayhuash is translated from Spanish as “ridge” (Cordillera), geographically, these mountains cannot be called a ridge - it is rather a local rise in relief over a very compact area.

In other words, the Cordillera Huayhuash is a small island of high and glacier-capped peaks surrounded by flat high desert - the Sierra.

Cordillera Huayhuash - an island of snowy peaks among the endless Sierra

Inspired by my first encounter with the Cordillera Huayhuash in 2012, I have preserved my impressions in a detailed and well-illustrated text.

The Cordillera Huayhuash is located approximately 100 kilometers in a straight line from the central part of the famous Cordillera Blanca mountain system, which contains almost all of Peru's most popular mountain routes.

Huaraz in Peru is a center of international tourism and mountaineering

The distance by road from the “Peruvian Chamonix” - the town of Huaraz to the nearest settlements to the Cordillera Huayhuash is approximately 140 km. Taking into account the quality and loopiness of the road, this distance normally takes 4-5 hours of rather bumpy driving.

The road from Huaraz to the beginning of the route in Cordillera Huayhuash

The Cordillera Huayhuash mountain system measures approximately 30 kilometers long and 10 kilometers wide. In this fairly compact territory there are numerous peaks reaching very serious altitudes of 6000+ meters.

Satellite view of the Cordillera Huayhuash

The main peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash are Yerupaja (6617 m), Siula (6344 m), Sarapo (6127 m) and Irishanka (6094 m). There are more than 40 peaks with an altitude exceeding 5000 m in the Cordillera Huayhuash.

The vast majority of the climbing routes in the Cordillera Huayhuash belong to high categories of difficulty and are attempted exclusively by professionally trained climbing expeditions.

Group of main peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash

However, the beauty and heartbreaking expressiveness of these peaks makes them attractive not only for climbing, but also for contemplation from the outside.

In terms of the beauty of the landscapes, the variety of relief forms, and the richness of colors, the Cordillera Huayhuash mountain system has no equal among the world's tourist attractions.

The abundance of colorful mountain lakes is a characteristic feature of the Cordillera Huayhuash

Due to its compact size, the Cordillera Huayhuash is ideal for organizing a wide variety of tourist routes of varying lengths and complexity. The peculiarity of these routes, first of all, is the variety of the most vivid impressions, as well as the need for continuous stay at significant altitudes of 4000 - 5000 m.

The most inaccessible and incredibly beautiful peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash can be walked around in a few days, enjoying the change of perspective and the incredible variety of relief forms.

Fantastic forms of the Cordillera Huayhuash glaciers

Trekking in Cordillera Huayhuash

The standard trekking routes in the Cordillera Huayhuash at the moment are two classic treks - a long (10 days) “valley” option (Valle Circuit) - a beautiful and easy walking route 101 kilometers long.

This is a very popular travel option to the Cordillera Huayhuash, with a well-developed level of service everywhere along the route - as a rule, groups are accompanied by guides, pack animals, and support staff.

The standard 10 day trekking program in Cordillera Huayhuash is here

Route profile of the Valle Circuit in Cordillera Huayhuash

The second “standard” route in the Cordillera Huayhuash is the “Alpine Circuit” - also a circular journey around the high central part of the mountain system, but along a much smaller diameter - closer to the mountains.

Route profile of the Alpine Circuit in Cordillera Huayhuash

This route is 68 km long, it involves overcoming complex terrain - glaciers and steep slopes, it can be completed in an average of 8-9 days. The Alpine Circuit in the Cordillera Huayhuash is a very beautiful challenge for experienced mountain tourists and climbers, seasoned in difficult conditions.

The 8 day trekking program Alpine Circuit in Cordillera Huayhuash is here

On the Alpine Circuit route in the Cordillera Huayhuash

In addition, there are many combinations and options for these two routes, including those combined with climbing ascents of various difficulty levels, which add a brighter impression to the overall aesthetic perception of this beautiful mountain system.

Safety in Cordillera Huayhuash

No, this inhabitant of the Cordillera Huayhuash is not dangerous - it is viscacha, some kind of chinchillas that live at altitudes of more than 4000 km

Of course, there are no safe mountains. The very shape of the mountainous terrain poses a danger to humans.

However, the overall level of safety in a particular area is determined by a combination of factors: the presence and effectiveness of rescue infrastructure, the presence of tourist traffic, the speed of providing possible assistance, the level of criminal activity in the area and the attitude of the local authorities towards it.

By most factors, trekking routes in the Cordillera Huayhuash can be considered safe

The combination of these factors in the Cordillera Huayhuash is not ideal by European standards, but overall safety level can be considered quite favorable.

In the recent past, a variety of incidents of varying levels of severity have occurred along the Cordillera Huayhuash routes. Until 1992, the gorges of the Cordillera Huayhuash mountain system served as a refuge for militants of the communist group Shining Path, who often robbed and took hostage the few crazy tourists who dared to go to the mountains at their own.

By a strange coincidence, the ideologists of various armed outrages around the world remain unchanged...

This stage of the history of Peru is in the past; now you can only go on a tour to the former fortified terrorist shelters, which are now used as shelters for livestock and as a tourist attraction.

Cases of criminal attacks on the tourists in the Cordillera Huayhuash mainly come down to random theft, which is not systemic in its nature - as elsewhere in the world, you should not throw your things around and always have to take care of your belongings.

The most universal rule anywhere -to scare off bandits you should to look like a bandit yourself.

Local authorities, receiving significant income from tourist traffic, independently monitor the level of personal safety of tourists. Popular trails are monitored by rangers and visitors are charged a small fee "for the safety measures".

There is no specialized mountain rescue service in the Cordillera Huayhuash - in case of an accident, assistance is provided by local rangers and mountain guides from the nearby routes.

Yerupaja is the highest mountain of the Cordillera Huayhuash mountain range

Obviously, these are not very favorable conditions for high-risk technical mountaineering, but still it is sufficient level of safety for any trekking routes.

In case of minor injuries or illnesses, most groups have a special option for emergency evacuation - a rescue horse.

Emergency horses in the Cordillera Huayhuash are numerous but it is not always easy to catch

Despite all my dislike for boring and monotonous trekking, I can say that the Cordillera Huayhuash offers truly worthwhile routes and experience!

Especially considering the altitude factor, a trip to the Cordillera Huayhuash can be regarded as an excellent preparation and acclimatization for more difficult climbs, such as Alpamayo or Huascaran in the Cordillera Blanca.

After completing the trekking route in the Cordillera Huayhuash, you can even allow yourself to stand on your hands at the foot of the most beautiful mountain in the world - Nevado Alpamayo

In accordance with the new official regulations of the Huayhuash National Park (2023), independent travel in this mountain system is possible only if organized by local certified agency which provides a qualified guide who communicates with the rangers and local authorities in various parts of the Cordillera Huayhuash.

Lets start our way to the Cordillera Huayhuash

In other words, it’s cheaper to pay once in Huaraz than to pay all the “officials” along the route.

----------------------------------

If you accidentally came across this material via an external link, and (which would be great) if you got interested in my text, I will be grateful if you subscribe to my blog IClimb - I run this channel for those who are looking for beauty, purity and tranquility in this crazy world.

Author of the text and photographs Alex Trubachev

Your professional guide for the mountain routes of Peru, Bolivia and Argentina

MCS EDIT 2024