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Dykh Tau West Ridge

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Russia.
Climbing Peak Dykh Tau via West Ridge, Bezengi (4b Russian grade). Season: June - September (Best time - July-September)

From Bezengi BC follow the trek by the left side moraine towards the far away Bezengi wall. Trek is marked by cairns. After 1,5-2 hours turn right to the Glacier and by its middle part walk up for one more hour approximately. Look for the big spring going down from the right slope of the valley, this is the landmark. When you see the spring - turn left and climb the grassy bort of moraine. Then first by not steep grassy slope and higher - loosy and extremely shitty scree slope (danger of rockfall in upper part) walk directly up to to small saddle where the ridge turns to the left. Bivouac is on the South side of the Ridge. Space for tens is limited - 4-5 tents maximum. From Bezengi BC 5 - 6 hours.

On the second day, after spending the night at the Russian Bivouac, go down to the Dykh Tau glacier and cross it (beware of crevasses). Further climb up the left branch of the Dykh Tau glacier, keeping to its right side. Climb up from the glacier the steep snow slope, and cross it to the right under the ice seracs. Get to the West Ridge by the not steep firn slope of 40 - 45°. This area should be passed as soon as possible because of the high avalanche danger.

Convenient location for overnight stay is at the base of the ridge. Water can be sought on the south side to the ridge. Also you can climb futher by the rock ridge. Climbing is not difficult, rock bastions should be climbed in the front. The biggest rock can be climbed by its left side, belay using the pitons and slings. After reaching the snow bridge, the organization of the overnight camp is possible, water only from snow.

The next day (the third day of climbing Dykh Tau) climb up further along the ridge, which is passing gradually into a large-block rock face. At the top end of the ridge at the base of the face there is a place where it is possible to spend the night. Furthermore, from this point, if necessary, you can change the route  to the North ridge which is comparably easy reached from this spot.

Dykh Tau West Ridge route goes further up the avarage difficul rock face. Climb 60-70 meters up by the rock buttress separating two broad gullies. Next, go by the narrow ledge to the right, into the gully. Climb up the gully which soon becomes a vertical chimney, blocked at the upper part by the rock. The chimney sides can be covered with ice. Climbing of the chimney is of the medium difficulty, with belay using the pitons. In the middle of the chimney there is a place for the organization of the belaying station. Upper rock blocking the exit from the chimney should be clmbed over the left side. Next, climb up 300 meters by the easy rocks - that is possible to move to the gully - there may be ice, convenient for the organization of ice screws belay. At the top of the gully you reach the North Ridge of Dykh Tau, where it is possible to spend the night - hence it is only 2-3.5 hours of ascent to the Summit.

The futher route follows the North Ridge  to the Summit of Dykh Tau - you should be wary of the carnices on the left side. The hardest, crux part of the Ridge is the triangular rock bastion - it can be climbed right in front (belay on the piutons) also you can get left to the narrow ice couloir - using the ice screws for belaying.

Descent is easier via the North Ridge. After spending the night at the bivouac, start the descent as early as possible to have enough time to go through the most dangerous lower part of the route before the rockfall (descent from the snow bridge between Dykh Tau and Misses Tau). Depending on the route conditions, weather and physical condition of the group, you can continue the descent without spending the night at the "Russian bivouac" - in this case after 3-4 hours you can drink tea in the hospitable dining hall of the Bezengi Base Camp. The duration of the Dykh Tau West Ridge route is 4-5 days.

Good luck and weather!

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AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.