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Mount Bzhedukh

North Central Caucasus. Russia. Kabardino-Balkaria. Climbing Peak Bzhedukh"

Altitude: 4280 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)

Duration: 7 days
Season: June - September
First climb: August, 1, 1903, L. Distel, F. Pfan, G. Leih
Program price from: 950 Euro

  • 30.06.20 - 10.07.20Mini group 4 pers, accl. not incl. 950 EURO booking

Climbing Peak Bzhedukh (4280 m) - the program of MCS AlexClimb mountaineering School.

Program "Mountain climbing in Adyl Su valley, climbing Peak Bzhedukh" is available on the reservation at least 90 day prior the trip - special permission needed for entering the border area.

One of the pearls of the Elbrus region in the North Caucasus (Russia) - Mount Bzhedukh - is located in the most beautiful part of the Main Caucasus, where the most famous and well-known peaks of this mountain system are concentrated - such as Elbrus, Ushba, Shkhelda, Donguzorun, Djan Tugan and Bashkara, Volnaya Ispania and Chatyn.

If you look from the Djan Tugan mountain climbing camp towards the Kashkatash glacier, you cannot fail to note the huge snow dome of the mountain, which looks like an elephant - this is exactly mount Bzhedukh. But, since there have never been elephants in the Elbrus region, the name of this mountain does not reflect this zoomorphic feature of its appearance.

There is no exact translation of the name Bzhedukh from the Balkar language, but this word is consonant with the meaning “Stolen Horn”. What this means is unknown to anyone, but perhaps somewhere there is an ancient legend about a clever mountaineer who stole a golden horn from some local deity or someone dangerous-horned.

From the mountaineering point of view, climbing mount Bzhedukh can be attributed to the average category of difficulty, a set of routes to this peak starts from category 2b Russian grade (Southeast ridge). Also of the climbable routes can be called the Western and Northern ridges - both routes are of category 3b Russian grade and have certain sports interest. For the first time, a man’s foot stepped on the snow dome of Mount Bzhedukh in 1903, when an Austrian mountaineering team led by L. Distel climbed the Northern Ridge.

Most of the routes to Mount Bzhedukh, including two routes of the category 4a Russian grade and one 5a route along the North-Western wall, were climbed for the first time during the peak of the Soviet mountaineering – in 1950-1970, due to the presence of developed mountaineering and tourist infrastructure in the Elbrus region.

From an aesthetic point of view, climbing Mount Bzhedukh is interesting as this mountain is located in close proximity to its famous neighbors - Ushba, Chatyn, Donguzorun and is an ideal view point with incredible views of the most dramatic peaks of the Caucasus. Climbing Mount Bzhedukh requires basic climbing skills of moving on the snow-ice and combined slope of moderate steep, confident handling of crampons and an ice ax, and the ability to climb roped with your partner. Also, to climb Mount Bzhedukh, a good physical condition and acclimatization for 4000 m are necessary.

This 7-day program "Mountain climbing in Elbrus region, climbing Peak Bzhedukh" was developed for the people who have some prior experience in mountain climbing and who want to try themselves at the technical mountain climbing route. It is highly recommended to take a course of acclimatization before participation in Bzhedukh climbing program - our program "Adyl Su acclimatization" is ideal from that pupose. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend passing the MCS AlexClimb Course of general physical preparation and  Course of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Russia climbing schedule, climbing Mount Bzhedukh via North Ridge 2020:

Climbing of Mount Bzhedukh via North Ridge 3b Russian Grade with MCS AlexClimb Guides

Program "Climbing Mount Bzhedukh" is available on the reservation at least 90 day prior the trip - special permission needed for entering the border area. 

Day 1 - arrival to Mineralnye Vody (Nalchik), transfer to Baksan Valley (minibus), hotel accommodation (B&B) 
Day 2 - breakfast, acclimatization walk along the Irik-chat gorge, descent to the hotel, dinner
Day 3 - breakfast, transfer to the Jan Tugan alpine camp 2200m, walking to the Camp I 3100m, at the foot of Germogenov peak, overnight in the tents.
Day 4 - breakfast, climbing moderate steep couluar to the level of 3800 m, setting up a camp II 3800 m at the foot of the Northern Ridge of Bzhedukh
Day 5 - climbing the summit of Bzhedukh 4280 m*, descent and overnight in tents in a camp II 3800 m
Day 6 - spare day
Day 7 - descent to the Djan Tugan climbing camp and transfer to the hotel

* In connection with the ban of the Russian authorities to climb the peaks of the GKH, we are obliged to complete the ascent to the peak of Bzhedukh at least 100 meters from the border line that runs along the peak.

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Mount Bzhedukh, season 2020":

950 Euro* - mini-group 3-4 participants
1400 Euro* - private program for 1-2 participants
* price per person

You have to be ready for: 

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program "Adyl Su akklimatization" is highly recommended before climbing Mount Bzhedukh, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Nalchik), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Russian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses** to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Nalchik), one day in Moscow if you have long transfer***, obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 4
Guides: 2

*AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can provide Russian Visa support for you. More information on request.
**AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book the flights for you.
***AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book hotel for you in Moscow and organize, transfers sightseeing and recreations according to your preferences - basic Moscow package cost is 270 Euro wich inclides pick up and drop off in the airport and one night in the Hotel 3*.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Caucasus. Russia. Climbing Mount Bzhedukh" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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