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Huascaran Sur

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

South America, Andes, Cordillera Blanca, Peru, Ancash province.
Climbing Huascaran Sur, the Highest Mountain of Peru. Season: May - September (Best time - August - September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Andes Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Climbing Huascaran Sur" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Peruvian Andes.

Climbing route of Huascaran - the highest mountain in Peru, begins from the village Musho, which can be reached from the local center Huaraz by taxi or public transport. In Musho it is recommended to organize futher transportation of gear by donkeys to save strength for the upcoming climb of Huascaran.

By the well-trodden trail start going from Musho to Camp 1 which is located at the foot of Huascaran, on the altitude of 4400 meters. The distance from the Musho village to the first camp takes usually 4-5 hours. In the Camp 1 it is possible to organize the first overnight stop, but if having good acclimatization it is better to continue climbing to the next Moraine camp, located at the altitude 4800 meters. There is a well-equipped capital refuge, where you can spend the night in relative comfort.

After spending the night in the moraine camp continue to climb towards the top of the South Huascaran. Next available place for overnight, is located at the lower edge of the glacier at the altitude of 5400 meters. This camp can be used in case of lack of acclimatization or as a support camp for climbing Huascaran.

The next part of the route may present technical difficulties. You should start climbing as early as possible to have time to go through the most dangerous part of the route before the sun begins to warm and the slope will become dangerous because of avalanches - this is the main danger when climbing Huascaran. Climb the glacier roped, in the direction of the South Summit of Huascaran, maneuvering between the crevasses and steep ice walls. Depending on the state of the glacier, it is likely that you have to overcome short but quite steep ice steps, of avarage incline up to 60 ° - 70 °. Gradually taking to the left traverse as quickly as possible the slope of South Summit of Huascaran towards the Saddle of Huascaran. Here is the location of the last Huascaran camp, at the flan spase close to the huge crevass in the center of the Saddle - the altitude 5900 meters.

After spending the night at the Camp 5900, start climbing (roped) up the northern slope of the South Summit of Huascaran. The ascent is not steep, you should carefully choose the way because of the abundance of deep crevasses. Passing the upper part of the slope of average steepness, by flat glacier climb to the South Summit of Huascaran. Descend the same route, possible in 2 days. 

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.