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Altay. Ak Oyuk

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Altai, Russia. Katunskie Belki
Climbing Mount Ak Oyuk (2a Russian grade). Season: June - September (Best time - July-September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Altai Russia, climbing Mount Ak Oyuk" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Altai.

Ak Oyuk - that is quite a nice mountain, and if your Altai schedule permits, you can climb on Ak Oyuk before climbing Belukha as an acclimatization. From upper part of Akkem lake turn right (if moving upwards) from the main trail and in 1.5-2 hours walk to the moraine plateau at the foot of mount Ak Oyuk. It is recommended to camp near the lake directly under the route.

There are two possible ways of climbing the Summit of Mount Ak Oyuk.

Variant 1 - 2a Russian grade. Recommended.

Walk around the lake and start climbing the scree slope of the North East Ridge of Ak Oyuk, in the direction of the most shallow part - your task is to get to the top of the ridge. After getting to the top of the ridge  follow it first up first by large rock slabs, then by snow. In some places belaying can be required - you can organize it using iceaxe, but in overall climbing the Ridge presents no difficulty. The final section before climbing the summit plateau - a steep snow fase at the top of the Ridge - where it is attached to the Summit of Ak Ouyk -  is to be climber directly up, medium difficulty climbing - 15-20 meters. After reaching the summit plateau - turn left and move towards the Summit of Ak Oyuk marked by cairn made of rocks. Descend the same way using one rappel from the summit to the flattening part of the ridge. Using ropes on that route is obligatory. Even if it is not needed on the Ridge, coming out from Ridge to the Summit would be very problematic without organized belaying.

Variant 2. 3b Russian grade, not recommended. Recently, it was many cases of ice avalanches on the Face of Ak Oyuk, the avalanches go just the line of this route - to attempt it means to play Russian roulette.

From the Camp at the foot of Ak Ouk start early, climbing up the glacier by not steep ice slopes, keeping away from the hanging seracs. Climb roped, in places it is necessary to organoze belay with icescrews. The lower part of the route requires many maneuvers between the seracs, the middle part can be climbed faster as it is flatter. When there is snow on the glacier - the avalanche danger is present. Navigation on the route is not very complicated - it follows the most gentle central part of the glacier. The upper part of the route, as you get closer to the Summit, is becoming more steep (50-60º), from that part you must be even more careful - the ice becomes loose, sometimes turns into firn (no use of icescrews - belay with snow stacks or iceaxe). The top part of the wall before getting to the Summit Plateau may be complicated by the snow cornice. The Real Summit of Ak Oyuk is located at the most distano part of the summit plateau, to which it is necessary to walk on snow 300-400 m - there is no more climbing - it is perfectly flat. From the bivouac on the lake, on average it take 4-6 hours to the Summiot of Ak Oyuk . The descent by the easier route - North East ridge (which is the recommended as the normal route of ascent of Ak Oyuk).

To climb Ak Oyuk is worth at least because of the fact that from its Summit there is most spectacular, fantastic panoramic view of Mount Belukha - the Pearl of Siberia. The better veiw point of Mount Belukha does not exist.

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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