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South Ushba

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Georgia, Svanetia.
Climbing South Ushba by Gabriel Khergiani route (5b Russian grade). Season: June - September (Best time - September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Caucasus Georgia Svanetia, climbing South Ushba" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Svanetia.

From the Svanetian Capital Mestia by the car you can get to Maseri village, then take the trail to the Ushba Base camp at the base of the wide moraine ridge - this place is called Gulskiy Bivouac. From "Gulskiy Bivouac" climb up the moraine, then cross Gul glacier above the icefall and come at the base of the wide snow gully at the base of the South Ridge of South Ushba. By the couloir climb 300 meters up. Then, climb 120 meters up by the system of rock shelves alternating with some hard sections - carefully, there are many loose rocks. Then - climb up the small but pretty hard wall (25m, IV +). Then - climb up the system of shelves and couluars before reaching the bridge over the South East Gendarme of South buttress of the South East crest of South Ushba. Then - by difficult, often ice-covered rocks climb 50 meters up (50 m, IV) and by gradually flattening rocks another 100 meters up to the good shelf. Further, by the smooth rocks of medium difficulty climb to the base of the first rock step. Bypass the vertical wall on the left. Then cross the lower part of the wide snow couloir (carefully, rockfall is possible), and climb the left hand side. Then climb out of the mouth of the gully, turn left and by smooth not steep rocks climb to the top of the South Crest of the South Ushba. Bivouac.

Climb 300 meters up along the crest to the base of the small wall (25m, IV-) climb it up to the shelf, and then climb again to the ridge. Along the ridge climb up to the base of the Summit rock bastion of South Ushba. By easy rocks climb the narrow shelf (25, III). Then, bypassing the overhanging part of the rock on the right, by the system of crevasses climb up to the base of the steep ice couloir - difficult climbing, belay using pitons (100 m, V-VI). Further, climb the couloir 100 meters up, then turn right, and continue climbing by icy rocks (III-IV) to enter the narrow summit ridge of South Ushba. Climb along the ridge about 500-600 meters up (carefully, snow cornices!!) and by easy rocks and snow climb to the Summit of South Ushba. At the Summit the danger of cornice is possible in the direction of the Saddle of Ushba. Descent by the Mazeri Notch route or by the route of ascent - the classic version of descent, as well as the entire lower part of the Gabriel route of South Ushba in recent years has become very dangerous due to frequent rockfalls.

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.