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Southern Central Caucasus. Georgia, Svanetia. Tetnuld, 4920 m.

Altitude: 4920 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)
Duration: 10 days
Season: June - September
First climb:
Douglas Freshfeald, 1887
Program price from: 650 Euro

  • 12.07.20 - 18.07.20Regular 650 EURO booking
  • 07.09.20 - 12.09.20Regular 750 EURO booking

Classic climbs of Caucasus - climbing Tetnuld, 4920 m by the South West Crest - legendary climb of the world class!

Guided climb of Tetnuld - is the exclusive mountain program of MCS AlexClimb, one of the most interesting and beautiful programs.

Tetnuld, Tetnuldi, or, as jokingly Svanetians call that mountain "The Bride of Svanetia". The existing of Tetnuld clearly proves the fact, that Nature can create the most perfect geometrical forms not only in micro crystals but in the overwhelming mountains as well. Not depending from which side you look at Tetnuld - from every side it looks like a perfect pyramid with four distinctive sharp ridges. Tetnuld is located in the South spur of the famous Bezengi Wall and with a narrow bridge is connected to Mount Gestola in the Main Caucasian Mountain Range. During the times of USSR by that bridge there was a way to the base of Tetnuld route from Russia (4b Russian Grade), but now because of some geological changes - lowering and melting of Tetnuld glacier, that route is highly dangerous, and officially forbidden as is connected with crossing the Russian-Georgian border. From Georgia (Svanetia), there are two unbelievable beautiful routes to the top of Tetnuld, one of which, the Classic was climbed for the first time in 1887, in the year when the most famous European climbers conquered the most important mountains of the Main Caucasus. The first climb of Tetnuld was successfully done in 1887 by the Austrian team under the command of Douglas Freshfeald.

For today, climbing Tetnuld is quite interesting sportive ascent of moderate difficulty, more complicated than climbing Mount Layla, but much less difficult, than Ushba program or Shkhara program. Climbing Tetnuld can be recommended as medium link from the easy mountain programs for beginners to the next more technical level. The location of Tetnuld gives to the climbers the unique chance to enjoy all the power and magnificence of the famous mountains of Bezengi Wall, just to the opposite of which Tetnuld is located.

This 13-day program "Climbing Tetnuld, Georgia" is designed for people who have certain ideas about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of Tetnuld has not many particularly technical difficulties, but nevertheless requires a certain coherence, good physical form and possession of basic skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend the Course of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Course of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work. As for Kamchatka programs - in addition to our climbing safety issues, the armed ranger accompanies the group to protect participants from too close contact with the wild life.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb South Caucasus climbing schedule (Climbing Layla 2020, Georgia) 

Guided ascent of Tetnuld (4920 m) by South West Ridge, 2b Russian Grade
Moderate Climb, Advanced level

Day 1 - international flight to Tbilisi, hotel accommodation (***)
Day 2 - transfer to Mestia - capital town of Svanetia (7-8 hours, minibus), guest house accommodation
Day 3 - day off, sightseeing excursion in the Museum of Svanetian history in Mestia, overnight in the guest house
Day 4 - transfer to the beginning of the Tetnuld route (Adyshi village), walking up (4-6 hours, loads are carried by horses) and setting the Tetnuld Camp I (3200 m), overnight in the tents
Day 5 - walking and scrambling to the Tetnuld Plateau (4000 m) via Tetnuld Pass, setting the Tetnuld Camp II (4100 m), overnight in the tents
Day 6 - summit Day, Climbing Tetnuld Summit (4920 m) - descent to the Tetnuld Camp I, overnight in the tents
Day 7 - spare summit day
Day 8 - descent and overnight in the Camp I 3200m
Day 9 - descent to Adyshi (3 hours), transfer to Mestia, overnight in the guest house
Day 10 - transfer to Tbilisi, hotel accommodation

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Tetnuld 2020 Svanetia":

650 Euro * - group 5-8 participants
1200 Euro* - mini-group 3-4 participants
1950 Euro* - private program for 1-2 participants
* price per person

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Mount Layla or Kazbek is highly recommended before climbing Tetnuld, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Tbilisi), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Georgian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Tbilisi), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 8
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Georgia, check that in Georgian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Georgia. Climbing Tetnuld" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.