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Pamir. Lenina Peak

PAMIR. Kyrgizia

On this page you can find the most up to date technical information on the different mountain routes which guided climb we can provide. These descriptions are based on the personal experience of our Guides and are not the subject of the absolute accuracy, the evaluation of the pitches difficulty can be subjective.

All the materials given on this page are private intellectual property and are supposed only for the fact-finding goals. Any commercial use or full or partial copying are possible only by written permission from the authors.

AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School is not responsible for any possible consequences of using the information given on this page.

Please Do Not Forget: Mountain climbing can be deadly dangerous not depending on how difficult is the route...
Climbing Peak Lenin, mountain climbing in Pamir

Peak Lenin, via Mount Razdelnaya, Classic

Altitude: 7134 m
Difficulty: 5A Russian Grade
Season: July-August
First ascent: V. Kovalev, 1954

Peak Lenin, via Mount Razdelnaya, V. Kovalev 1954, Classic

(Photo) Attention! Savage and disgusting attitude of many local agencies and individual climbers towards mountain ecology changes the classic route of Peak Lenin into total rubbish heap!! To change this situation somehow is possible only for us - please, regard attentively the problem of rubbish in the high mountain zone - don't aggravate the situation which is already terrible. Don't leave rubbish in the high camps, take it down with you, otherwise it will stay there forever! If possible, take your rubbish down so far as the Lukovaya Poliana place, even if it will cost some extra bucks for you...

The Classic Peak Lenin Route begins from the Base Camp located on the Lukovaya Poliana place. (3800 m). (Photo) To the Peak Lenin Base Camp you can get from Osh - the second big city in Kyrgizia after Bishkek, many Russian airlines do regular flights there from Moscow. From Osh it is 300 km by awful bumpy road (normally full day 4x4 drive). In the Soviet times the International Climbing Base Camp was located there but now there is nothing left from it. Instead of well organized and civilized structure in the past, know the place is occupied by many local agencies which offer such services as tent/camping/yurta accommodation, donkeys for moving loads, food and accommodation in the high camps. Prices are moderate, the quality and reliability are low. Frauds and thefts are normal things here because of the high popularity of the route - you should be very attentive to you property and never leave it alone. (Photo)

From the Lukovaya Poliana Base Camp walk up towards the Mountain by wide good trek, cross the Puteshestvennikov Pass (1,5-2 hours), (Photo) then, also by good trek traverse scree slope of a rocky range, descent to the canyon and cross the river. (Photo) For crossing the ford some kyrgizians offer their horses for some dollars, so you have a chance even to keep your feet dry. After the ford the trek goes up to the top of moraine and in 45-60 minutes you can reach the first camping sites. (Photo). Actually, the more civilized camps are located in the lower part of moraine. The site is called Camp I but actually it is a Base Camp as while climbing Peak Lenin you never will get down from it without any special need.

From the Camp I the marked trail leads to the steep and crevassed glacier step, the way which can be climbed normally is quite visible - just follow the trek. (Photo) In the steepest part, for crossing the snow bridges a rope would be useful, but if you can walk safely using crampons and ski poles, it is better to keep off using the rope to make the total load less as further on the route there will be no use of the ropes. After passing the steep part, the trek serpentines up the long flat glacier and leads to the second step of the glacier (5200 м), where turns to the right and goes straight to the site of the Camp II (5400) - scree slope of moderate steepness of the East Spur of Mount Razdelnaya. (Photo) The Camp site is disgusting - multiple platforms during the season are occupied by stationary tents, rockfall danger is present, all around is covered with litter left about and shited as well. (Photo) It is recommended to camp higher - there is a much better camp site on the top of the East Buttress of Mount Razdelnaya (5600 m) (Photo).

From the Camp II (5400 m) by quite steep trek (possible rockfall) get to the top of the East Buttress of Mount Razdelnaya (5600 m), from where by flat snow slope get to the base of the steep snow step (Фото) of Mount Razdelnaya. After snowfall - there is a danger of snow avalanche. By steep snow slope get 400 m up to the Camp III site (6100 m) (Photo) - the most cold and uncomfortable camping site of the Peak Lenin Classic Route.

From the Camp III (6100 m) the early start is recommended, as the next part of the route is exceptionally long. For those who climbed Elbrus it can be useful to compare the distance just multiplying the distance from Pryut 11 to the West Summit of Elbrus as minimum by two... So then, from Camp 6100 to the Summit of Peak Lenin it is very far indeed and it is the most serious danger of Peak Lenin - don't get deceived be the rumors - Peak Lenin is extremely tough and dangerous mountain!!!

From the Camp III descent to the saddle between Mount Razdelnaya and Peak Lenin Summit Crest (6000 m), then by the trek of moderate steepness (Photo) get to the Plateau 6400, where some possible camping sites are present but no chance to protect the camp against the wind - for camping this place is not good at all (Photo), to use the Razdelnaya Camp 6100 m is much more clever.

Further route is not complicated - it is very long ascent of flat slanting steps of the Summit Crest. The navigation on the route should be taken as the most serious and life saving technical element. The only place where the Crest becomes a bit steeper (20-25°) is called "The Knife" (Photo) - but this can become a problem only in case of open hard ice condition which is not typical for summer season.

The Summit of Peak Lenin - it is flat snow plateau, like all around except the Obelisk and some flags, treated by wind. (Photo).

You descent the same way. The distance from Camp III to Camp I normally is done in one day.

The variant of Peak Lenin climbing schedule successfully used by AlexClimb Mountain School.

Day 1 - getting to the Lukovaya Poliana Base Camp (3800 m)

Day 2 - getting to the Camp I (4300 m)

Day 3 - carrying loads to Camp II (5400 m), acclimatization, descent to Camp I

Day 4 - day off

Day 5 - walking up and overnight in the Camp I (5400 m)

Day 6 - walking up and placing the Camp III 6100 m, overnight

Day 7 - descent to the Camp I

Day 8 - day off

Day 9 - walking up and overnight in the Camp II (5400 m)

Day 10 - walking up and overnight in the Camp III (6100 m)

Day 11 - Summit Day, climbing the top of Peak Lenin (7134 m), descent and overnight in the Camp III 6100 m

Day 12 - descent to the Camp I

Additional info for the Peak Lenin route:

Photos from the Peak Lenin route

GPS coordinates (.wpt)

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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