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Climbing Vallunaraju

Andes. Peru. Ancash. Exclusive mountain climbing program of MCS AlexClimb "Climbing Tocllaraju, 6032m"

Altitude: 5686 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing

Duration: 3 days
Season: May - September
First climb: West Ridge, 1949, married couple A. and M. Szepessy, skiing
Program price from: 650 Euro

Exclusive mountain climbing program "Climbing Vallunaraju Normal route" with MCS AlexClimb Guides

Whatever the purpose of your visit to Huaraz, the beauty of the surrounding mountains will not leave you indifferent. At sunset, the snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, crowned with the incredible ice dome of Nevado Huascaran, glow with crimson fire. This spectacle is accessible from anywhere in Huaraz, but the Ratakena viewpoint is the best place to enjoy this incredible beauty.

Effective acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca - climbing Nevado Vallunaraju
Effective acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca - climbing Nevado Vallunaraju

The two-headed snowy peak, literally “hanging” over the town, definitely will draw your attention. It seems completely unreal and inaccessible, despite its deceptive proximity.


This mountain is Nevado Vallunaraju, which name can be translated from Quechua in rather strange mode - “mountain with cut off ears” Few people know that there is a relatively simple way to the top of this mountain, which, with some effort and skill, can be done in just 2 days.

Effective acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca - climbing Nevado Vallunaraju
Effective acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca - climbing Nevado Vallunaraju

Nevado Vallunaraju is located at the western end of the short spur of the Cordillera Blanca (at the beginning of the same spur, closer to the main ridge Nevado Ranrapalca is located), Vallunaraju closes the spur from the west, from the side of Huaraz. Along the ridgeline, Vallunaraju and Ranrapalca are separated by a distance of less than 5 km.

Effective acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca - climbing Nevado Vallunaraju
Effective acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca - climbing Nevado Vallunaraju

Vallunaraju is another excellent active acclimatization object that I have added to my collection in this season. The route combines quite convenient access from Huaraz, a simple set of technical obstacles and a summit altitude very acceptable for acclimatization. Skiing up to the top may be an option - if you have gear and skills good enough to pass around all the crevasses on the glacier.


This 3-day program "Acclimatization in Cordillera Blanca, Peru, climbing Nevado Vallunaraju" is for the people who have small prior experience in mountain climbing or need to prepare for more serious ascents in Peru such as Huascaran or Alpamayo. Can be considered as the main part of the climbing plan - in that case it is recommended to add easier mountains as Ishinca, Urus as preliminary acclimatization. 

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb South America Andes climbing schedule:

Guided ascent of Nevado Vallunaraju (5686 m) 
Easy Climb, Basic+ level

Day 1 - Transfer from Huaraz to . Overnight in the tents
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 8 - Return to Huaraz, hostel accommodation

Prices and conditions

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the basic+ difficulty. The physical load level is high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 10-15 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -10°C on the altitude higher than 4000 m;

The price of the Vallunaraju climbing program from: 650 Euro

good physical shape. Acclimatization program on Ishinca, Urus or Tocllaraju are recommended before climbing Nevado Vallunaraju, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The cost includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Huaraz), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Peruvian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Huaraz), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 6
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Peru, check that in Peruvian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Andes. Peru. Climbing Alpamayo" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.