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Castor and Pollux

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Alps, Italy - Swiss.
Climbing Castor and Pollux. Season: July - October (Best time - September - October)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Climbing in Alps, climbing Castor and Pollux" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Alps.

The Castor - Pollux route begins from the Guide del Cervino mountain refuge - Testa Grigia.

The climbing route pf Pollux starts from the mountain refuge Testa Grigia, located at the last station of the cable car which is going up to the Monte Rosa massif from Italian resort Cervinia. Cervinia can be reached by car from Milan or Turin by the motorway Torino - Aosta (turn to Cervinia in Chatillon).

If the cable car is not running, start walking up by the dirt road in the direction of artificial lake Lago di Goillet, then along the road to the restaurant and then get to the hut via a gentle slope on the right - the route is well marked, in winter it is popular skiing route.

It is ecommended to stay for overnight at the Guide del Cervino Mountain Hut as early start is required for the safe climbing of the Castor and Pollux route.

Climbing Pollux.

From the Refugio Guide del Cervino Hut cross the Plateau Rosa glacier in the eastern direction. Move towards the Breithornpass (3,824 m) and pass along the south side of Breithorn, then accurately cross the glacier Ghiacciaio di Verra. Walk along the rock island with located on it Cesare e Giorgio Rossi Bivouac (3,750 m) and then move a bit to your - with a lot of caution in case of avalanche danger. Move on the glacier roped as there is a lot of crevasses on the glacier. Walk towards the narrow Saddle between the Castor and Pollux mountains. Ascent to Pollux begins that Saddle by climbing the steep rocky wall equipped with stationary chain for belaying. The climbing is not difficult. At the top of rock stp there is a
statue of Madonna - from it climb along the snow ridge about 150 meters of altitude to the Summit of Pollux. Distance from the Refugio del Guides del Cervino is about 3-4 hours. Descend the same route.

Climbing Castor.

Climbing route to the summit of Castor begins in the same place as the Pollux route  - Glacier Ghiacciaio di Verra. From the beginning of the Pollux route keep to the right and traverse the glacier to the base of the snow-ice slope adjacent to the top of Castor. That snow slope is to be climbed by its central part, maneuvering between numerous crevasses. The ascent is not steep, there is usually a well-marked trail. But you need to take special care in case of change of weather or poor visibility - there are no obvious landmarks on the Castor route and on the glacier. From the snow slope the trail leads to the rather narrow Summit ridge by which it is less than 300 meters climbing to the Summit. The belay using ice axe can be necessary.

Descend the same route, possible in one day. Particular care should be taken when walking down by the glacier in the afternoon, when the reliability of snow bridges is significantly reduced.

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.