How to choose your first rockclimbing shoes

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How to choose shoes for rock climbing on artificial or natural terrain

I could answer this question in detail, listing manufacturers, different types and models of climbing shoes with different characteristics and specializations. In addition, it would be possible to mention numerous nuances of choosing climbing shoes for different types and features of terrain, types of rock climbing etc. But...

Classification of models of professional rock climbing shoes manufactured by La Sportiva

Most often, such a question ask people who are faced with the choice of this specific shoes for the first time and need the most basic recommendations.

So, first, let's make it clear - do you really understand what rock climbing shoes are?

Rock climbing shoes - footwear for a very specific area of application

Footwear for rock climbing - rock climbing shoes - are very specific footwear, the main feature of which is that it firmly fixes the foot, allowing support even on very small, sometimes literally microscopic irregularities of the rock.

Rock climbing on granite rocks with very small holds - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The specificity of rock climbing shoes is that the length of the climbing shoe is shorter than your foot. That is, when putting on, rock climbing shoes pinch your toes and tighten your foot, shortening it, thus reducing the leverage when leaning on the toe.

This property of rock climbing shoes causes extreme discomfort for a person who is not used to them.

The shape of rock climbing shoes provides the most stable support on the toe

The design of rock climbing shoes allows you to achieve the most stable support on small holds without applying significant effort.

This effect is achieved only with a rigid fixation of the foot in rock climbing shoes.

Granite slab - the most demanding form of rock relief for the quality of climbing shoes, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

You should not even dream of any comfort when wearing rock climbing shoes - comfort in this case is sacrificed in favor of the effectiveness of the support.

Rock climbing shoes are not designed nor for walking nor for long-term wear (the exception is narrowly specialized mountaineering climbing shoes for multi-pitch routes).

As a rule, rock climbing shoes are removed immediately after returning to the ground for a break between climbing sessions.

MCS AlexClimb rock climbing training on Kalymnos Island, Greece

Walking or belaying in rock climbing shoes is extremely uncomfortable.

Positioning of the foot in properly sized rock climbing shoes does not allow you to stand on a flat sole - structurally, rock shoes are designed exclusively for support on the toe, less often - on the back of the heel.

Rock climbing shoes are used exclusively during climbing and are removed immediately after descent

In addition, the lack of a shock-absorbing sole in climbing shoes can cause injury - a foot clamped in length does not absorb the impact in case of accidental jump or a sharp transfer of the body weight to the heel.

This was general information about the specifics of this, surprisingly extensive, category of footwear - rock climbing shoes.

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Now let's figure out what to do if you are just starting to climb the rocks - what aspects you should pay attention to when choosing rock climbing shoes.

Choosing your first pair of rock climbing shoes is a very important moment. The future of your new hobby depends on it

If the basic rock climbing skill - the technique of placing your feet - has not yet been worked out, you climb only easy routes with an abundance of comfortable and large holds - you should not subject yourself to unnecessary torture by choosing professional rock climbing shoes.

You will have to follow strict rules for choosing rock climbing shoes no earlier than you understand the basic nuances of rock climbing technique, will choose the training format - indoor / outdoor, type of rock climbing, type of rock terrain.

MCS AlexClimb rock climbing training on the island of Mallorca

For the initial level of training on the artificial rock climbing wall, it will be enough if the rock climbing shoes fit tightly on the foot, leaving no free space either in the heel or under the fixation.

At the same time, excessive freedom for your foot when using rock climbing shoes is also not allowed - these shoes must cause discomfort, otherwise they will be no more effective than regular sneakers.

Rock climbing on an artificial climbing wall

When choosing your first rock climbing shoes, you should not follow the recommendations of "experts" and try to put on rock climbing shoes three sizes smaller than your foot.

Often, sellers in the stores, having sufficient experience in rock climbing, do not take into account the goals and objectives of the beginner buyer, trying to sell the optimal model, in their opinion.

New rock climbing shoes are always pain and suffering. But you can choose the level of suffering according to your taste

Try on new rock climbing shoes on a bare foot or a thin regular sock. Sometimes, to make it easier to put on new rock climbing shoes, a plastic bag put on the foot is used, - this method should not be overestimated - usually experienced athletes rock climbers choose their climbing shoes this way.

Personal rock climbing shoes do not involve the use of socks, shoes are put on bare feet (not the same with rental shoes)

When choosing rock climbing shoes, try to avoid feeling pain or acute discomfort. At the first stage, pain in the feet will not allow you to focus on the main technical elements of the rock climbing and enjoy the process.

MCS AlexClimb rock climbing training on the island of Tenerife, Spain

To practice the basic rock climbing techniques, moderately tight rock shoes can be used, without additional extreme.

However, this does not mean that you can choose rock climbing shoes three sizes larger than your foot - in this case, the shoes will not perform even the minimum functions inherent in its specificity.

Many models of rock climbing shoes stretch after some time of use and take the individual shape of the foot

Later, moving on to more complex rock climbing routes and realizing the importance of "jewelry" use of the smallest foot support - you will choose the sufficient level of suffering that you are ready to endure in order to rise up the rock climbing category.

But this will already be a real sport. At the initial stage, in the segment of beginner or amateur rock climbing, such self torturing does not make sense - you need to enjoy climbing for your own pleasure!

Enjoying rock climbing at the MCS AlexClimb training in Mallorca

The choice of the manufacturer and model of rock climbing shoes, at the initial stage of rock climbing, is generally unimportant. What you like in form and color and what fits well, that's what you can take, in accordance with your aesthetic preferences and budget possibilities.

It should be kept in mind that for those who regularly attend rock climbing training, climbing shoes are a consumable item.

Rock climbing shoes last long only in one case: if you don’t climb in them

Until you learn to control your foot positioning, until you develop precision and coordination of movements, rock climbing shoes will wear out very quickly – this should be taken into account when buying expensive models.

The cost of rock climbing shoes is not a parameter that should be taken into account when buying. The price of many professional models of rock climbing shoes is determined by the brand’s fame and their narrow specificity, which a beginner cannot appreciate without mastering special climbing techniques.

In most cases, expensive models of rock climbing shoes are not relevant for beginners

In general, 30-40 years ago, the most famous climbers trained in the ordinary galoshes, and even earlier - climbers knitted special shoes from hemp rope for climbing vertical rock faces.

The absence of expensive branded rock climbing shoes did not prevent them from climbing the most difficult routes and winning international competitions.

'Rock climbing shoes' of the USSR Champion in mountaineering and rock climbing Mikhail Khergiani

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Here are my practical recommendations for choosing rock climbing shoes for a beginner:

1. Where will you use your rock climbing shoes - indoor climbing wall or rocks? For rock climbing on the natural rocks, take more rigid models, for climbing on artificial surfaces and bouldering - softer ones
2. Fixation - laces, Velcro or without fixation (stretchable top)? First of all, it depends on your body weight. Laces hold the rock climbing shoe in place better and are more suitable for heavier climbers. Velcro and shoes without fixation are suitable for lighter climbers and children. Rock climbing shoes without fixation are often used for fitness rock climbing or indoor bouldering training.
3. How to choose the proper size of rock climbing shoes? The climbing shoes should fit your foot tightly, leaving no free space inside either in the front or in the heel part. You can try them on bare feet or with a thin sock. When fixing the rock climbing shoes, there should be no pronounced pain points - the rock climbing shoes should not press too much in one specific spot. If the shoes press painfully, try on another model that is more suitable in shape for your foot.
4. Which model of rock climbing shoes to choose? For every taste, color and budget. Do not forget that rock climbing shoes are consumables, the first pair of your rock climbing shoes will last for 2-4 months of moderate intensity training (2-3 times a week).

Don't think long, just go climbing!

The author of the text and photos - Alex Trubachev

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