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South Ushba

Southern Central Caucasus. Georgia, Svanetia. North Ushba, 4694 m.

Altitude: 4710 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing

Duration: 15 days
Season: June - September
First climb:
A. Shultze, 1903

Program price from: 1 Euro 

  • 20.09.21 - 30.09.21Price on request 0 booking

South Central Caucasus. Climbing South Ushba (4710 m) by Gabriel Khergiany route (5b Russian Grade), sightseeing excursions and trekking in Svanetia

Guided climb of Ushba -  exclusive mountain program of MCS AlexClimb, the program which we run for more than 10 years.

Svanetia. The history of this small mountain country on the south side of the Caucasian Mountain Range roots in the very ancient times. When on the flat places of the North Caucasus wild tribes of Huns raged and fought Scything people with their stone axes, the south side of Caucasus, where present-day Svanetia is located, went through the times of its prosperity, had highly developed culture and had the proud name - Free Svanetia. Now in every settlement, village or the tiniest hamlet of three houses and dozen people you can see the remnants of the glorious past of this country - plenty of ancient churches, towers, castles....

Very few people from outside come now to visit Svanetia because of its remoteness, lack of any kind of useful information and unstable political situation in Georgia. People there live the same way as their ancestors lived - high in the mountains, extremely poor, close to the meagre ground which gives them scanty sources for living. Svanetian people have one peculiarity which differs them from any other people. Normally the native mountain people do not climb the mountain higher than the level which is imposed on them by economic necessities. Climbing the mountain tops for Svanetians has far greater meaning than searching the new pastures and livelihood possibilities. The mountaineering is deep in the hearts of this people, which are tied indissolubly with the mountains of their Motherland... As well the history of Svanetia is tied indissolubly with one mountain, which majestic outline is difficult to confuse with any other mountain. As an impregnable bastion Ushba raises above the capital town of Svanetia - Mestia, and by its impregnability awakens courage in the hearts of the mountain hunters, and together with this courage - aspiration for the "feat of the height possession" - really rare quality among the people everywhere, but common for all Svanetia...

This 15-day program "Climbing South Ushba, Georgia, Svanetia" is designed for people who have no illisions about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of South Ushba is technically difficult, requires a discipline, coherence, good physical form and possession of practiced skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend the cycle of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Cours of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work. As for Kamchatka programs - in addition to our climbing safety issues, the armed ranger accompanies the group to protect participants from too close contact with the wild life.

Program Schedule

MCS AlexClimb Georgia Svanetia climbing schedule (climbing South Ushba 2021):

Guided ascent of South Ushba (4710 m) classic route, 5b Russian Grade
High Difficulty Climb, Top level

Day 1 - international flight to Tbilisi, hotel accommodation (***)
Day 2 - transfer to Mestia - capital town of Svanetia (10-12 hours, minibus), guest house accommodation
Day 3 - day off, sightseeing excursion in the historical Mestia neighborhood, overnight in the guest house
Day 4 - trekking to Chalaat glacier, brief instruction, working on the belaying skills and iceclimbing, return to Mestia, overnight in the guest house
Day 5 - day off, climb preparation, overnight in the guest house
Day 6 - transfer to the beginning of the South Ushba route (Gul village), walking up (4-6 hours, loads are carried by horses until the glacier) and setting the South Ushba Camp I (3200 m), overnight in the tents
Day 7 - Climbing the moderate difficulty rocks to the Crest of the South West Buttress of South Ushba. Setting the South Ushba Camp II 4300 m, overnight in the tents
Day 8 - Summit Day. Climbing the Summit of South Ushba (4710 m), descent to the South Ushba Camp II 4300 m, overnight in the tents
Day 9 - Descent to the Base camp, overnight in the tents
Day 10 - Spare Summit Day
Day 11 - Spare Summit Day
Day 12 - Return to Mestia, Guest House accommodation
Day 13 - day off, Visiting the Museum of Mikhail Khergiany, city tour
Day 14 - Transfer to Tbilisi, hotel accommodation
Day 15 - Return International Flight

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Caucasus, Georgia. Climbing South Ushba 2021":

the price details on request  - private program for 1-2 participants

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the high difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Mount Layla or Kazbek is highly recommended before climbing Ushba, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Tbilisi), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Georgian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Tbilisi), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 2
Guides: 2


*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Georgia, check that in Georgian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Georgia, Svanetia. Climbing Ushba" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.