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Elbrus East from East

Northern Central Caucasus. Russia. Kabardino-Balkaria.

Climbing East Elbrus (5621 m). Climb of East Summit (5621 m) from the East

Altitude: 5621 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Duration: 7 days
Season: June - September
First climb:
Chilar Khashirov
Program price from: 750 Euro

  • 08.06.24 - 13.06.24Standart, group 6 part. 70000 RUR booking

Classic climbs of Caucasus.
Climbing East Elbrus 5621 m.
Classic climb of East Summit of Elbrus by the East lava flood

The highest mountain in Europe - volcano Elbrus has two summits - Western and Eastern. Once, in the distant past, both peaks were part of one huge crater, towering at least 1000 meters above the current height of Elbrus. But several hundred thousand years ago, a powerful explosion destroyed the upper part of the Elbrus and formed the shape of the mountain that we are accustomed to observe today - gentle two-headed dome with a deep saddle between the peaks. The western peak of Elbrus (5642 m) is 21 meters higher than the Eastern (5621 m). This small difference in altitude is the reason that the majority of climbs of Elbrus takes place to its higher, Western peak, especially along the Southern route, which is quite crowded during the peak months of the season.

Attempts to climb the Eastern summit of Elbrus are not that numerous - this is the reason that the route to Elbrus from the east is still preserved in its original condition - without the intrusive service, cable cars and crowds of tourists.

Choosing from 4 classic options for climbing Mount Elbrus, you should consider the Eastern route as an option with low traffic, convenient approaches, the route which does not require such efforts in the organizing logistics, such as a route from the West, but at the same time combining all the features of a real, albeit not very log nor hard autonomous mountain expedition. The line of ascent to Elbrus from the east is the choice for true mountain lovers, for those who value pristine purity and tranquility in the mountains, the opportunity to be alone with the mountains and overcome real obstacles in an honest confrontation with the Mountain - from the foot to the very top.

The East side Elbrus route begins in the village of Elbrus, and goes through the Irik-Chat valley, over the Irik pass. Further, the route traverses the huge ice plateau Dzhinkau-Ginkez and goes to the lower part of the eastern crater of Elbrus (Horseshoe). From there, by low angled snow slopes, it goes to the Eastern peak of Elbrus. This version of the Elbrus climb does not involve overnights in huts and using the cable car - this positively affects the acclimatization and gives more pleasure from the climbing. Usually there are few people on this route (if anyone is there at all).

Important! In order to get maximum positive impressions of the Elbrus program, as well as to reduce the risk of harm to your health, we strongly recommend to add to the Elbrus climbing program the module acclimatization. MCS AlexClimb mountaineering school offers three modules of acclimatization, which can be added to any Elbrus climbing program:

Acclimatization program in Bezengi
Acclimatization program in Adyl Su

This program can be combined with the very interesting acclimatization part, which MCS AlexClimb run together with the best mountain climbing base camp in the Caucasus - Bezengi. In the beautiful Bezengi valley we prepare for the high altitude climb of Elbrus, we do iceclimbing and climb some easy mountain not far from the Camp. Also we trek to the base of the majestic Bezengi Wall - the most severe and cold glacier knot of Caucasus and from there we enjoy the outstanding views of the famous mountains of Caucasus - here are located 5 of the 7 fivethousanders of Caucasus - Shkhara, Dykh Tau, Koshtan Tau, Djangi Tau... .

This 5-day program "Climbing East Elbrus, Russia" is designed for people who have no prior experience in mountain climbing and who want to try themselves at mountain climbing. Climbing route of Elbrus is not very hard physically, does not require to overcome any technically difficult parts nor stay long in the high altitude conditions. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend the Course of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Course of Mountain Technique (basic level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work. As for Kamchatka programs - in addition to our climbing safety issues, the armed ranger accompanies the group to protect participants from too close contact with the wild life.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Elbrus Russia climbing schedule (Climbing East Elbrus from the East 2024):

Guided ascent of East Elbrus (5642 m) from the East, 2a Russian Grade
Easy сlimb, Basic level

Day 1 - arrive to MRV (options: NAL, OGZ), group transfer to the Baksan Valley (minibus), breakfast and lunch are not included in the program for this day, dinner in the hotel restaurant, accommodation in 2-3 bed rooms with private facilities
Day 2 - ascent to the Kashkatash glacier, working out the ice walking and ice climbing skills, descent to the hotel, breakfast and dinner in the restaurant, lunch - outdoor ration, overnight in the hotel
Day 3 - transfer to the VCSPS Pass trail, walking to the camping site 3200 m, setting up the tent camp, acclimatization walk to the VCSPS Pass 3700m. Breakfast in the restaurant, lunch and dinner - outdoor ration, overnight in the tents on the rocks
Day 4 - climbing the summit of Mount Kurmychi (partly scrambling, 4050 m), descent to the camp, rest, descent to valley and transfer to the hotel. Breakfast, lunch - outdoor ration, overnight in the hotel
Day 5 - walking up the Irik Chat valley, setting the Camp 1 2400 m. Breakfast in the restaurant, lunch and dinner - outdoor ration, overnight in the tents on the grass
Day 6 - walking up to the base of Irik Pass, setting the Camp 2 3300 m. Breakfast, lunch and dinner - outdoor ration, overnight in the tents on the rocks
Day 7 - climbing up the Irik Pass, traversing the flat glacier Jinkau Ginkez, setting the Camp 3 4300 m at the base of the East Crater of Elbrus (Horseshoe). Breakfast, lunch and dinner - outdoor ration, overnight in the tents on the rocks
Day 8 - summit day climbing the East summit of Elbrus, descent to the Camp 3 4300 m. Breakfast, lunch and dinner - outdoor ration, overnight in the tents on the rocks
Day 9 - spare Summit day
Day 10 - spare Summit day
Day 11 - descent to the Elbrus village, hotel accommodation, overnight in the hotel, breakfast and lunch outdoor ration, overnight in the hotel
Day 12 - transfer to MRV (NAL, OGZ), return domestic flight to Moscow

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing East Elbrus 2024 - standard route from East":

780 Euro* - standart group 5-10 participants
950 Euro* - mini-group 3-4 participants
2600 Euro - private program for 1-2 participants
* price per person

You have to be ready for: 

  • 4-5 days of camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: the passing of the acclimatization module and  Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended before the trip.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Mineralnye Vody, Nalchik), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Russian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses** to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Nalchik),
one day in Moscow if you have long transfer***, obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 12
Guides: 2

*AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can provide Russian Visa support for you. More information on request.
**AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book the flights for you.
***AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book hotel for you in Moscow and organize, transfers sightseeing and recreations according to your preferences - basic Moscow package cost is 270 Euro wich inclides pick up and drop off in the airport and one night in the Hotel 3*.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Russia. Climbing East Elbrus" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.