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FAQ

Mutual responsibility in mountaineering

What do we take from mountain climbing? Will the joy of our victory be complete and clean, if we understand that we have passed by someone else's misfortune? Will we be as happy on the summit if a stranger died on our way before reaching it? These questions should be asked at the very beginning of your mountaineering carrier, because the right answer depends on why we go to the mountains - for the sake of our selfish poor vanity and satisfaction of our personal small ambitions, or for the full personal growth and progress, for moral and physical development? After all, there will be no development if it is not based on the understanding of the principal ethic rules, the observance of which should not be affected either by your social status or nationality - the mountains make all of us equal and give us the opportunity to show our very human qualities, is not this the most valuable thin in mountaineering?

In the mountains, we often deal with situations in which the safety of other people depends, directly or indirectly, on others - for many it is a new, unknown level of responsibility, unusual and inapplicable in normal, urban living conditions. However, one must understand that when climbing mountain peaks, participating in mountain expeditions to remote areas, we expose ourselves to conditions in which, sometimes unexpectedly for ourselves, we got to a different level of responsibility for others, as our own life and safety depend on those who is next to us.

In our days the commercial relations between participants of the mountain ascents are developing along with growing industry of the business in mountaineering, and this makes corrections to the behavior of people in the emergency situations, but many of us just do not understand the specifics and trying to apply in those cases a habitual way of relationships although it is obviously not applicable here.

More than once I heard the fables that, allegedly, mutual support and help were inherent in the "Old Soviet mountaineering school," but in Western culture there is no idea of such mutual assistance. This is a complete nonsense and nationalist ideas - because from the old immemorial times, in maritime affairs directly related to Western culture, there was an immutable international law - to come for help at the sea for all those in need, go off the route, change course and do everything possible to save the suffering people who got into an accident. This is a matter of survival in the sea, which also, like the mountains, is an element of nature which is beyond the control of man.

Entering into the relationship with the elements of the mountains, we find ourselves in conditions when our life and safety are dependent on those people who accidentally are close to us - and there will be no other assistance in case of an accident. It does not matter if you are a client or a guide, your own or someone else's group is in trouble. In that situation there is no difference, because help is needed immediately.

Unfortunately, often come gloomy news about accidents in the mountains, in which the severity of the consequences is seriously aggravated by improper actions, or the complete indifference of the people who were in close proximity and were capable of coming to the rescue at a difficult moment. But, who did not accept this responsibility and did not give their assistance timely.

A few examples. Two guides roped together fell down while climbing Elbrus, after which their clients continued their route to the summit and successfully completed their ascent. The life of the two people in this case had lesser value than their own personal ambitions and desire to get to the top. How much does such a victory costs? Or when descending from Ushba, a person died of fatigue in only five meters from the tent, into which his partner has already entered and fell asleep, because was not less tired. Or left by the group, climber died of hypothermia, after he fell into crevasse on the glacier and the group went down to get the help of the rescue team thinking themselves not competent to render any help in this case. I will not even touch on a whole set of the stories about Everest, where people die on the trail, literally a step from indifferently passing by people - everyone has their own sherpas, their own oxygen, everyone spent his own money on the expedition - why stop there where somebody dies?

So, if we accept this as inevitability, if we explain our behavior by the fact that we paid money and everything else is outside of our responsibility, if we pass by those who are in urgent need, thinking that in the accident only rescuers should help - at a difficult moment we will be left without help in the situation when every minute can save a life, and any, even the most insignificant interference of other people can pass the trouble away.

In the extreme conditions of the mountains, when we are placing ourselves in the potentially dangerous conditions, and the trouble can come to any of us at any moment, the level of responsibility for each other increases many times, and on how much we care about the safety of the people around us, our own safety depends. So from this comes the first rule of our behavior in the mountains, time-tested and time proved and which finally became a law - help other people in need, and in the moment you need it - help will come to you.

Text — Alexey Trubachev, founder of the MCS AlexClimb mountaineering and climbing school.

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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