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Ushba

Climbing Ushba. South Caucasus. Georgia, Svanetia.

Warning! Today Ushba is on the absolute top of the list of the most dangerous peaks of Caucasus. With a very small number of climbing attempts every year people die and disappear trying to climb Ushba. Mostly this is due to the overestimating of their forces/experience and underestimating the seriousness of the climbing object. If you are going to try your chance with this mountain but do not want to pay a guide - consult with us - it's free.

In the frame of the project of MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing we offer to you the opportunity to climb Ushba with professional guides. Climbing Ushba is very difficult and dangerous, but real - on our account already is more than a dozen climbing  programs successfully conducted on North Ushba and South Ushba. Seasonality for this program - July - September, the first half of September - the best time for climbing Ushba. There are two options of the Ushba climbing program:

Climbing Ushba, Ushba North Summit from GeorgiaStandard. Climbing North Ushba (from Svaneti, Georgia)
North East ridge, 4a, classic of USSR mountaineering, the "easiest" route to the top of Ushba. The route starts from Georgia, historic route, which for the long time has been used to climb the North Ushba from Russia, this route exists no more due to geological changes of the area, intensive melting of the glacier, and as well the formal restrictions on access to the Ushba summit area from Russian side. Climbing the top of North Ushba - this is one of the most serious and interesting ascents which can be done in the Caucasus. Ushba - шы еру the legendary summit not only because of its beauty, but as well because of its inaccessibility and the top risk for climbing. The North Ridge route to the North Summit of Ushba - this is a classic of world mountaineering, moderately technically difficult route that requires the profound climbing experience, perseverance, patience and luck.

 

Climbing Ushba - South Summit from Svanetia, GeorgiaDifficult. South Ushba, by South Face, Gabriel Khergiani route, 5b Russian grade
. The most popular way to the South Summit of Ushba. Legend of the Caucasus mountain climbing, challenging and worthy climbing route to the Southern peak of Ushba, was climbed for the first time by one of the most courageous and talented Georgian mountaineers of the past - Gabriel Khergiani. Today, this route is still quite difficult to climb and the success is not given to everyone who is trying to climb the sheer verticals of the Queen of Caucasus - Ushba. The South Ushba route is long and very complicated, requires from climbers confident climbing skills both on the rocks, and on the mixed snow - ice terrain.

Ushba - the legend of the world mountaineering, the Queen of Caucasus

Ushba - the most beautiful, challenging mountain of Caucasus, the Queen, which is proudly reigning above of all the Main Caucasian Mountain Range. More than one hundred years history of climbing of this mountain has many heroic and dramatic episodes. All the history of the Russian and world mountain climbing is deeply connected with this strange name - Ushba, the name, which even local people - Svanetians, who live at foot of it, can not explain clearly...

The most popular for Russian climbers route to the North Summit of Ushba (4a Russian Grade) has been climbed via Ushba Icefall. Today that variant of approach is not possible anymore - there is no possible way to Ushba from the Russian side. Russia closed the border with Georgia and climbing Ushba became a serious crime. Besides of that Ushba Icefall, which gave the comparably easy way from Shkhelda valley to the Ushba Plateau - the base of North Ushba climb, has collapsed recently in its upper part and became nearly unclimbable and extremely dangerous. So surely we can say now - there is no more possible variants of approach to the Ushba routes from Russia. The alternative variant of approach to Ushba from Georgia (Svanetia) is a bit more complicated in organization, but easier technically, more safe and comfortable in aspect of loyalty of local people towards climbers and tourists - in contrast to Russia, in Georgia government is interested in tourism development.

The most climbable route to the South Summit of Ushba - Gabriel Khergiany route (5b Russian Grade) - is very logical and comparably safe alpine big wall route. Climbing South Ushba demands the highest level of physical form and serious climbing experience.

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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