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- Touching the Legend
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- Elbrus. Interview with rescuer
- Elbrus - the live legend
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- Khan Tnegri from the North
- International Ushba climb 2002
- Ushba 2002. Author Sergey Zabrodin
- Svanetia, Caucasus from the South
- Climbing Matterhorn - first article
- Climbing Belukha, Altay
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- Climbing in Mallorca January 2023
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- Rockclimbing in Peru - Huaraz 2023
- Mallorca rockclimbing December 2023
- Brazil rockclimbing
- Georgia Rockcimbing spring 2019
- Madagascar rockclimbing
- Rockclimbing trip to Kalymnos, Autumn 2014
- Rockclimbing trip to Kalymnos, Spring 2014
- Rockclimbimg in Cuba
- Quadras or the architecture of the gods
- Rockcliming Armenia
- Cuba far away
- Crimea winter Rockclimbing
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- Codex of Mountain Guide
Ten best mountains of the world
Top 10 peaks of the world
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MCS AlexClimb Mountain climbing School
A successful marketing ploy once turned the climbing of the 7 highest mountains in the world into one of the popular games. After some time, these first 7 peaks turned into what gifted businessmen dreamed of, but at the same time into something completely different than many enthusiastic climbers imagine.
Climbing Everest
Today it is hardly worth of serious considering to clibm the set of the seven peaks of the world as an adequate task in terms of its attractiveness - the routes are crap and crowded, the impression from them is of very dubious value. After all, mountaineering, in its essence, is an activity that helps to develop individuality, to feel freedom and unity with the outside world. And elbowing in the crowd you can leave as an occupation for a city square, but definitely not for mountains.
Everest base camp
No matter how pure and beautiful are the ideals of mountaineering, it is impossible to achieve them, standing as number 101 in a line to climb Everest, with an icy nose buried in the icy butt of the next victim of marketing standing in front...
Or pushing and elbowing on the top of Mount Elbrus in search of a place for a selfie, free from exhausted climbers.
The famous line of climbers close to the summit of Everest
If you understood my message correctly, you guessed it. I propose to go beyond the hyped attraction, and see that there are many endlessly interesting and incredible mountains around, more worthy of attention than those that lie in the bright showcases of the Vanity Fair.
Top of the Matterhorn in Switzerland
The famous mountain peaks not always gain their fame due to their altitude. No one denies that the altitude factor attracts the most attention, and no peak will ever be able to compete in popularity with the highest mountain in the world – Mount Everest.
However, it is thanks to this popularity that long ago Everest turned into an expensive and meaningless attraction, and climbing this mountain has become available to any wealthy tourist.
Mount Ushba - the majestic Queen of the Caucasus
The primitive principle of selection by altitude has led to the fact that the highest points of the seven continents have become a "Mecca" for those who want to collect a set of "bright but cheap" experiences. The result is a pandemonium on the routes, exorbitant prices for services, falling, in proportion to the demand, the quality of service.
Base camp at the foot of Mount Ama Dablam
Maybe it's worth trying to choose mountains not only by the criterion of their height?
After all, the world around us is alive, and the mountains, as its integral part - are like living beings – it would be strange to choose your friends, focusing only on their height?
Famous Mount Ushba, Caucasus
This is the concept of an alternative set of mountains, collected not according to the primitive geographical sign of the altitude above sea level, but according to the combination of qualities that make these peaks exceptional, symbolic and attractive.
Dykh Tau peak, central Caucasus
My point of view is that the mountaineering, at its core, is a close interaction between mountains and people. Therefore, the principle by which certain peaks were included into my list is their “human history”, the presence of unique factors that affect any person who falls into their zone of attraction, touches them or climbs to their summits.
So, the 10 "Most Amazing Peaks in the World" - MCS AlexClimb Collection (IClimb)
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1 Alps: Mount Matterhorn
The first and only mountain that can symbolize the "beginning of beginnings" so to say Alpinism in the Alps.
The top of the Matterhorn soars above the clouds
The rocky fang that pierces the sky on the border of Switzerland and Italy is not only the most memorable, beautiful and characteristic peak in the Alps, it is a reflection of the very essence of mountaineering - the desire for vertical progress, setting a goal or task that initially seems impossible. But success in which comes through perseverance and fearlessness. An ideal goal for the strong in spirit and ready for a real feat in order to achieve it.
2. Caucasus: Mount Ushba
Without going far from the developed European part of the continent, one cannot ignore the mountain, which in character and appearance is very close to the first mountain on my list.
Queen of the Caucasus – Mount Ushba
Unconditionally reigning over the ridge of the Caucasus Mountains, the two-horned peak of Mount Ushba terrifies with its very appearance. Many people call Ushba the “Queen of the Caucasus” for its proud appearance and some incredible nobility of outlines. Since the first ascent of this peak at the end of the 19th century, the series of climbing of all the technically difficult mountains of the Caucasus began, but none of these mountains has that crazy charisma and magnetic attraction like Mount Ushba.
3. Kamchatka: Kamen volcano. The hardest for climbing volcano in the world
At the very edge of the earth there is a peak, with its whole appearance striving to become among the most desperate peaks of the world.
Volcano Kamen, Kamchatka
A fragment of the colossal stratovolcano is raised into the sky for almost 5 kilometers. A combination of factors - the lack of easy climbing routes, the high complexity of climbing routes, remoteness from any infrastructure, exotic environment (Kamen volcano is surrounded by constantly erupting active volcanoes) make this mountain unique in its wildness and inaccessibility. And the aesthetics of a separately standing steep mountain puts this peak in a line with the legendary climbing symbols.
4. Himalayas: Ama Dablam.
The most beautiful mountain in the Himalayas, there can be no two opinions No matter how famous and high are the neighboring mountains, but just a single glance at the outlines of Mount Ama Dablam is enough for that its silhouette will remain in the heart, and the heart itself remains in the Himalayas.
Mount Ama Dablam, Himalayas
No other peak, neither Everest, nor Lhotse, nor Annapurna can boast such a desperate individuality, such pure expressiveness of forms as Mount Ama Dablam. Even the name of this mountain reflects the reverent attitude of the local people towards it - Ama Dablam is translated as "Mother's Jewel". Despite the fact that this peak is significantly “lower” than the neighboring eight-thousanders, climbing Ama Dablam is a serious climbing event that requires preparation, luck and patience.
5. Andes: Nevado Alpamayo. The most famous mountain of Peru, officially declared as the "Most Beautiful Mountain in the World"
There cannot be any “most beautiful” mountains, as all mountains are beautiful in their own way. But there are mountains with a strong personality, and without a doubt, Mount Alpamayo is one of them.
Mount Alpamayo, Peru
The summit is located in a ridge that separates the wet swamps of the upper Amazon in the east and the cold, dry deserts of the Atlantic coast in the west. Constant winds created unique snow forms and pulled the thinnest and openwork snow ridge into the sky for almost 6 kilometers. This is the summit of Mount Alpamayo. At sunset, the top of Alpamayo turns into a colossal screen on which all possible shades of sunset colors change. In order to see this incredible performance, you will have to overcome serious mountain obstacles - huge distances of approaches, steep rocky slopes, sheer snow passes. And to climb the snowy ridge of Mount Alpamayo summit, you need special iceclimbing skills.
6. Africa: Mount Kenya. The most colorful mountain of the world
Africa is a whole world of the brightest colors and the most incredible contrasts – definitely God was in a good mood when he created this miracle of nature.
Nelion Summit Tower - Mount Kenya massif
All the features of the Black Continent are multiplied and concentrated in one, the brightest and most memorable mountain of Africa, the only mountain in the world with an altitude of more than 5000 meters, located directly on the Equator line. Mount Kilimanjaro, which is located relatively close, diverted into the main attention of tourists and allowed to Mount Kenya to retain that delicate atmosphere that borders popular tourist route from the world of wildlife. Climbing Mount Kenya is not particularly difficult, but it gives the most incredible experience from a close acquaintance with the unique features of the equatorial highlands.
7. Patagonia: Cerro Torre. The most impregnable
Looking at this mountain for the first time, it is not possible to believe in what you see. Even from afar, the top of a colossal granite rock, rarely appearing among the clouds, leaves the observer in a state of nervous awe.
Patagonia, Mount Cerro Torre
It is impossible to imagine anything more impregnable, incredible in its colossal view. The sheer walls of the summit are shrouded in clouds, kilometers of the granite verticals are crowned with openwork snow caps. It seems that the concept of the word "impregnability" is expressed in the stone forms of Cerro Torre - it is impossible to imagine the difficulties that will stand in the way of a person who decides to challenge this peak. However, there are no insurmountable obstacles and impossible tasks in the world - and this is another unique feature of Cerro Torre - to prove that the impossible is still possible. Climbing Cerro Torre is technically difficult, but it is real. Although it requires many years of training and mastery of rockclimbing techniques.
8. Tien Shan: Mount Khan Tengri. The most majestic mountain in the world
A peak which name reflects its character. The proud and majestic appearance of the "Lord of Spirits" fascinates and evokes a feeling of reverence for this miracle of nature.
South side of Mount Khan Tengri
The seven-kilometer-high correct form of the Mount Khan Tengri pyramid impresses with its ideal lines, symmetry of forms and some kind of geometric completeness. This mountain is also called "The Tian Shan Matterhorn" - like the first mountain of our collection, Mount Khan Tengri has an unforgettable unique appearance and incredible charisma. Mount Khan Tengri is a “crystal mountain” which ridges logically lead to the sharp summit point. And reaching this summit seems like an impossible task. However, nevertheless, Mount Khan Tengri is one of the most popular mountains for climbing in Central Asia, although it requires professional mountaineering skills and perfect physical shape.
9. New Zealand: Mount Cook. The most insidious
At the other edge of the earth there is a mountain system, located as the mirror reflection in the Southern Hemisphere in relation to the Northern, at the geographical latitude of the European Alps.
The summit of Mount Cook, New Zealand
These are the Southern Alps, the closest mountain system to Antarctica – very young in geological aspect, dangerous mountains, poorly developed by climbers. The highest peak of the Southern Alps - Mount Cook, with its relatively low altitude – it is only 3.724 meters above the sea level, can be called the most insidious mountain in the world. The proximity of the Antarctic and the cold Pacific Ocean creates completely unpredictable weather conditions, the relief and structure of the mountains do not give any guarantees of the state of the route. The tactics of climbing Mount Cook does not allow any hesitation and delay - long and technically difficult routes are climbed "on a flash", as quickly and agilely as possible, in the short "weather windows". The difficulty of climbing Mount Cook is opposed by the stunning beauty of this mountain, located in one of the most beautiful and harsh corners of the Earth – in the heart of South Island of New Zealand.
10. USA: El Capitan. The most athletic cliff in the world.
At the end of my collection, there is a mountain peak that is radically different from all the other mountains.
USA, Yosemite. The incredible scale of the El Capitan rock cannot be estimated with a glance
There are no glaciers on it, sunsets and sunrises do not light up on its summit as they shine on the other snowy peaks. Nevertheless, the world-famous El Capitan rock massif is enchantingly beautiful, and also unparalleled in the number, complexity and length of the climbing routes. El Capitan is a giant rock mass in Yosemite, with vertical walls almost 1000 meters high and a huge number of the most difficult rockclimbing routes.
El Capitan
This mountain is a test of climbing "maturity" for the strongest climbers. Every year, thousands of athletes climb El Capitan, for these people climbing Elcap is a goal and a perfect reason for constant training, discipline and self-development.
The author of the text and (almost all) photos - Alex Trubachev
Your professional mountaineering, rockclimbing and iceclimbing guide
MCS EDIT 2023
Our Principles
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First
From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.