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Gestola from Svaneti

Georgia, climbing Gestola via Lyalver with acclimatization on Mount Koruldi"

Variation of the same Mount Gestola climbing route with approach from Russian Federation is here

Altitude: 4860 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)
Duration: 11 days
Season: July - September
Program price from: 1100 Euro

  • 19.07.20 - 29.07.20Standard group 1150 EURO booking

Mountain climbing program "Climbimg Gestola from South with acclimatization on the Koruldi peak" with MCS AlexClimb and Bezengi Guides

One of the oldest and most popular acclimatization and training programs of MCS AlexClimb Mountain climbing School which is perfect for most of the tasks associated with the need of fast and good acclimatization. The program is ideal preparation for climbing Elbrus, Kazbek, Ushba, Shkhara and Dykh Tau. In addition, by itself, this program is an independent route, which collects all the necessary elements of mountain climbing technique- the program includes two mountain ascents of initial level, two days are devoted to develop the skills of climbing on ice - this training takes place on the glacier Kashkatash, another day is dedicated to climbing on the equipped rockclimbing routes near the Gian Tugan Base Camp. This program is ideal for those who want to escape for a week from dusty metropolis and spend a week in the idyllic atmosphere of the mountain nature.

The climbing program "Climbing Gestola from Svaneti" is a mountaineering program of an average level of complexity combined with a pre-acclimatization module in the picturesque area of the Koruldi lakes and climbing the top of Koruldi - an easy to reach but fantastically beautiful viewpoint, from which one can get the crazy views of the southern faces of Ushba. It can be no exaggeration to say that the top of Koruldi is the best viewpoint on Ushba, and in addition, to the entire Svaneti Range with the Laila peak dominating over it. The short acclimatization module allows you to warm up a bit before the more intensive main part of the program, although it is not correct to talk about full acclimatization within a very compact module - you should not count on the full acclimatization in 2 days and one night stay. However, the further climbing schedule is rather smooth and does not present a problem for participants familiar with the height effect and having an adequate physical shape. The route of the ascent of Gestola from the south goes by the picturesque but extremely inaccessible canyon of Jabeshi and along the Zanner glacier before reaching the Zanner Pass, which is bordered with Russia.
The main peculiarity of this variant of the ascent route of Gestola is its extreme unpopularity, since all attempts to climb this peak, despite formal prohibitions and restrictions, are taking place on the part of Russia. The way from Georgia is a little-known and rather exotic version of the approach to the route, connected with overcoming, often, unforeseen obstacles and movement in the absence of a path and actual information about the state of the route. The section from above the Zanner Pass completely coincides with the line of the standard climbing route to the summit of Gestola - a steep climb along the rocky slope of the Lyalver peak is the most difficult technical part which requires accuracy in using the basic climbing techniques and belaying on the steep rocky terrain. On this site, we overcome rocks of II and III difficulty grades, often snow-covered, in addition, there is a danger of rockfall on that section of the route. Further progressing to the summit of Gestola is the climbing along the ice and snow slopes of easy and medium steepness, in ropes. This program is available for participants who have a general climbing experience and are ready for any unforeseen situations related to climbing by an extremely rarely visited route.

This 11-day program "Climbimg Gestola from South with acclimatization on the Koruldi peak" is designed for people who have prior experience in mountain climbing. This program includes ascensions of the basic level of Mount Koruldi as an acclimatization part; and Mount Gestola as a main climbimg object of the moderate difficulty level. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend the Course of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Course of Mountain Technique (basic level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Georgia Caucasus climbing schedule:

Climbing peak Gestola (4850 m) via Lyalver with Koruldi acclimatization, season 2021
Moderate difficulty Climb, Advanced level

Day 1  – arrival to Kutaisi, airport pick up, transfer to the hostel, overnight stay at the hostel, dinner
Day 2 
– 4x4 transfer directly to the Koruldi camping site, setting the tents. (7 hours), ), overnight in the tents on the grass, breakfast in the hostel, lunch in the restaurant on the way can be paid separately, dinner – outdoor ration
Day 3 
– climbing the top of Mount Koruldi 3700m, descent to Mestia, overnight in the Guest house, breakfast outdoor ration, dinner in the house, lunch can be paid separately in Mestia
Day 4  – 4x4 transfer to the beginning of the Gestola South route – Dzhabeshi village, climbing up the Zanner glacier and setting the Camp I 3200 m. Breakfast in the house, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared), overnight in tents on the grass
Day 5 
– climbing Zanner pass and setting the Camp II 3900 m. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared), overnight in tents on the snow
Day 6 
- climbing with all the gear the Summit of Lyalver (4350m) by the normal route from the North, climbing the ridge to the normal Gestola camping site 4300m, setting the Camp III. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared), overnight in tents on the snow
Day 7
- climbing Summit of Gestola (4850m), descent to the Camp III. Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 8 - spare day. Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 9
- spare day. Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 10 
– further descent the Zanner glacier, descent to the Dzhabeshi village, transfer to Mestia, accommodation in a private house. Breakfast and lunch outdoor rations (self-prepared), dinner in the house, overnight in the Guest house
Day 11 
- departure. Breakfast in the house, transfer to Kutaisi (additional night in Kutaisi is not included in the price of the program)

Prices and conditions

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

The price of the Gestola from Svaneti climbing program 2021 from: 1200 Euro

previous climbing experience, good physical form, the Brief MCS AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Kutaisi), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Georgian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Kutaisi), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 8
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Georgia, check that in the Georgian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Climbing Gestola from Svanetia with Koruldi peak acclimatization" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.