Mountain climbing in Peru for beginner

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Collection of programs in Peru here

Which peaks in Peru can climb a beginner (with a guide)?

Spoiler:

• Chopikalki 6345 m
• Urus 5420 m
• Pisco 5752 m
• Ishinka 5530 m
• Copa 6188 m
• Vayunaraju 5686m
• }Garchilaso Pyramid 5700 m

Panorama of the high part of the Cordillera Blanca from the summit of Nevado Santa Cruz

In the mountaineering world, the idea of Peru for a long time has been formed as a country in which are located the peaks of amazing beauty, altitude and complexity. These are names of the mountains that make itch the equipment lying on the shelf. Huascaran, Alpamayo, Siula Grande, Artesonraju... These peaks are the idols of the mountaineering world, the desired goals of many climbers. But the real achievements are accessible only for a tiny number of the strongest and most trained climbers.

The famous 'Trinity - Silua Grande, Yerupaja and Irishanka' - the key peaks of Cordillera Huayhuash

A logical question arises, what to do being a realist? What mountain climbing routes in Peru are available for these climbers who do not have extensive experience or perfect physical shape? – you should agree, climbing the vertical ice walls at the altitudes of 6000+ m is not accessible to everyone.

East Face of Alpamayo, covered with ice mushrooms

In order to answer this question, we should understand the general situation of the mountaineering in Peru - what are the restrictions, what features of the infrastructure and what opportunities does this exciting country offer for this kind of activity?

The two-headed massif of Nevado Huascaran - the highest mountain in Peru

So, mountaineering in Peru - what are its main features? Firstly, mountaineering came to this country quite recently, no more than 50-60 years ago. It was brought by European climbers, who, in search of new climbing routes, discovered amazing mountains - Cordillera Blanca, with a huge number of unconquered fantastically beautiful peaks. Then, in the era of the “alpine gold rush”, routes to the most significant and difficult peaks of the Peruvian mountains were discovered and climbed.

Nevado Ranrapalca in Cordillera Blanca

Today, the mountaineering of high achievements in Peru has already ended. The main activity in the mountains has now moved into the form of commercial use of already existing and popular routes. The commercialization of mountaineering has made climbing more accessible to the general public and has greatly expanded the range of routes available for climbing.

The world-famous silhouette of Nevado Artesonraju - the logo of the company Paramount Pictures

The growth of tourist and mountaineering infrastructure has led to the emergence of a large number of the local offers for services related to logistics on the mountain routes. Transportation of cargo, service of mountaineering expeditions by porters, cooks, local guides - all this has become the most important source of the income for the whole region. Thus, the most remote and inaccessible mountain areas have become safer and more convenient for travel and climbing.

Climbing in the Nevado Alpamayo Massif, Cordillera Blanca

There are not so many restrictions for organized mountain climbing in Peru. Firstly, there are no strict prohibitions on any form of travel or climbing. All restrictions that are introduced at the level of the national parks are mainly of a general informational nature and do not go beyond the boundaries of the formal recommendations. In recent years, information has appeared about the need to pay for the services of a local guide when going for some climbing ascents. This form of restriction has not taken the same rigid form as, for example, in Africa on the Kilimanjaro routes. There was not a single case when any groups were denied access to the climbing route due to the lack of a local guide. In addition, no national park in Peru has the ability to control this restriction.

Climbing Mount Urus in Cordillera Blanca

Also, the registration with local authorities is desirable but not something mandatory. You cannot be denied assistance in the event of an accident, in the absence of any registration or insurance - this is nonsense. These measures are taken solely to facilitate the task of rescuers in the event of an accident with you on the route. Lack of registration does not in any way limit your rights to access any mountain area or receive assistance if needed.

Cerro Cuyoc in Cordillera Hyayhuash - several routes were climbed along the face part of the mountain

Also, the lack of medical insurance does not affect the efficiency of the first aid in case of an accident. You will not be asked for insurance before assistance is provided. As in any civilized country, assistance will be provided as soon as possible, in accordance with the capabilities of the local rescue services. These capacities are very limited, by the way. These services will be billed once the necessary assistance has been provided.

The summit of Nevado Quitaraju at dawn, Cordillera Blanca

The opportunities for the mountain sports in Peru are almost endless. The country has a developed commercial tourist infrastructure, with a large number of competitive offers. By the way, the abundance of these offers and the competitive struggle of the local providers is a guarantee that, with a conscious choice, you will get a service of the appropriate quality and cost. The set of the climbing routes available for commercial use is very large both in their total number and in the range of difficulty of the routes. The choice starts from the simplest hiking routes of no more than 1-2 days, to the quite difficult, technical climbing ascents to quite serious mountain tops.

Acclimatization climb to the summit of Diablo Mudo in Cordillera Huayhuash

Naturally, from such a number of the possibilities, any climber can go crazy getting into the zone of attraction of the incredible peaks of the Cordillera Blanca for a first time.

However, don't rush. These mountains have hidden features that make them treacherous in their own way. The first and main insidiousness of these mountains is their apparent accessibility. White giants shine in the crystal clear sky like toys. It seems that you can reach out your hand and take them as they are yours. But it does not work in this way. Climbing most of the peaks of Cordillera Blanca requires serious preliminary preparation and acclimatization. The altitude factor in these mountains works differently than in Europe or Asia. You need to keep in mind that the soft influence of an altitude can cause serious errors and even accidents on the route.

Classic view of Nevado Alpamayo

I can understand the desire of a person who came to the Cordillera Blanca for the first time - to climb everything and everywhere, preferably immediately. However, reality dictates its own conditions. You always need to start from the very beginning, slowly gaining the altitude and complexity of the routes. Even with a stock of experience in the mountain climbing, you should get acquainted with these mountains on the simple, popular routes. Assess your strength, physical condition. Then, having gained confidence in your body reaction, you can challenge the more difficult goals.

On the top of Mount Ishinka, acclimatization before climbing Nevado Alpamayo

I always recommend starting any climbing programs in Peru with a simple trekking - the set of these opportunities in the Cordillera Blanca and neighboring mountain systems is incredible.

You should not save time on the 1-2 day easy walks in the mountains - during moderate exercise, the body gets used to the new conditions, adapts to the altitude and unusual load. A few days are worth spending without any sporting feats.

Beautiful trekking to the lagunas coloradas area - good acclimatization before climbing high mountains in Peru

Next - you will see what is possible for you. As a beginner, you can choose a wide variety of peaks of initial technical complexity, but at the same time allowing you to feel the grandeur and beauty of the Cordillera Blanca mountain system. To do this, it is not necessary to climb Nevado Alpamayo, scale Sioula or Huascaran.

There are quite suitable routes to the summits of: Chopikalki 6345 m, Urus 5420 m, Pisco 5752 m, Ishinka 5530 m, Copa 6188 m, Vayunaraju 5686 m, Garchilaso Pyramid 5700 m, etc. *

Nevado Yerupaja summit view during a training ascent of Mount Diablo Mudo

In addition to the listed peaks, the opportunities for climbing in the Cordillera Blanca are much wider if you are ready for a long (more than 2 days) approaches to the beginning of the climbing route.

* Do not be misled by the low complexity of the routes of the listed peaks. All of these routes have mountaineering specifics - it is assumed that the participants of the climb have basic experience in belaying technique, know how to handle with crampons and an ice axe, have mountain navigating skills.

Morning mountain exercises on the summit of Mount Ishinka during the acclimatization before technical ascents

And most important. The information presented in this article has nothing to do with the possibility of climbing alone. Any solo ascents in the mountains are associated with the critical risks and are not covered by any type of mountain insurance.

The author of the text and photos is Alex Trubachev
Your guide to the mountain and hiking routes in Peru and Bolivia

MCS EDIT 2023