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Toclaraju - Alpamayo climbing

Andes. Peru. Ancash. Exclusive mountain climbing program of MCS AlexClimb "Climbing Tocllaraju and Alpamayo"

Altitude: 6032 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: high (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)

Duration: 12 days
Season: May - September
Program price from: 1500 Euro

  • 03.09.20 - 15.09.20mini group, special conditions 2200 EURO booking

Exclusive mountain climbing program "Climbing Tocllaraju and Alpamayo" with MCS AlexClimb Guides

The combination of the two status, technically challenging climbs - climbing Tocllaraju - mountaineering training route of the average level of difficulty to the Summit over 6000 meters, and an unique climbing route of the most beautiful mountain in the world - Alpamayo. Both climbing programs are categorized as technical routes of the ice-class - this category involves overcoming quite serious obstacles in the harsh alpine conditions. Climbing route of Tocllaraju can be as classic, the technical part of which is limited by the Tocllaraju Summit tower, and also the more complex route - depending on the condition of the route and the level of technical preparation of the group - the more serious version of the ascent route to the Summit of Tocllaraju - The West Face. Climbing Tocllaraju in this program serves as a training climb, which is technically easier than the main ascent of Alpamayo, but heavy enough physically to ensure the necessary level of acclimatization. After climbing Tocllaraju, participants acquire the necessary skills for the main climb of Alpamayo, by the center route of the West Face, the most difficult, but at the same time, the safer route to the Summit of "The most beautiful mountain in the world." Climbing route of Alpamayo is not much more difficult technically than the Tocllaraju route - but because of the greater length it requires from the participants a good acclimatization and confident technique of climbing the almost vertical ice. We combined the two mountains into a single program - climbing Tocllaraju and climbing Alpamayo because of their technical similarities, but it is necessary to emphasize that these mountains are quite different in character, and climbing them both gives climbers completely different emotions - because of this, this program was very comprehensive and most fully conveys the general nature of mountaineering programs in the incredible fantasy world of shining mountains of South America!

This 12-day program "Mountain climbing in Cordillera Blanca, Peru, climbing Tocllaraju and Alpamayo" is designed for people who have prior experience in mountain climbing and who want to try themselves at technical mountain climbing route. That is highly recommended to attach to the Tocllaraju and Alpamayo climbing program the acclimatization part - climbing easier mountains as Ishinca, Urus. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend passing the MCS AlexClimb  Course of general physical preparation and  Course of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb South America Andes climbing schedule (Climbing Tocllaraju and Alpamayo 2020)

Guided ascent of Tocllaraju and Alpamayo
Difficult Climb, Advanced level

Day 1 - Transfer by car to Pashpa, trekking to the Ishinca BC (4300 m) the loads are delivered by donkeys. Overnight in the tents
Day 2 - Setting the High Camp at 5400 m on the glacier at the foot of Tocllaraju, overnight in the tents
Day 3 - Climbing Tocllaraju (6034 m), descent to BC, overnight in the tents
Day 4 - Spare day
Day 5 - Return to Huaraz, hotel accommodation
Day 6 - Day off, hot sources
Day 7 - Transfer from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2900 m) with sightseeing in the Yungay Memorial, trekking up the Santa Cruz valley to the Llama Corral camping ground (3760 m). Loads are delivered by donkeys. Overnight in the tents
Day 8 - Trekking up the Santa Cruz valley to the Alpamayo BC (4550 m) by the Laguna Aruyercocha. Loads are delivered by donkeys. Overnight in the tents
Day 9 - Climbing the Alpamayo-Qitaraju Pass (5400 m) and setting the Storm Camp. Overnight in the tents
Day 10 - Summit day, climbing Alpamayo (5947 m) by the center of West Face. (the route choice depends on the snow/ice situation and face condition). Descent to the Storm Camp. Overnight in the tents
Day 11 - Descent to the Alpamayo BC. Overnight in the tents
Day 12 - Return to Huaraz, hostel accommodation

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Tocllaraju and Alpamayo 2020":

1500 Euro* - mini-group 3-4 participants
2300 Euro* - private program for 1-2 participants
Price per person

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Ishinca, Urus are highly recommended before climbing Tocllaraju, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, porters and cook services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Huaraz), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Peruvian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Limai), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 4
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Peru, check that in Peruvian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Andes. Peru. Climbing Tocllaraju" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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