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Elbrus questions
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Questions on the alpine programs
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Queries on the Mountain Course in Adyl Su valley
Description of the program Alpine course in Adyl su
Question 1. Equipment: Bivouac. Overnight stays on the rocks, even in minus 10 C – that suggests using an inflatable mat or something thick, right? Requirements for the tent, at 4000m there is usually snow, tent should be with a skirt or the usual three-season tent is enough?
Answers MCS AlexClimb: We provide all the bivouac except personal things - the tents will be normal two-layered, large two sleeping ones. As for the Mat – you decide for yourself, I have been using the Thermarest mat for a long time and I do not even remember the foam karrimat))
Question 2. I understand that it is necessary to use hard crampons when climbing? Are the soft ones not an option? (this is to the question of the shoes in fact) What equipment can be rented at all? My equipment is basically for a trekking, there is no climbing gear at all.
Answers MCS AlexClimb: Crampons. In general, the concept of hard or soft crampons has long been a thing of the past with "futfang" - platform crampons, which everyone called hard crampons. Now no one is using them anymore, but the confusion with the names has remained. Now all the crampons can be attributed to soft, since the central bridge connecting the front part of the crampon with the heel (the most common construction of climbing crampons today) is always mobile. And do not confuse the type of crampons with a binding - these are different things. In my opinion, now the most successful type of attachment is strapping, when the front and back of the crampon have an elastic basket - this option is better than the option "under the welt", because the welt of your shoe wears out and your crampons begin to fell off. In short, if there are doubts, it's easier to show the crampons and the boot to us for consulting. Climbing gear on this program you do not need to have yours, everything will be provided, especially for members of the MCS AlexClimb Club
Question 3. Program: Concerning the "option" - what does the rest of the group do on this day? I just saw that on the peak of the MNR there is a route of 1B difficulty level, and in general from the VCSPS pass there are many routes of the initial complexity. I do not really understand what climbing IV + category is?
Answers MCS AlexClimb: During climbing an optional mountain, the group rests and morally supports the participants. In fact, if everything goes according to the plan, we will be down by noon and begin the descent to the base camp together with the whole group. Climbing grade IV+ is a simple climbing if you go to the gym that is almost nothing for you. But with you own belaying points.
Question 4. Common questions: Are you talking about using Aid Climbing in your course?
Answers MCS AlexClimb: I do not talk about Aid climbing within the standard Alpine climbing course, this topic is completely unnecessary for the beginners.
Text — Alexey Trubachev, founder of the MCS AlexClimb mountaineering and climbing school.
Our Principles
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First
From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.