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Khan Tnegri from the North

Central Tien Shan, climbing Khan Tengri

(author A. Trubachev)

photographs

Peak climbing Norsultana Nazarbayev (Komsomol) and Khan Tengri 2003 season were developed and implemented the School of Mountaineering and Climbing AlexClimb. Climbing equipment was provided by CAMP. Sincere thanks to all!

August 24, 2002 over the next expedition program "Sports Without Borders" ("Sport With No Bounds"). This event was part of the preparatory phase of the project "Touching the legend", the implementation of which we plan in February and March 2004. The tasks were purely organizational, no sports plans we built ... However, everything turned out very nicely, and in general it can be said - failed. Were established the right contacts, a plan of cooperation, and most importantly - there was a clear understanding of the area, where before none of us was - Central Tien Shan.

Climbing Khan Tengri This season we flew to the base camp on the North Inylchek before installing it - the first! Painting inspired feats of labor - scattered here and there wooden pallets, broken frames, lapped by the glacial river remains turbulent last year baths. Everything to build and build anew - a conclusion that immediately comes to mind, even without any effort of its owner.

Despite the promise of labor feats, the general mood was upbeat. Weather like happy with us. After four days of sitting on the basis of Akkol in the company of dogs, cows, etc., Near the base camp caused genuine delight: the camp is situated at an altitude of 4000 m, on the moraine massive glacier, on the one hand compressed rock bastions Bayankol, on the other hand ... you already were in the North Inylchek? If not, then it is really worth a visit, if only because there is a North Wall Khan Tengri. Spectacle unimaginable, believe me. I just gasped when I first saw it.

Three-kilometer wall, cut the top third of the oblique shelf, from which begins belt red rocks. But this formal definition. What you feel, being face to face with this stunning mountain is far beyond my literary abilities. Feeling born somewhere in the abdomen, is growing rapidly and enthusiastically fills the whole inner space. Feeling of a small underground nuclear explosion. Then comes the joy and sense of something real, right. These feelings are not amenable to logical analysis - all should be the opposite, but ... There is nothing wrong with that man is happy just the way that, for example, that the snow - white, stone heated by the sun, or simply the fact that in the eyes completely stranger suddenly you see a smile and a reflection of your own inner state ...

The base camp on the glacier Northern Inylchek - here begins the ascent to the peak of Khan Tengri first fundamental building we have erected immediately after arrival was so. Dumped on him that, as they say in Russia, - God sent. Sin probably ascribe to the Lord our own weaknesses ... say that God sent sprats, sausage and cucumbers with tomatoes and vodka we are, like, grabbed ...

Table stands proudly above the surrounding reality for him to speak loudly befitting the occasion word. The general sense of them was this: how good we came back here! But soon, do not speak in Russian and (even worse), non-drinking part of our company began to express a quiet English-speaking discontent. So this writer, who was there as captain of the international team had to go from the sublime and inspired feast to the more prosaic topic - installing your own camp.

Gorgeous weather held for a week. Sunny and warm day, a light frost and incredible, starry sky at night - all disposed to build far-reaching plans. During the first week had a lot - got acquainted with the neighbors, began acclimatization program, set up camp I. The people at this time on the mountain is usually a little bit - the main climbing season is in August, but a certain excitement already traced. Punching a path to the first camp we met with the guys from Austria. Soon arrived and joined the Koreans work - we have already seen them in Almma-Ata - strange guys everywhere sticks tiny flags, even in the Base Camp from the kitchen to his tent! - Not to get lost.

Deep snow, our team rises to the camp II - 5800 Camp I is located on a small extension of the ground ridge at an altitude of 4800. The location is very convenient, sheltered from the wind. Tent can be put on the rocks - it makes more comfortable spending the night - warmer than the snow.

Once an ancient "Jung" was jointly established, it climbed fly and became a cast over the Primus and pans. Half an hour later the camp floated fabulous flavor. Not for long, I pretended not to notice anything - everything became more insistent call of the kitchen. Soon followed by an invitation to abandon which means ignore all the laws of common sense. Evening pass for a pleasant conversation in a warm company. Remembered mutual friends, the glorious deeds of days gone by ... And in the morning down again - planned for 4800 was held overnight without incident - if we talk about us. The neighbors had some difficulty - all night around their tents heard suspicious movement, beatific silence of the night now and then broke the odd-characteristic sounds. In the morning everything was explained very simply - after we left for the night, they decided to once more for dinner. And then ... Whether culinary delights Mucha cause malfunction of the stomachs of his comrades, or just sausage was slightly rotten - the result was on the face, or rather, it is not on the face. Although the faces of the night eaters sausage in the morning was very pale. But, anyway, our team passed this cup, and we rode jauntily towards Base Camp - rest.

Climbing Khan Tengri However, the weather began to change. This is the law of nature - you can not argue. The weather is always changing, and if it is a very good and change for the better is nowhere - it is natural to expect that it will deteriorate. And so it happened. First strong wind arose, then the clouds and began snowstorm. Well, we at the Base Camp - a lot of people do not get bored, you can go to visit. Guitar, girls ... In short, one bothered - we have time - just three weeks, one of which has already passed ... chance ... Who can assess them? But somehow the place I felt that we should hurry. And the next morning we hit the road - first camp I, there to spend the night and in the morning back to work - gradually migrate camp a mile above - to Camp II.

The route is well equipped - proveshen stationary handrail - relying on Jumar go much easier and safer. But sometimes the ropes are swept snow - you have to stop, pull. The ascent is steep, steep sections meet periodically. There is already fully felt the height - each movement is given with difficulty, everything happens very slowly. The earth does not want to let us go. Not that here, at a height, we are strangers, no ... we just too its down there ...


So, after a snowfall, looks Camp II at Khan Tengri hardly move my legs ... On the slope of scattered small flags on bamboo sticks - it traces the Koreans, which marked its getting to. Or rather noobs. Their team is very friendly, but it is not prepared to work at such a height. Of the ten participants to Camp II was able to get only the most persistent - Mun Ho, who later tried to teach me to speak Korean and cook hot dogs from these dogs. "Bull tightened nige kmbat"? But I digress from the main theme of the narrative ...

"Camel" was far below - to the promised Plateau (plateau), where the camp II, was no more than 100 meters vertically. But what were the subway! The slope is very steep, covered with snow more often found icy rock. All hope for the railing and the one who secured their top.

But that's a long-awaited inflection. The body does not immediately believe in such happiness - then it is not necessary to go up! (so long). A huge snow fields. She anyone. Only snow. No trace of previous expeditions - we first. Then everything goes according to pre-thought-out scenario - quickly dig in the snow all that dragged, mark the spot, photographed and down ...

We were going to go back to Camp II in a day! Ha ... Man proposes and God disposes! All four of the next day did not stop the blizzard. No one even went to the first camp.

In the labyrinth of ice glacier Northern Inylchek climbing Khan Tengri In order to somehow brighten up the next downtime in Base Camp, I came up with the global entertainment - ice-keyving. You can not even guess what it is! It seems to be a glacier glacier - moraine, mud, streams, which then disappear, then reappear. Here. That's just it. No wonder they disappear. In the body of the glacier cut exceptionally beautiful cave - you only need to find the right entrance - and you find yourself in a completely different world. Stalactites, stalagmites, fancy sag - all made out of crystal clear ice sparkles and shines in the light of lanterns. Especially beautiful is obtained by mixing white light our lanterns PETZL diode with yellow light lamp of old lanterns. The feeling that no ice around, and full of gems, fabulous treasury of King of the Hill ... If you want, of the icy labyrinth can be stretched for the whole day!


The main feature of the weather, as shown by long-term observations, is that, like everything else, it also ends. Sooner or later, depending on the amount of your patience. On the fifth day, it became clear that it was time to move up. Getting up too early, one long jerk (affected enforced rest at base camp) we ran into Camp II. And what do we see here? Nothing good, I assure you! Landscape ascent of Khan Tengri changed - grown snowdrifts where before were ravines, and vice versa, where the drifts were previously (and marked by me personally snow mound with our Zabroska) formed snow drifts wide. The problem became apparent - how to find the things necessary for the continuation of the expedition? Fortunately, the place was marked GPS, at least approximately determine the place of the search. Zabrosku found after 40 minutes, experiencing all the different sensations associated with its loss. They say that such cases are not uncommon - sometimes completely asleep and breaks the established tent, and the amount of snow fell in the night can exceed two meters ... In short, things were found and the adventure continues.

Another camp overnight in 5800. The hope that will be able to climb to the top, melting with each passing day. Blizzard does not stop, around the tent, which regularly have to dig, grow giant snowdrifts. Was made sluggish attempt to reach the summit ridge of the peak Chapaev - avalanche, a miracle is not buried three people, so we decided to wait. A hard decision, but the problem up at any cost was not. Wait so wait ...


Day ... another day ... In order to safely pass the slope, on which hangs a snow board, need two days climbing Khan Tengri sunny weather. Then ice cones for flooring - the cause of formation of this type of avalanches, will melt ice crust on the snow will fall, and the risk of no longer ... But still no sun. Howling blizzard, with each hour reducing our hope to rise to the top. But there is no escape. To break up and release the avalanche - it could mean the end not only of the ascent, but also all future - this option does not suit anyone. The ability to wait, and if necessary, even give up the ascent - a basic principle of professional mountaineering where obstacles stand in front of a man much bigger and stronger than him, incomparably more - to win in this game, you have to be a true Homo Sapiens - Homo sapiens.

It's always there. Gradually, over and over again to drag and drop items and gear up, and then all have to shoot at a time. The waiting period has expired, it's time down. On muddy snow, aside from a broken trail - not to spoil the lifting stage, we tumbles toward the base camp. Tyazhelyuschy backpack full of things that in fact, no longer needed, but throw them on the mountain is incorrect - the remaining gasoline products, including donated by those who went before and was a little trickier.

As well to move down on the ass on smoothly vyholazhivayuschemusya glacier slope Khan Tengri! This pleasure can be compared only with the same fun of the Matterhorn - even there we climbed up the hill for the sake of it ... What am I ...? Oh yeah.

Going down to the Base Camp, we were surprised to find that during our absence in the camp there were serious changes. Number of tents has increased dramatically, camp scurried around a bunch of unfamiliar people.

- General ordered us to climb to the top - so said to me a young man in a camouflage-uniform, looking so ridiculous On the local, rocky, snowy terrain. These were the rescuers from Tyumen. Rescuers began an international festival "Khan Tengri 2003".

- Who else has arrived? - I asked Ermachek noticed standing near a helicopter.

- Yes, some Georgians. Two girls and five boys, and not the head of the name Aki, not the Ati ...

- Maybe Afi? - I immediately thought of the great guys from Georgia, which last year we installed a plaque on the South Ushbe - Afi Gigani, Sofa (incidentally, this is the first Georgian climber, climbing to Amadablan), Lika.

- Yes, exactly - Afi - but how do you know ?! - Said Jura.

Climbing Khan Tengri Here wonders! Where zaedesh not, even in the most seemingly inaccessible places, meet those who really did not expect to see here! Afi flew with the Georgian team on the North Inylchek ...! And I was just going to phone him on the next climb Ushba after my return to Moscow! They passed without knowing me. Still! Also probably did not expect ... But as surprised to hear me thrown them in the following phrases in Georgian, has remained in my memory after last year's expedition and means in translation "how glad I am to see you again, my friends!" Then we hugged for a long time, having fun, drinking Armenian cognac. Strange feeling - when one after another occur most incredible coincidence, a little lost sense of reality - from her as if to fall out. May indeed that someone very powerful and sometimes amusing jokes over ordinary mortals, putting them in a situation beyond their understanding, and understanding, and then to tears laughing at them dumbfounded faces ...

Did not want to fly. So many new and old friends, like the weather is getting better, incredibly beautiful and we are not impressed by this time the top ... It's sad to part with it all. But after a week it is necessary to be back in the Caucasus ... Nothing can be done. Three days later the plane to Moscow late impossible.

Goodbye, Khan Tengri, see you next season! Good luck to you, my friends!

Climbing Khan Tengri exactly buzzing aircraft engines, far below the desert sands slowly float Karakoram ... pretty smiling flight attendant serving drinks. Civilization. I'm back in this crazy world. But it is very close to the border of consciousness, live, yet undistorted bustle, experience another world - the world of shining white, absolute purity and tranquility of space - another reality, only occasionally and briefly reveals to us his superhuman beauty - these moments cut the soul to its very foundations , cut off all protective covers - and leave the needle in the heart of the icy Snow Queen. "I left the heart in the Fan Mountains" - Yuri Vizbor. Trite, but true.

A few days of rest in Moscow and again in the Caucasus - in front of a new meeting with Ushboy. The adventure continues !!!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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