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How to sharpen crampons
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High-quality sharpening of crampons is definitely a matter of your safety in the mountains and the effectiveness of your foot support on the slope during the ascent and descent. In addition, it is also a matter of energy consumption - with no doubts about your foot positioning, you can move more relaxed and spend less energy on extraneous coordination movements.
Quality crampon sharpening is important in any kind of mountaineering and iceclimbing
In this small article I will not touch on the nuances of sharpening equipment for iceclimbing - there are also some secrets in that. We will talk about this closer to the beginning of the iceclimbing season.
Checking crampons before iceclimbing training, Norway
Now a few tips for sharpening crampons for alpine climbing.
The main rule for sharpening crampons: maintaining the factory geometry of the points. That is, during sharpening, you should not change the angle or change the thickness of the metal of your crampons.
After the wear of the crampons makes it impossible to maintain the factory geometry, all manufacturers and experts strongly recommend that the crampons should be replaced.
Reinforced front points of technical climbing crampons
Reinforced front points (for technical models of crampons), having a significant thickness of mental, should be sharpened in three planes, the front part at 45 °, the angle of attack is 25 ° -40 °
The lateral, central, rear points of cats, having the shape of a plate, should be sharpened only for convergence, in no case lessening the thickness of the metal. The same applies to the front points of firn (non-technical crampons). For any alpine climbing or technical ascents, all the points of the crampons must be sharpened.
Forced front points of technical climbing crampons
Blunt crampons can be afforded only by those who fundamentally have no skill in the crampon use, or by those who climb the routes with a guaranteed absence of ice (steep rocky, grassy, firn slopes).
Antique hunting crampon for safe walking on snow or firn slopes
You can sharpen your crampons with a file or (carefully) on an emery wheel. The main thing is not to heat the metal when sharpening on a mechanical sharpener - after each touch of the grinding circle, the crampon point should be cooled in the cold water.
Technique of crampon sharpening with a nail file
Otherwise, you can "weaken" the metal, and it will lose a significant part of its strength. For this reason, I would not advise giving your crampons to anyone for sharpening. This piece of equipment is extremely important for your personal safety, and any carelessness during repairs can lead to an unexpected failure of the crampons at the most critical moment of the climbing route.
Foot support is a key element of the iceclimbing and mountaineering techniques. The quality of this support and the safety of climbing depend on the quality of sharpening crampons
Any sharpening crampons shortens the next period of use, so, the crampon sharpening skill never is superfluous and you definitely will need it more than once in the future.
The author of the text and photos - Alex Trubachev
Your professional technical mountain guide
MCS EDIT 2023
Our Principles
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First
From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.
