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Huascaran South climbing

Andes. Peru. Ancash. Exclusive mountain climbing program of MCS AlexClimb "Climbing Huascaran Sur, 6746m"

Altitude: 6746 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)

Duration: 9 days
Season: May - September
First climb:
Annie Peck, 1908
Program price from: 900 Euro

  • 14.05.22 - 22.05.22mini group, special conditions 850 EURO booking

Exclusive mountain climbing program "Climbing Huascaran Sur" with MCS AlexClimb Guides

Enjoying the views of Cordillera Blanca from the traditionally flat roof of an hotel in Peruvian town Huaraz, it is difficult to mistake which mountain is the most important here. Two Summit dome of Huascaran proudly dominate the neighboring mountains which are not at all small. Sun, getting up from the soft cradle of Amazon selva, lightly touches the snow wight tops of Huascaran and inflame there the crimson fire long before the other mountains shake off the sleepy shroud of ice numbness. On the sunset, Huascaran is the last mountain which bade farewell to the Sun which is solemnly lowering down behind the black range of Cordillera Negra into the deeps of Pacific.

Huascaran climb is not overcomplicated with serious technical obstacles but the altitude and some route sections which require using the advanced climbing skills make normal route of Huascaran interesting even for professional climbers. The altitude on Huascaran (which is common for equatorial latitudes), is comparably easier than in more northern or southern latitudes, which makes climbing Huascaran possible for climbers without profound altitude experience. But, nevertheless, for attempting the highest mountain of Peru - Huascaran the good acclimatization is necessary as well as confident iceclimbing and snow belaying skills.

The normal climbing route of Huascaran begins in the Indian village Moshi, from where it is 4-6 hours to the Base Camp of Huascaran 4500 m. All the loads to the BC are delivered by mules or donkeys. After (or instead of) the overnight in the Huascaran BC we follow the hardly visible trek by flat granite slopes to the next camping ground (Moraine Camp, 4800 m), where stationary climbing shelter Don Bosco is located. Some parts of the trek are quite tricky and trekking can get as difficult as scrambling, but the rope normally is used here only in case of wet and slippery rocks. From Huascaran BC to the Moraine Camp it is 3-4 hours walk, normally in good conditions the way from Moshi to the Moraine Camp is done in one day. Don Bosco shelter (4800 m), is two stores fundamental stone building, where one can spent a night in comparably comfortable although quite cold conditions. Next Camp is normally organized on the glacier at the foot of the steep part of the route which leads to the Saddle of Huascaran, at the altitude of 5400. The last (Storm) Camp 5900 m, is set on the Saddle. If all the participants are well acclimatized and fit, the Camp 5400 can be omitted, which will save time and strength, as one extra night on the snow tires the climbers. The part of the Huascaran route between 5400 and 6000 is complicated with some quite steep ice sections (70°-80°) and is dangerous because of frequent ice and snow avalanches. The way to the South Summit of Huascaran from the Saddle is not technically complicated.

This 9-day program "Mountain climbing in Cordillera Blanca, Peru, climbing Husacaran Sur" is designed for people who have prior experience in mountain climbing and who want to try themselves at technical mountain climbing route. That is highly recommended to attach to the Huascaran Sur climbing program the acclimatization part - climbing easier mountains as Ishinca, Urus or Tocllaraju. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend passing the MCS AlexClimb Course of general physical preparation and  Course of Mountain Technique (basic level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb South America Andes climbing schedule (Climbing Huascaran 2022):

Guided ascent of Huascaran Sur (6746 m) Classic route
Difficult Climb, Advanced level

Day 1 - Transfer by car to Moshi village, trekking up to Huascaran BC (4200 m), loads delivered by donkeys
Day 2 - Getting up to the Moraine Camp (4800 m), overnight in the Don Bosco shelter
Day 3 - Climbing up and setting the Camp 1 (5400 m), overnight in the tents
Day 4 - Climbing up and setting the Storm Camp (5900 m), overnight in the tents
Day 5 - Summit Day, climbing the South Summit of Huascaran (6746 m), descent to the Storm Camp, overnight in the tents
Day 6 - Spare day
Day 7 - Spare day
Day 8 - Descent to the Moraine Camp (4800 m), overnight in the Don Bosco shelter
Day 9 - Descent to Moshi, return to Huaraz, hostel accommodation

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Huascaran 2022":

900 Euro* - standart group 5-10 participants
1350 Euro* - mini-group 3-4 participants
1600 Euro* - private program for 1-2 participants
Price per person

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Ishinca, Urus or Tocllaraju are highly recommended before climbing Huascaran, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, porters and cook services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Huaraz), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Peruvian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Huaraz), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 4
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Peru, check that in Peruvian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Andes. Peru. Climbing Huascaran Sur" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.