Belay device categories

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MCS AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School

The evolution of devices for belaying and rappelling in technical mountaineering, rock climbing and ice climbing.

Just 20-30 years ago, horned eights, or even “petals,” were used for belaying while climbing or rappelling.

It should be noted that in those days, such a paucity of choice did not upset anyone - climbers were happy that there was at least something. It may be ugly looking, but was “cheap and fun”

If you drop a tear looking at this photo, alas, it’s time to take anti-aging pills. Horned USSR made 'figure eight' Manaraga with Eremel carbine - a symbol of late Soviet mountaineering

Despite the unprepossessing appearance, these products were universal - they could be used both for training on the rocks or for industrial mountaineering.

Or even the owner could take it to the mountains. On the climbing routes, the sealant-stained "figure eights" spoke eloquently of the professionalism of their owners.

A museum rarity from Soviet times - the 'petal' belay device - which has no analogues in any of the categories of modern belay devices

Today, the development of the industry of safety equipment in mountaineering and rock climbing presents the possibility of a much wider selection of various devices for belaying and rappelling.

In order not to get confused in the variety of devices for rappelling and belaying, it is important, at least in general terms, to understand the features of different groups of these devices and the nuances of their use.

Providing top rope belay during climbing training at MCS AlexClimb School, Mallorca

Let's look further at the three main categories of belay / rappel devices - Figure Eight, ATC (basket) and ABD (gri-gri).

It is these three categories that include all the devices that are relevant for mountaineering, rock climbing and ice climbing, allowing you to provide both top and lead belays, as well as serve as descenders for a single or double rope.

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Classics of the genre - “Figure Eight” category of the belay / rappel devices

'Figure Eight' belay / rappel device

This category of belay / rappel devices includes a wide variety of devices that structurally retain the basic idea of their prototype - two rings of different diameters connected by a jumper.

The rope passes through a larger ring and is slowed down by a bend in the carabiner, or, in another method, by the body of the figure eight, in rare cases - only by the small ring, or by the large ring.

Regular use of the 'Figure Eight' device to provide lead or top rope belay

"Figure Eight” is an unconditional classic of the genre of belay / rappel devices, which today has completely retained its relevance in the field of mountaineering.

Among the advantages of this device, I should especially note the versatility of the "Figure Eight" - it works on the rope of any diameter, and is loyal to the rigidity and quality of the rope.

Using the classic 'Figure Eight' in the Sticht method

The large Figure Eight ring even allows you to move over knots on the rope without clipping out your descender when rappelling the fixed rope - none of the more modern rappel devices has this option.

The Figure Eight can be used for descent on both single and double ropes - this is an extremely important quality when using the device on the alpine climbing routes.

Using the Figure Eight as rappel device for a double rope

The disadvantages of the “Figure Eight” include its feature to twist and wear out the rope, as well as the complete inability of this device to slow down or block the rope if control over the lower end is lost.

This feature of the Figure Eight requires the use of additional rope blocking devices when using a Figure Eight for rappelling (a Prussik knot or a mechanical clamp)

Using a Prussik knot when rappelling on a Figure Eight to belay the lower end of the rope

The choice of the "Figure Eight" as a belay / rappel device is justified if you have to deal with old, worn, dirty or icy ropes, when descending along stationary fixed ropes of unknown condition.

For sport rock climbing or ice climbing, the Figure Eight belay device is currently losing its relevance, sometimes even to the point of being banned for use in some public rock climbing gyms.

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ATC (Air Traffic Controller) is the most popular category of non-automatic belay / rappel devices for mountaineering and rock climbing.

This category includes belay / rappel devices such as BD XP, CAMP Piu, Metolius Be Up, Petzl Riverso and numerous other non-mechanical devices for belaying and rappelling.

ATC category belay devices

Structurally, all ATC devices have a cylindrical body with two openings for the rope (less often with one), the rope is braked by the carabiner and the edges of the device body when the rope is bent.

ATC is a common name; it comes from one of the first devices of this design, released by the American company Black Diamond - ATC (Air Traffic Controller).

BD ATC belay / rappel devices

Today, ATC devices have gained immense popularity throughout the world as the most versatile and safe devices for rappelling and belaying.

Improvement and expansion of the range of ATC devices does not stop today.

New devices and modern technical solutions are emerging to improve safety when belaying or rappelling, reducing the load on the lower end of the rope, reducing its wear, and reducing the risk of falling when losing control of the lower end of the rope.

Using the Petzl Riverso ATC belay device in the Guide mode

When used on a double rope, due to the separate openings for two ropes, ATC category devices minimize the effect of rope rubbing against itself during descent, which is typical for the classic Figure Eights.

This design solution of the ATC devices significantly reduces rope wear and the likelihood of rope tangling during the long rappels.

ATC device's separate rope gaps prevent the rope from twisting on the long rappels

Many modern ATC devices have expanded functionality due to some additional design elements.

These devices can be used to organize pulleys and crevasse rescue systems, solve non typical problems when organizing belay both for top rope or leading.

Using an ATC device in Guide mode to belay a second on a multi pitch climbing route

Due to their practicality and versatility, ATC category devices fall into the field of professional use in the sports and industrial mountaineering, rock climbing and ice climbing.

Among the disadvantages of the ATC group of belay / rappel devices, I should highlight their sensitivity to the diameter and quality of the rope. This effect is especially noticeable on the new models of ATC devices, which have narrower rope gapes compared to the older models.

The Sticht Plate is the closest ancestor of all the devices of the ATC family

Please note that the lack of an automatic rope locking function on the classic ATCs requires additional safety solutions when working with the device.

In particular, when rappelling on a double or single rope, additional protection is required for the lower end of the rope in case of loss of control over it.

Prussik knot protection of the lower end when rappelling using an ATC device

In general, this feature is not a disadvantage of ATC belay devices, as it provides significantly more opportunities to provide safe belaying of the leader (ABD rope blocking devices are not so well suited to this task).

The choice of an ATC belay / rappel device will be optimal when using high-quality ropes on the mountaineering or rock climbing routes, to solve various issues when organizing belay.

Abseiling using an ATC device on the Mount Ushba route, Caucasus

All ATC devices provide significantly better control over the rope compared to Figure Eight devices.

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The boundary between the ATC belay / rappel device categories and the next ABD category is determined by the presence of an automatic rope locking function.

Depending on how this function is structurally realized in the device, it may belong to the first (Passive) or second (Active) part of the general category ABD (Assisted Braking Devices)

CAMP Yo-Yo was one of the first (rather unsuccessful) attempts to add an automatic rope locking function to an ATC device

In the process of evolution, some ATC devices, while maintaining their characteristic design, got the ability to automatically brake or block the rope due to their geometric features.

Belay / rappel devices Edelrid Mega Jul, BD Pilot, Mammut Smart, CT Alpine Up, etc. in their concept and design are still close to the ATC category, however, they already have the function of blocking or braking the rope.

ABD belay / rappel device CT Alpine Up

On devices of the Passive ABD category, the function of blocking the rope is achieved solely due to the specific geometry of the device, without the use of any mechanical moving parts that block the rope, which are characteristic of the Active ABD category.

Passive ABD devices are universal for both mountaineering and rock climbing. They can be used for belaying and rappelling on both single and double ropes, if this is provided for by their design.

ABD belay / rappel device for single rope Mammut Smart

In the most cases of using an ABD device for rappelling, additional belaying of the lower end is not required (subject to the nominal diameter of the rope), since the risk of loss of control is minimalized by the automatic construction of the device.

With an increased diameter, dirt or sand or ice on the rope or its wear condition, devices of the ABD category may function unstably, especially semi-automatic devices like Jul, Mega Jul, Smart, BD Pilot and a number of others.

In addition, the operation of Passive ABD automatic system often greatly depends on the model of the carbine used in the kit.

ABD belay / rappel device Salewa Ergo for a single rope with a kit carabiner - the automation may not work when using other carabiners

The most obvious disadvantage of all ABD devices is their tendency to block the rope on the sudden pull. This feature certainly increases safety when providing a top rope or rappelling.

But, in the case of using an ABD device to belay the leader, additional risks arise, since, by no means always, abruptly stopping a fall is the optimal belay solution.

Using the Edelrid Mega Jul ABD device to provide a top rope belay during our rock climbing training in Mallorca

For this reason, it is recommended to use a non-automatic ATC device for belaying the leader, which gives greater freedom of action to the belayer.

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Active ABD - a category of automatic mechanical devices for belaying and rappelling

The flagship of the ABD category of belay / rappel devices - Petzl Grigri - it blocks the rope using a movable eccentric inside its body

Having achieved the maximum level of safety and comfort in use, devices in the Active ABD category have largely lost their versatility.

Due to the significant weight, complexity of the design and, in the most cases, the inability of using on a double rope, Active ABD devices are not relevant for being used on the alpine climbing or mountaineering routes.

At the same time, Active ABD devices are practically indispensable for providing top belay in the indoor/outdoor rock climbing gyms, as well as for single rope descent in the industrial mountaineering, canyoning, etc.

The failed 'killer' of Grigri - an extremely unsuccessful belay device CAMP Matik

Everything said above about the inconvenience of ABD devices for belaying a leader fully applies to Active ABD devices.

By instantly blocking the rope, they do not give the belayer the opportunity to absorb the pull on the rope or control the fall of the leader.

ABD Edelrid Eddy belay / rappel device for single rope

Devices of the Active ABD category, due to their design features, provide maximum safety while climbing or rappelling.

Even if the belayer loses control over the lower end of the rope, the device works, blocking the rope, or ensures its safe braking.

In more than 30 years, there has not been a more successful product on the belay / rappel device market than Petzl Grigri

Undoubtedly the flagship of this category belongs to the Petzl Grigri - the undisputed leader in automatic belay / rappel devices since its introduction in 1991.

During the existence of Grigri, many successful and unsuccessful devices from various manufacturers have appeared. Many gear producers understood the full appeal of the concept - to create the safest belay / rappel device with an automatic rope locking function.

The first, handmade embodiment of the Grigri device concept at the Petzl museum

Like ATC devices, all ABD belay / rappel devices are very demanding on the diameter and condition of the rope.

Due to their listed features, Active ABD devices are not acceptable on the alpine climbing routes, but they are much more convenient and safe when used for top belay during rock climbing or industrial mountaineering.

To make it visible what you read above - examples of belay devices ATC, Passive ABD, Active ABD

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Concluding this review, I have to add only one thing - no matter what device you use for belay, safety does not depend on the device used, but solely on the qualifications and attention of the belayer - learn the correct belay technique is essential for the safw climbing!

The key aspect of climbing safety is proper belay technique and understanding of personal responsibility for the life and health of your partner.

Learning to belay is a key element of climbing training. Mallorca, MCS AlexClimb Climbing School

With the exception of some minor nuances, the belay technique does not change when using different devices - the belay (lower) end of the rope must be controlled 100% of the time, regardless of the type of belay device used - no automation will correct the consequences of the belayer's mistake.

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In this review, I deliberately did not say anything about devices that work exclusively for rappelling - gratings, retrams, paratroopers, etc. This category of devices was not touched upon, since they are not used either in mountaineering or rock climbing, as being intended exclusively for industrial purposes and speleology.

The author of the text and photos - Alex Trubachev
Your professional technical mountain guide

MCS EDIT 2023

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