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Georgia, Svanetia. Tetnuld climb

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Georgia, Svanetia.
Climbing Tetnuld by South West ridge, classic route (former 2a Russian grade). Season: June - August (Best time - July-August)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Caucasus Georgia Svanetia, climbing Tetnuld" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Svanetia.

The Tetnuld climbing route begins from Svanetian village Adyshy, which can be reached from the "capital" of Svanetia - Mestia, 2-3 hour by very bad road (4x4, 6x6).

From the Adyshy village climb up by the left (in the direction of motion) slope of the valley, traversing the slopes covered with thick vegetation, go to alpine meadows above and move towards a noticeable rock bastion - southern spur of Tetnuld massif. The first night camping site is located on the large flat meadow, the altitude 3100m, with many traces of the previous camping sites. Distance from Adyshy - approximately 4-6 hours.

After spending one night start going up to the moraine on the left (in the direction of motion) of the bastion, and climb large scree slope to the bridge between the spur and the main body of the Tetnuld massif. There are many camping sites on the Bridge, but as much as possible you should climb up to the upper camping site located on the Saddle of the main Crest  - hence the access to the glacier is not difficult, the entire Tetnuld route is clearly visible. The upper part of the climb to the camping site - an easy scrambling, belaying usually is not required. The distance from the previous camping site is about  3-5 hours.

Summit day. Early start from the camp -  3-4 A.M. Cross the flat glacier (moving roped - many crevasses!) without gaining altitude approach to the rock step - the only access to the "Tetnuld Pillow" - the upper glacier flowing down from the South West crest of Tetnuld. This technical obstacle is not present in the old descriptions - it appeared relatively recently, as a result of melting and sinking of the main body of the glacier. Getting to the top of the rock step requires some effort - the rock height of about 60-70 meters, climbing is not really difficult, but you should be  careful - there are many loose rocks! Belaying is required, pitons. The climbing of that section requires 1.5 - 2 hours normally. Further, follow the gentle glacier on your right towards well discernible base of the South West ridge. After gaining the Ridge the route becomes quite obvious -  climb up the moderate, relatively narrow snow-ice ridge to the Summit of Tetnuld. Keep away from the edge of the ridge - danger - snow carnices! From the base of the Ridge to the Tetnuld summit it is approximately 2-4 hours. Belaying using the icescrews is required if there are ice-covered sections. The simultaneous movement while climbing the Ridge is recommended.

Descent by the same route, if necessary - rappelling, takes usually 2-3 hours to the camp on the Saddle. With adequate weather conditions and the physical condition of the group, it is better to continue the descent until the Camp 1 or to the Adyshy village.

We wish you Good luck and Good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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