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- Modern futures of russian mountain climbing - paradox
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- Crimea winter Rockclimbing
- Elbrus. Interview with rescuer
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- Khan Tnegri from the North
- International Ushba climb 2002
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- The Mystry of the dissappering of Dyatlov group
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Modern futures of russian mountain climbing - paradox
Specialities of mountain climbing in Russian Federation - Paradox 2021
The Author who is not afraid to translate his point of view Alex Trubachev
Climbing Mount Ararat and Mount Gestola
This is not the first time I have raised the topic of senseless prohibitions in Russia. However, to draw conclusions is everyones right, although I do not impose my point of view on anyone - if you think that everything is fine - this is your constitutional right.
Any action associated with the spending of energy and resources must have some goal, the value of which must justify the costs of its achieving. Maybe I think in already outdated patterns and cannot accept modern twists of logic? Many things in the modern Russian realities confirms this idea, there is no need to list them...
But what, to be silent and just look at what is happening?! Or, nevertheless, try to reason at least. It seems that yet there was not any official ban on the reasoning?
Many peaks of Caucasus have their own history intertwined with human deeds, exploits, events and achievements. Each peak is unique in its own way, there are no two similar mountains... Nevertheless, in the text below I will try to compare two completely different mountains, around which, today, a similar situation has developed... Similar, but not exactly identical. So, what is the connection between Mount Ararat and Mount Gestola?
Like the most significant peaks, both of these mountains are located on the border. That is quite understandable, because from the ancient times, the territories between countries were divided according to the natural relief forms that made it difficult cross - along rivers, lakes, mountain ranges. Ideally the borders were set by the mountain ranges - because the mountains are very serious natural obstacle, a large natural fence.
Mount Ararat - biblical peak, mentioned in various scriptures and tightly connected with whole history of our civilization. In addition, this is a very important mountain for the people of Armenia - all the folklore, art of Armenian authors gets inspiration from this fantastic mountain soaring in the sky, formely located on the territory of Armenia, but now totally inaccessible. This inaccessibility - the great pain of all the Armenian people, a constant reminder of the numerous national tragedies of the last century. The fact is that today Ararat is located in Turkey.
And, although whole Ararat massif is perfectly visible from Yerevan, getting to it from Armenia is almost the same as to craters on the moon. It is impossible to get to Ararat from Armenia - like an evil smile of fate, the mountain shines with its huge snow dome over the Erevan city, from which no one can get even close to its top.
The inaccessibility of Ararat from Armenia is primarily due to the completely blocked communication between Armenia and Turkey, with a very sharp political situation between the countries. Of course, Ararat is not the main problem in Armenia today, but the situation with the ban on climbing this mountain illustrates well the thesis of my article, to which I just want to move now.
So, you remember? Ararat is closed for Armenia because it is located on the territory controlled by enemy. Without any practical use, just to humiliate and insult people once more.
Another, less known Caucasian summit - Mount Gestola is also located on the border between countries, between Russia and Georgia. This is one of the most beautiful peaks of the Central Caucasus, the precious pearl of the famous Bezengi wall, a full size copy of the neighbouring Mount Tetnuld, so famous in Georgia. Mount Tetnuld and Mount Gestola are like twins, just that Tetnuld looks to the south, and Gestola to the north. Today, Mount Tetnuld is extremely popular for climbing from Georgia - recently a modern network of cable cars and ski slopes has been built on the slopes of this mountain.
A situation is slightly different with Mount Gestola. The image of Mount Gestola can be called as the symbol of whole Bezengi Valley – this is the first impressive and memorable mountain, which can be seen by anyone who has arrived to Bezengi area. The silhouette of this mountain hurts the heart with its perfect geometry...
The further is an analogy with Mount Ararat whish is prohibited from Armenia as well as Mount Gestola from Russia – climbing of this impressive mountain is impossible. Who is the enemy who closed that opportunity for the people to enjoy climbing the most beautiful peak, who has left the entire Bezengi region without a flow of tourists and the possibility of earning money?!
This is the paradox with the idea of which I began to write this text. Just think about it: climbing the summit of Mount Gestola (as well as other peaks of the Main Caucasian Range) is officially prohibited by the Russian border service. The ban on climbing applies both to the citizens of Russia and foreigners as well, some of the tourists randomly been denied total access even to the border area.
But from the neighbouring Georgia – the country included in the list of the "enemies" of modern Russia, mountain climbing is not just allowed, but also welcomed in every possible way, as an additional source of tourist traffic and local people income. And this traffic, as you might guess, Georgia needs for the real development of the tourism infrastructure of the region, the inflow of funds and the improvement of the well-being of its citizens. Citizens of Georgia, as you might guess.
So, in the bottom line, I am showing to you two prohibitions: one vile, but logical and understandable – an attempt to humiliate and suppress the historical enemy, to weaken the will of other people, thus obtaining a military advantage.
The second one is more difficult to explain or understand – who is the enemy trying to humiliate and oppress people in Russia and why? The paradox of the situation becomes more visible if you take into account the friendly attitude of the Georgian authorities to the Russian people, although in Russia this country has been declared an enemy.
Paradox. In exact translation from Greek, this word means something devoid of meaning and logic. I think this title ideally fits the text you just read.
Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First
From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.
