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Pamir. Kommunizma Peak

PAMIR. Tadjikistan

On this page you can find the most up to date technical information on the different mountain routes which guided climb we can provide. These descriptions are based on the personal experience of our Guides and are not the subject of the absolute accuracy, the evaluation of the pitches difficulty can be subjective.

All the materials given on this page are private intellectual property and are supposed only for the fact-finding goals. Any commercial use or full or partial copying are possible only by written permission from the authors.

AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School is not responsible for any possible consequences of using the information given on this page.

Please Do Not Forget: Mountain climbing can be deadly dangerous not depending on how difficult is the route...
Climbing Peak Communism / Somoni, mountain climbing in Pamir

Peak Communism / Somoni, Borodkin Route, Classic

Altitude: 7495 m
Difficulty: 5A Russian Grade
Season: July-August
First ascent: Y. Borodkin, 1968

Peak Communism / Somoni, Borodkin Route via Peak Dushanbe, 5A Russian Grade, Y. Borodkin, 1968, Classic

The Peak Communism / Somoni route begins from the place called Poliana Moskvina where the Base Camp is located (4300 m). (Photo) To the BC you can get from Dushanbe (capital city of Tadjikistan) from where you get flight to Djirgital town (50 min) (Photo) or get a 4x4 car drive (8 hours), then you get helicopter flight to the Camp (30 min) or trek there (2-3 days). If you decide to accept the services of the local provider like (Alp-Navruz or Alp-Mashkov - the same people), get ready to be cheated - there were many cases of this. Anyway, the written agreement is essential with all the conditions clearly marked.

So then, from the Base Camp on Poliana Moskvina you follow the left side moraine marked trek which leads to the Helicopter place and then crosses the Glacier. After crossing glacier, walk towards the wide flat snow shelf, which connects from the left to Borodkin ridge. The middle and higher sections of this shelf which is called "The Snow Pillow" or "Snezhnaya Podushka" in Russian are dangerous because of the possible ice and snow avalanches. It is recommended to pass this part as fast as possible. For climbing the Borodkin ridge you have to climb short but quite steep rocky face, normally the fixed ropes can be used. The possible camping site is at the altitude of 5100 m. The route is marked with poles.

From the Camp I (5100 m) climb the moderate steepness slopes of "The Breasts" 6300 m (crevasses and avalanche danger), then descent to Pamir Firn Plateau where the Camp II (6100 m) is located.

From the Camp II cross the Plateau and traverse the slanting slopes of Peak Dushanbe to the Saddle between Peak Dushanbe and Summit Tower of Peak Communism / Somoni. On the Saddle the place for the Camp III (6900 m) is located. Besides, the camps can be installed from 6400 m to 6600 m.

From the Camp III, traverse the Saddle and get to the base of the steep snow ice slope of "The Shovel", by which climb up 400 m to the narrow Summit Crest, by which the Summit of Peak Communism / Somoni can be reached.

You descent the same way. Normally the descent the BC takes two days

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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