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North Ushba

Southern Central Caucasus. Georgia, Svanetia. North Ushba, 4694 m.

Altitude: 4694 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing

Duration: 15 days
Season: June - September
First climb:
John Garford Cokkin, 1888
Program price from: 2700 Euro

  • 01.09.21 - 15.09.21+ akkl, minigroup 2400 EURO booking

Southern Central Caucasus. Climbing North Ushba (4694 m). Classic climb of North Ushba (4694 m) by the North East Crest (4a Russian Grade)

Guided climb of Ushba - is the exclusive mountain program of MCS AlexClimb, the program which we run for more than 10 years.

If the place of birth of the technical mountain climbing is Matterhorn in the Alps, so concerning Russia it can be said without doubts that technical mountain climbing got its beginning on Mount Ushba in Caucasus. The majestic outline of this mountain fascinates, rivets your sight. The geometric accuracy of the forms and tremendous proportions of this world wide famous Caucasian mountain do not leave any place for doubt - here She is, The Queen of Caucasus, majestic, inaccessible, wilful and proud mountain - Ushba. Ascension of Ushba is difficult both technically and psychologically, the mountain gets on the climber, tries to break him down, to force him to give up before the Summit. It is impossible to tell, what the climber feels standing on the top, among the curling clouds, there, where two worlds are merging the reality and the eternity.

As Ushba is located in the South Spur of the Main Caucasian Mountain Range, by which the Russian - Georgian border is going, formally the climbing Ushba from the North is violating the Russian Law and, consequently, (in case of getting caught and inculpatory evidence) will be punished. AlexClimb do not organize any Ushba programs which are connected with crossing the Border, we respect the Law. On the other hand, climbing Ushba Plateau by Ushba Icefall is not possible anymore as the upper part of the Icefall has collapsed recently.

This 15-day program "Climbing North Ushba, Georgia, Svanetia" is designed for people who have no illisions about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of Ushba is technically difficult, requires a discipline, coherence, good physical form and possession of practiced skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend participation in the Cource of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Cours of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Alps climbing schedule (Climbing North Ushba 2021):

Guided ascent of Ushba (4480 m) by North Ridge from Georgia
Difficult Climb, Top level

Day 1 - international flight to Kutaisi, hotel accommodation (***)
Day 2 - transfer to Mestia - capital town of Svanetia (8 hours, minibus), guest house accommodation
Day 3 - transfer to the beginning of the Mount Ushba route (Becho village), walking up (4-6 hours) and setting the Ushba Camp I (3200 m), overnight in the tents
Day 4 - climbing the glacier to the Ushba Plateau (4100 m) via Ushba Pass, setting the Ushba Camp II (4100 m), overnight in the tents
Day 5 - Summit Day, Climbing Mount Ushba North Summit (4694 m) - descent to the Ushba Camp II, overnight in the tents
Day 6 - spare summit day
Day 7 - spare summit day
Day 8 - climbing down to the Ushba Pass and to the Glacier, descent to the Ushba Camp I, overnight in the tents
Day 9 - descent to Mestia (6-8 hours), overnight in the guest house
Day 10 - transfer to Kutaisi, hotel accommodation
Day 11 - return International Flight

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Caucasus, Georgia. Climbing North Ushba 2021":

From 2700 Euro - private program for 1 participant at the 1:2 guide/client ratio

The final cost of climbing Ushba depends on the following factors:

  • your actual mountaineering experience (the possible program format depends on this),
  • guide / client ratio - 1:1, 1:2, 2:1
  • the need for additional services (porters, cook),
  • dates of the program

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the high difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Mount Layla or Kazbek is highly recommended before climbing Ushba, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Tbilisi), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Georgian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Tbilisi), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 2
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Georgia, check that in Georgian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Georgia, Svanetia. Climbing Ushba" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.