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Pamir. Peak Korzhenevskoy

PAMIR. Tadjikistan

On this page you can find the most up to date technical information on the different mountain routes which guided climb we can provide. These descriptions are based on the personal experience of our Guides and are not the subject of the absolute accuracy, the evaluation of the pitches difficulty can be subjective.

All the materials given on this page are private intellectual property and are supposed only for the fact-finding goals. Any commercial use or full or partial copying are possible only by written permission from the authors.

AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School is not responsible for any possible consequences of using the information given on this page.

Please Do Not Forget: Mountain climbing can be deadly dangerous not depending on how difficult is the route...
Climbing Peak Evgenii Korzhenevskoy, mountain climbing in Pamir

Peak Evgenii Korzhenevskoy, Southern Crest, Classic

Altitude: 7105 m
Difficulty: 5A Russian Grade
Season: July-August
First ascent: V. Tsetlin, 1966

Peak Evgenii Korzhenevskoy,
Southern Crest, 5A Russian Grade, V. Tsetlin 1966, Classic

The Peak Korzhenevskaya route begins from the place called Poliana Moskvina where the Base Camp is located (4300 m). (Photo) To the BC you can get from Dushanbe (capital city of Tadjikistan) from where you get flight to Djirgital town (50 min) (Photo) or get a 4x4 car drive (8 hours), then you get helicopter flight to the Camp (30 min) or trek there (2-3 days). If you decide to accept the services of the local provider like (Alp-Navruz or Alp-Mashkov - the same people), get ready to be cheated - there were many cases of this. Anyway, the written agreement is essential with all the conditions clearly marked.

So then, from the Base Camp on Poliana Moskvina you follow the marked trek which crosses a glacier, serpentines up to the small pass over the South Spur of Peak Korzhenevskaya, descends to the canyon, crosses small river below the end of another glacier and then climbs up the steep scree slope (40-60°, rockfall possibility) to the flat moraine where Camp I is located (5100 m). 6-8 hours from the Base Camp. (Photo) If you are fit and well acclimatized it is reasonable to continue ascent until another, better location for the Camp I (5300 m), for make shorter the next section of the Route (climbing to the Camp II 6100/6400 m) which is more tough.

The camping site 5300 m is more roomy and comfortable than the 5100 m site. Camp 5300 m is located on the both sides of the wide moraine at the bottom of the not steep glacier step to the third (upper) glacier plateau.

Then, getting to the top of the vast snow field of the glacier plateau, follow the trek (beware of crevasses) to the base of the South West Face of Peak Korzhenevskoy. (Photo) . Below the Face, under overhanging rock the intermediate Camp 5800 m, is located. Quite comfortable and protected place for 10 tents maximum. (Photo) From the 5800 site the long traverse begins (fixed ropes) which leads to the small saddle at the base of the South Summit Crest of Peak Korzhenevskaya (6100 m). Camping site is not good - very small and windy. Maximum 3 medium sized tents can be installed. (Photo) Much better camping site is located at the huge snow field at the altitude of 6400 m. To get there you have to climb short but difficult rock section (40 m 60-80°, III+, fixed ropes), and follow the not steep ridge to the Camp 6400 m. (Photo)

There are no technical complications nor fixed lines from the Camp II to the Summit - all the way up you walk the ridge using your iceaxe and skipoles (some short sections can be as steep as 50-60°), but mostly it is quite comfortable part presuming you are fit and acclimatized - the altitude is to be taken the most seriously here. (Photo) .

You descent the same way. The distance from Camp II to BC is done normally in one day.

The variant of Peak Korzhenevskaya climbing schedule successfully used by AlexClimb Mountain School.

Day 1 - getting to the Base Camp on the Poliana Moskvina place

Day 2 - acclimatization and placing the Camp I 5300 m, overnight

Day 3 - descent to the BC

Day 4 - day off

Day 5 - walking up and overnight in the Camp I 5300 m

Day 6 - climbing up and placing the Camp II 6400 m, overnight

Day 7 - descent to the BC

Day 8 - day off

Day 9 - day off

Day 10 - walking up and overnight in the Camp I 5300 m

Day 11 - climbing up and overnight in the Camp II 6300 m

Day 12 - Summit Day, descent and overnight in the Camp II 6300

Day 13 - descent to the BC

Additional info for the Peak Korzhenevskaya route:

Photos from the Peak Korzhenevskaya route

GPS coordinates (.wpt)

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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