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Tocllaraju

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

South America, Andes, Cordillera Blanca, Peru, Ancash province.
Climbing Tocllaraju by Normal Route. Season: May - September (Best time - August - September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Andes Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Climbing Tocllaraju" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Peruvian Andes.

The ice pyramid of Mount Tocllaraju is located in the uppermost part of the Ishinca valley, this Summit clearly dominates all adjacent mountains by its regular form, dazzling snow summit dome and the apparent complexity of the climbing routes to its Summit. In fact, Tocllaraju - that is very climable mountain, even for the people with the initial ice climbing skills and a well-conducted acclimatization the ascent of Tocllaraju does not present serious difficulties under normal conditions of weather and snow on the route.

The route begins from the Ishinka Base Camp, where you can get by trail from the Pashpa village to which it is possible to go by taxi from Huaraz. Distance from Pashpa to the Ishinca Base Camp usually takes 4-5 hours of peaceful walk. From the Ishinca camp go by the left (in the direction of motion) moraine pocket until the large rock from which a serpentine trail begins to the upper glacial plateau of Tocllaraju. Climb up 2-3 hours by not steep rocks, sometimes quite polished and slippery if wet, to the obvious saddle where begins the glacier Tocllaraju. Here it is possible to organize a night camp on the glacier or in the snow pocket at the baso of the rock bastion near the Saddle.

After spending the night on the Glacier camp, go futher roped, cross the glacier towards the base of the north-east ridge of Tocllaraju, at the junction of the glacier with the ridge there is a possible way to climb to the upper plateau of Tocllaraju -  narrow steep ice couloir in the middle of which there is a short 3-meter ice vertical wall, but as a whole climbing that couluar can not be called serious climbing obstacle. After climbing the ice gully, climb right to the ridge base and turn right towards the snow Dome of Tocllaraju. Climb the ridge for 300 meters up to the Summit - the top part is the average steep ice slope, the organization of belaying may be needed by iceaxe or snow stacks. Climbing the Summit of Tocllaraju on the left side of the ridge, keep away from the snow cornices, hanging to the side of the Ishinca valley. Descend the same route. For the descent it is recommended to organize several rappels. During the descent particular care should be exercized when crossing the glacier -  there is a lot of dangerous crevasses, especially when snow loses its night frozen condition.

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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