Matterhorn. Lion Ridge

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Alps, Italy - Swiss.
Climbing Matterhorn Monte Cervino by classic route by Lion Ridge from Italy. Season: July - October (Best time - September - October)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Climbing in Alps, climbing Matterhorn" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Alps.

The Matterhorn (Monte Cervino) route begins from the Cervinia ski resort. To Cervinia you can get from Milan by long-distance bus or train - destination - Chatillion, from where to Cervinia goes the local bus. Also you can get to Cervinia by car using the motorway Turin-Aosta, turn to Cervinia in Chatillion, follow the signs.

From Cervinia in 2-3 hours the hotel climbing Abruzzi Hut can be reached by a dirt road. We do not have info on the cost of accommodation in the hut, as in the recent years, the hut was closed for repair reasons. Slightly above the Abruzzi Hut there are several small glacial lakes with trout - there many are excellent places for tents. But if you are going to use the hotel, you do not need to carry the camping gear.

From the Abruzzi Hut follow the trail towards the left side of Testa di Lione Massif. The route is well marked. By not steep rocks, the trail serpentines upstairs to the narrow steep couloir (10 m, 80°, easy rock), after climbing that couluar you get to the upper rock slope (20-30°), by which climb to the traverse of the Summit Tower of Testa di Lione (the distance from the hut is about  2- 3 hours). Then go right, traversing the shelfe at the base of Testa di Lione Summit (there is fixed rope), and climb to the Col di Lione Pass (about one hour). Actually, the ascention of Matterhorn begins from here.

Climb up broad rocky ridge to the Carrel hut, located at the altitude 3800m, which is well visible from the Pass. The rodge gradually becomes steeper and narrower, the first fixed ropes and belay chains appiar. Climbing in places is quite difficult. Belay on the stationary points. The upper part of the ridge to the Carrel hut is equipped by fixed ropes completely. The distance from the Testa di Lione Pass to Carrel hut is 2-3 hours. Warning! On this part of the route the rockfalls and avalanches are possible, it is better to climb it quickly.

In Carrel hut you can comfortably recover before climbing Matterhorn. The cost of the overnight stay is 15 Euro, there is a stationary gas stove in the hut, stationary radio station, lots of warm blankets.

On the next day, early in the morning (4-5 am) is recommended to start climbing the  Matterhorn route. The route is well equipped - all the difficult parts are equipped with chains, fixed ropes, ladders. But be careful not to overestimate your climbing abiliites - as everybody has different threshold of difficulty - may be that an unequipped section would be quite complicated to climb, especially in case of bad weather - which is very probable. Of the equipment it is necessary to have a set of short quickdraws, few long (1.5 m) slings, a set of nuts, few pitons, rock hammer and ice axe.

The route goes first traversing the left side of the ridge. The climbing is graduates from easy to medium complexity. After gettin 300m of altitude, we get to the beginning of a long chain hanging from the 70 meter vertical wall. At the base of the wall there are some memorial plates. The chain leads to the top of the ridge. Continue climb the medium difficulty rocks (45-60 °, there is almost no stationary points), and after 1.5-2 hours of climb get to the top of peak Tyndall - rock shoulder adjacent to the south side of the Matterhorn Summit Tower. The distance from the hut is 3-4 hours. The without altitude gain climb along a narrow rocky ridge of peak Tyndall (beware of snow cornices!) and get to the base of the Matterhorn Summit Tower. Between the Summit Massif of Matterhorn and peak Tyndall there is a gap of about 2-3 meters width and a depth of not less than a hundred meters. This place is called Enjambe and here it is necessary to jump. Belaying is organized at the fixed points. The first few pitches of Matterhorn Summit Tower are not particularly difficult, and usually that section you can climb simultaneously (50-70°).  There are some stationary belaying points, not as many. Further, the rock becomes steeper (90-100 °), climbing becomes difficult. The last 200 meters to the top are equipped by fixed ropes and ladder.

The Summit of Matterhorn is the end of the narrow rock ridge, divided into two Summits - Italian and Swiss, separated from each other by a not deep shallow part. There are stationary belaying points at the Summit of Matterhorn.

Descend the same route.

The main recommendation is: do not relax! Despite its popularity, the route is very long, quite difficult and dangerous. Do not get deceived by  the presence of the stationary belaying equipment on the Matterhorn route  - it is always safer to arrange independent belay than the use someone else's. The route is long enough - you need to climb as faster as possible. The average time of climbing the Matterhorn route from Italy - 6-8 hours from the Carrel hut to the Summit.

We wish you good luck and good weather!