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Dykh Tau, Classic route

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Russia.
Climbing Peak Dykh Tau, Bezengi (4b Russian grade). Season: June - September (Best time - July-September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Caucasus Russia, Classics of Bezengi - climbing Dykh Tau" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Bezengi region.

Dykh Tau classic routeAlthough tough and long, it is the easiest way to the Summit of the Second Highest mountain in Europe - Dykh Tau. This mountain is not very often climbed because of its high technical difficulty - two or three teams to the top per year. North Ridge as it is easiest route is always used for descent no matter which route was climbed up. This route is objectively dangerous.

From Bezengi BC follow the trek by the left side moraine towards the far away Bezengi wall. Trek is marked by cairns. After 1,5-2 hours turn right to the Glacier and by its middle part walk up for one more hour approximately. Look for the big spring going down from the right slope of the valley, this is the landmark. When you see the spring - turn left and climb the grassy bort of moraine. Then first by not steep grassy slope and higher - loosy and extremely shitty scree slope (danger of rockfall in upper part) walk directly up to to small saddle where the ridge turns to the left. Bivouac is on the South side of the Ridge. Space for tens is limited - 4-5 tents maximum. From Bezengi BC 5 - 6 hours.

From the Russian Bivouac look for the safest bridge to the glacier and carefully walk up (crevasses) turning slightly to the right (on your left you can see big rock with waterfall). be careful of the huge crevasses where the glacier is getting steeper. From here begins the most dangerous part of the route exposed to the rock and icefalls.

Climb the 12-15 pitches of moderate ice (30-40°) to the Saddle between South Ridge of Misses Tau and the beginning of the North Ridge of Dykh Tau. There are some possibilities for bivouac on the Saddle but it is better to continue the route to the Bivouac VCSPS, from which the Summit can be climbed. From the Saddle follow the wide and not very steep ridge for 8-10 pitches, (Photo) then it becomes steeper (to 60°). Depending on the season and weather it can be ice, packed or soft snow. Be careful of cornices and in some parts of avalanches.

Bivouac VCSPS is located behind huge rock at the altitude of 4800 m and is very exposed and uncomfortable place. (Photo) The space for tents is highly limited, only two small tents. On the next day continue climbing the ridge which is not very steep in total, but there are short sections of very narrow and steep snow/ice ridge. The crux is 10 meters high quite difficult rock (Photo) at the altitude of 5000 meters which can be climbed directly by the face or by its right side. From this rock there is long and narrow but not very difficult ridge which leads through some variation of snow and rocks to the Summit. From the Bivouac VCSPS 4-8 hours.

For climbing this route you'll need two 60 m ropes, crampons, helmets, long ice axes, technical ice axes, ice screws, pitons, rock hammer etc. Full set of technical climbing gear for long alpine mixed routes.

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.