Dykh Tau West Ridge

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Russia.
Climbing Peak Dykh Tau via West Ridge, Bezengi (4b Russian grade). Season: June - September (Best time - July-September)

From Bezengi BC follow the trek by the left side moraine towards the far away Bezengi wall. Trek is marked by cairns. After 1,5-2 hours turn right to the Glacier and by its middle part walk up for one more hour approximately. Look for the big spring going down from the right slope of the valley, this is the landmark. When you see the spring - turn left and climb the grassy bort of moraine. Then first by not steep grassy slope and higher - loosy and extremely shitty scree slope (danger of rockfall in upper part) walk directly up to to small saddle where the ridge turns to the left. Bivouac is on the South side of the Ridge. Space for tens is limited - 4-5 tents maximum. From Bezengi BC 5 - 6 hours.

On the second day, after spending the night at the Russian Bivouac, go down to the Dykh Tau glacier and cross it (beware of crevasses). Further climb up the left branch of the Dykh Tau glacier, keeping to its right side. Climb up from the glacier the steep snow slope, and cross it to the right under the ice seracs. Get to the West Ridge by the not steep firn slope of 40 - 45°. This area should be passed as soon as possible because of the high avalanche danger.

Convenient location for overnight stay is at the base of the ridge. Water can be sought on the south side to the ridge. Also you can climb futher by the rock ridge. Climbing is not difficult, rock bastions should be climbed in the front. The biggest rock can be climbed by its left side, belay using the pitons and slings. After reaching the snow bridge, the organization of the overnight camp is possible, water only from snow.

The next day (the third day of climbing Dykh Tau) climb up further along the ridge, which is passing gradually into a large-block rock face. At the top end of the ridge at the base of the face there is a place where it is possible to spend the night. Furthermore, from this point, if necessary, you can change the route  to the North ridge which is comparably easy reached from this spot.

Dykh Tau West Ridge route goes further up the avarage difficul rock face. Climb 60-70 meters up by the rock buttress separating two broad gullies. Next, go by the narrow ledge to the right, into the gully. Climb up the gully which soon becomes a vertical chimney, blocked at the upper part by the rock. The chimney sides can be covered with ice. Climbing of the chimney is of the medium difficulty, with belay using the pitons. In the middle of the chimney there is a place for the organization of the belaying station. Upper rock blocking the exit from the chimney should be clmbed over the left side. Next, climb up 300 meters by the easy rocks - that is possible to move to the gully - there may be ice, convenient for the organization of ice screws belay. At the top of the gully you reach the North Ridge of Dykh Tau, where it is possible to spend the night - hence it is only 2-3.5 hours of ascent to the Summit.

The futher route follows the North Ridge  to the Summit of Dykh Tau - you should be wary of the carnices on the left side. The hardest, crux part of the Ridge is the triangular rock bastion - it can be climbed right in front (belay on the piutons) also you can get left to the narrow ice couloir - using the ice screws for belaying.

Descent is easier via the North Ridge. After spending the night at the bivouac, start the descent as early as possible to have enough time to go through the most dangerous lower part of the route before the rockfall (descent from the snow bridge between Dykh Tau and Misses Tau). Depending on the route conditions, weather and physical condition of the group, you can continue the descent without spending the night at the "Russian bivouac" - in this case after 3-4 hours you can drink tea in the hospitable dining hall of the Bezengi Base Camp. The duration of the Dykh Tau West Ridge route is 4-5 days.

Good luck and weather!