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Alpamayo

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

South America, Andes, Cordillera Blanca, Peru, Ancash province.
Climbing Alpamayo, the Most Beautiful Mountain of the World. Season: May - September (Best time - August - September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Andes Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Climbing Alpamayo" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Peruvian Andes.

Climbing route of Alpamayo starts from the Kashapampa village - that place can be reached by taxi from Huaraz, or if you are comfident enough with Spanish - by public transportation. In Kashapampa you can arrange transportation of your gear by donkeys, that greatly helps in the upcoming ascent. The way from Kashapampa to the Alpamayo Base Camp usually takes 2 days. Higher than Alpamayo Base Camp donkeys will not go - after that camp you will have to carry all your stuff or hire porters.

From the Alpamayo Base Camp climb the widest trail through the relic forest to the top of the moraine, and further along the moraine up to the "huge polished rocks". By a good path for 3-4 hours you can reach the moraine camp, where you can spend the night, as the route on the next day will be not only heavy, but also quite difficult technically.

From the Alpamayo morain camp climb the rocks a bit up and turn right to the glacier, usually during the season, there is always a trail. Then, roped walk not steep the glacier, avoiding the steep sections and crevasses in the direction of the Saddle between Alpamayo and Kitaraju mountains. The last part of the way to that Saddle is a pretty steep ice slope (60º-70º), which can be climbed with belaying with the ice screws or (which is even better) with the snow stakes. The length of the steepest section is no more than 120-150 meters. After reaching the Alpanayo - Kitaraju Pass the Camp can be set directly on the Saddle, but as a rule, the majority of climbing groups continue to descend 250 meters down to the flat part of the glacier at the foot of Alpamayo - this is the traditional location for the last Alpamayo camp.

Now - lets tell about the technical part of the Alpamayo route. Previously, it was possible to climb Alpamayo by two standard routes - the simplest and most popular route was Ferrari route. But now this route is not used because of the high probability of the ice avalanch from the top - once that avalanch has claimed the lives of 20 people. The only route by which now you can climb Alpamayo without exposing yourself to the extreme risk - this is also a classic route of Alpamayo, but it is objectively more difficult then Ferrari route - Alpamayo French Direct route.

French Direct route of Alpamayo goes by the center of the West Face directly to the Summit, it's almost impossible to get lost there. The length of the route is about 400 meters at the bottom of the slope, after passing the bergshrund, it is about 60º, higher the slope becomes steeper, and the last 100 m to the Summit of Alpamayo can be called quite vertical. Belaying while climbing that route is organized usually using the snow stakes - using icescrews only is possible if there is a monolithic ice. The route is quite popular in the season and there can be found pretty much rappelling slings - they should be used with caution. Descend the route if ascent, the distance from the Alpamayo Base Camp to the Kashapampa village usually takes a single day. 

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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