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Climbing in Mallorca January 2023

Rockclimbing in Mallorca January 2023

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Just before the coming of the cyclone, we managed to complete a 10-day rockclimbing program in Mallorca.

Sunset at Sant Vincenc Bay

The weather has been perfect since the beginning of February, we were lucky to be at the very peak of this unexpected winter gift of nature. For 10 days it rained only once, and that was not a heavy rain. It turned out to be 8 days of rockclimbing - not even because of the weather, but because of a too intense climbing schedule - we decided to climb without breaks every day and did not distribute our power sources correctly.

The rockclimbing sector of Santaniy is one of the most beautiful in Mallorca

I don't have much rockclimbing experience in Mallorca in February, so there were some doubts related to the weather. However, it exceeded all the expectations - the temperature was stable within +12°С +22°С limits, with high solar activity, it was really hot to climb on the sunny side of the rocks. Even in the shadow rockclimbing sectors, the temperature was nice and comfortable.

Bay of Cala Figuera

Such wonderful weather attracted to Mallorca not only us - it was quite busy in the rockclimbing sectors, not even talking about cyclists - I would never have thought that in February there could be real traffic jams in Mallorca from huge herds of lovers to pedal and spoil the life to the normal car drivers.

In the rockclimbing sector El Fumat

In addition, the influx of tourists was observed not only in the sports areas. The idle public in Pollenca and Alcudia also turned out to be more than expected. And in Cala Figuera resort, the beach season has already been open - not only mothers and fathers with their children splashed in the turquoise water, but even their shaggy pets sought to swim in the cool, crystal clear water.

Mallorca's main rockclimbing attraction - Es Pontas

The water temperature was not as comfortable - after swimming in December, it seemed to me that the water is some cooler now. I would say, it is 10-12°C, no more. But after an intense workout on the hot rocks, you can swim with great pleasure, regardless of the water temperature.

Climbing training in the Creveta sector

The training schedule was built according to the standard scheme - we started climbing on the simple slabs of San Marti, then moved to Creveta, then to Magraner, Santaniy, Sa Gubia and El Fumat. This time I would not boast with high sports achievements - after all, for this you need to train more regularly. But general physical activity, weather and good mood were enough for a great rockclimbing program.

Climbing training in the Magraner sector

Finally, we were able to climb a multi-pitch route – that was an adventure uncharacteristic for Mallorca. The fact is that there are very few long rockclimbing routes on the island - all the rock masses have an average height of 70-120 meters and a significant difference in the complexity of the upper and lower sections. This feature makes the organization of multi-pitch routes quite a challenge. I'm not talking about 7c’s and 8’s as the second pitch after the "five" approach - after all, this is not a multi-pitch at all.

On the top rope of a multipitch in Sa Gubia

And the demand from the rockclimbing people of Mallorca is mainly for short sports routes. However, in the Sa Gubia massif there is a set of 12 routes consisting of 4-7 pitches - in fact, this is the only opportunity to climb long rockclimbing routes in Mallorca. The range of categories of these routes is from V+ to 7a, except for the "five", all routes are well equipped for free rockclimbing, with some courage you can do them without extra gear.

Sierra Tramontana - a small mountain system of the island of Mallorca

I talked about the accident on the neighboring long route my previous post. An unpleasant event, but on the other hand, demonstrating the accuracy of the work of the local rescue services - perhaps this is the most important condition for practicing any kind of extreme sports.

Evacuation of the victim from the climbing route on Sa Gubia

In conclusion, I would say that once again the island of Mallorca pleased us with the opportunity to immerse completely in the world of sports and the unique beauty of the nature. However, all good things come to their end quickly - especially if it is wine, a feminine mood or good `weather.

Amazing watercolor in Santaniy Bay

And so it happened - on the final day of the program, the sky frowned, it began to drizzle. And the next day Mallorca showed everything that it is capable in the winter. The temperature dropped to +6°C, snow fell in the mountains, and coastal areas were flooded. It has been raining continuously for the second day - a powerful cyclone has come to the island - I think that further rockclimbing has been canceled for at least a week.

Flooding in Alcudia

The author of the program, text and photos is Alexey Trubachev


Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.