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Altay. Belukha

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Altai, Russia. Katunskie Belki
Climbing Mount Belukha (3bRussian grade). Season: June - September (Best time - July-September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Altai Russia, climbing Mount Belukha" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Altai.

The route starts from Tungur village, which can be reached by bus from Gorno-Altaisk or by private car from Barnaul or Novosibirsk (the distance is about 1000 km, half way - by the dirt road). In Tungur it is possible to rent horses and in 2 days to get to the Akkem lake - the closest to Mount Belukha location accissible by any kind of transportation.

From Akkem lake follow up the trail that goes along the left (in the direction of motion) slope of the valley. Coming through the left moraine of the dry lake, turn right, towards the river, and keeping to the marked by cairns trail climb the Akkem glacier. Then continue walking on its central part. (distance from the camp on the Akkem lake - about 2-3 hours).

As the glacier turns left, cross the stream and bypassing the icefall, go to the left moraine. After the turn of the glacier move towards Tomsk bivouac located on the wide moraine below the upper glacier. Distance from the bivouac at Akkem - 6-8 hours. You can spend the night in the hut when it is not occupyed, or use one of the many well protected sites for the tents.

On the next day, early in the morning start moving up the glacier - climb glacier on its flat side on your left (in the direction of motion), and in 1-1.5 hours go to the base of Delone Pass North Face. By that Face which is quite steep (300m, 40º, belay on icescrews) go to the Saddle of Delone Pass (1.5-2 hours). During the Summer season, this part is often equipped by fixed ropes that does not exclude the necessity of belaying. Descending South from the Delone Pass, walk down to Mensu glacier (attention! crevasses!). Cross Mensu Glacier in the direction of the beginning of the snow slope of Berel Saddle Pass and by that snow slope climb towards the Berel Saddle Pass.

The Camp of Mount Belukha (3700 m) is located on the first flattening of the slope - a broad snow saddle to the right of the pass (the disnance from the Delone Pass is about 2-3 hours). As the climb to Belukha Summit from the Camp usually takes 6-8 hours, so that does not make much sense to set a Camp higher.

Start climbing Belukha is recommended early - not later than 3-4 am -  to have enough time to pass the lower part of the route by the hard packed snow - the lesser dander of crevasses. From the bivouac on the Berel Pass traverse up the easy slope - avalanche danger. After gaining 200 meters go to the turn of the glacier, turn right and continue walking towards the base of the Berel Ridge of Belukha. Walking on the glacier roped, there is a danger of falling into a crevasse.

Coming to the base of the ridge - arrange belay and start climbing the easy rocks of the ridge. Climbing the ridge (300 m, 45-60º, I-II, the rock may be icy, belay on pitons and slings), get to the wide snow shoulder. Climb by it another 150 meters without gaining altitude, then go up to the moderate snow slope (100 m, 50º, icescrews or iceaxe) of the Summit dome of Eastern Belukha. Climb Belukha Summit (beware of the snow carnice on your right!).

Descend the same way, at the normal rate it is possible to descent to the Akkem Lake in one day. Descent to Tungur village from Akkem camp takes not more than two days normally (50 km).

Good luck and weather to you!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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