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Stories about alpine climbing trips
- South Ushba via 3 buttress
- Ojos del Salado Arg side 2023
- Khan Tengri Edge of risk
- Dykh Tau and Bezengi 2023
- Mount Belukha - the Princess of Altai
- Climbing Alpamayo 2023
- Season 2023 completed
- Season 2023 specifics
- Climbing Monblan 2022
- Lifeless Sierra smiles
- Cerro Torre 50
- Siula Grande
- Climbing Kazbek. Georgia
- Ushba mountain beach
- North Ushba climb
- Morocco, Toubkal climbing
- The Life of the Valley of Sun
- Ushba. Forbidden Mountain
- Peak Lenin Climb
- Kilimanjaro climb
- Elbrus. Today, yesterday and tomorrow
- Mount Kenya climb
- Wind, Rocks and South Cross
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- Touching the Legend
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- Elbrus. Interview with rescuer
- Elbrus - the live legend
- Tian Shan, Peak Komsomol climb
- Khan Tnegri from the North
- International Ushba climb 2002
- Ushba 2002. Author Sergey Zabrodin
- Svanetia, Caucasus from the South
- Climbing Matterhorn - first article
- Climbing Belukha, Altay
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Rockclimbing stories
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- Climbing in Mallorca January 2023
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- Rockclimbing in Peru - Huaraz 2023
- Mallorca rockclimbing December 2023
- Brazil rockclimbing
- Georgia Rockcimbing
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- Rockclimbing trip to Kalymnos, Autumn 2014
- Rockclimbing trip to Kalymnos, Spring 2014
- Rockclimbimg in Cuba
- Quadras or the architecture of the gods
- Rockcliming Armenia
- Cuba far away
- Crimea winter Rockclimbing
- Gear reviews, repairs, fails
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- Codex of Mountain Guide
Season 2023 specifics
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My collection of mountain programs in Peru
In the 2023 mountain climbing season, we encountered unusually varied conditions on the alpine routes - from extremely low levels of snow cover and critical conditions of glaciers, to deep drifts of fresh snow, even on the most steep or vertical pitches.
Descending Nevado Alpamayo ice wall after a successful climb to the summit
The second, by the way, did not in any way improved the situation with snow bridges over deep glacier crevasses - the main difficulty and danger of this season. After an uncharacteristically hot and dry winter in the Cordillera Blanca, a critical deterioration in the condition of glaciers, collapses of snow bridges and ice seracs were observed everywhere.
Condition of the Alpamayo - Quitaraju pass before the first snowfall in September
Alas, with the logical increase in the number of serious accidents that follows from this fact...
Seasonal snowfalls this year began three weeks earlier than their annual schedule - the first cyclones with abnormal amounts of precipitation arrived in the Cordillera Blanca on September 5-6. Despite the fact that long-term statistics in these mountains indicate the beginning of the rainy season no earlier than September 20th.
Condition of the approach to the wall part of the Alpamayo route before the first snowfall
The same section of the route after snowfall. More than 50 cm of snow fell
Giant crevasses and new seracs appeared literally before our eyes in this season. The situation was constantly changing, the glacier routes changed beyond recognition within 1-2 weeks.
A crevasse that opened literally a week between our two ascents of Ishinca
This variability in the condition of the climbing routes can be called the main feature of the 2023 mountain season. It is also an indirect confirmation of the theory of global warming, but this is more on the topic of Greta Tumberg.
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Overnight camping at the foot of Nevado Toclaraju - during our acclimatization program before climbing Alpamayo
Glaciers and lines of the snow-ice routes have changed so much over this season that there are reasonable doubts about what will remain of these mountains by the next season. But here, fortunately, options are possible. We hope for an abnormally snowy and rainy summer...
Snow-ice mass of Nevado Rurichinchay 6309 m, the nodal peak of the main ridge of the Cordillera Blanca range
In fact, many routes in Cordillera Blanca have changed to the point of being completely impassable for climbing during this season. On the other hand, new opportunities appeared in other categories of the routes - many granite rock lines remained dry and free of snow or ice throughout this season.
The ominous summit tower of nevado Taullaraju. Three years ago, a team from Mexico of 6 people died while trying to climb this mountain....
Personally, I hope that one of the most interesting and diverse mountain regions in the world, the snow-ice climbing paradise - Cordillera Blanca - will not turn into the new rocky Patagonia... Although my heart is torn between the love of iceclimbing and the craving for rockclimbing, I want to draw a clear line between.
Summit dome of the unnamed peak 5454, north of Nevado Tocllaraju
Patagonia is a paradise for rock climbers and also for those who are patient enough to spend a couple of months waiting for a short couple of day weather window. So that they can run up a rock face and have time to descend before the next two-to-three week cyclone.
The rock verticals of Patagonia are the best destinations for alpine rockclimbing
And Cordillera Blanca is a dream of a gourmet climber, a contemplatively dreamy world of the snow-white fantasies of the Great Designer, frozen in incredible forms. I hope that these worlds will retain their individuality and uniqueness, each in its own nature...
Ice crown of Nevado Palcaraju in Cordillera Blanca
Along the rocky verticals we will strive to the peaks of Patagonia. And to the openwork ice sculptures of sky-high summits - we climb in the Cordillera Blanca. Well, or at least in the Cordillera Huayhuash. Which also would also be very nice.
Potentially that is a best sight of season - Nevado Alpamayo summit dome against the backdrop of the Milky Way on a clear, moonless night
Author of text and photographs - Alex Trubachev
Your guide to mountaineering and rock climbing in Argentina, Peru and Bolivia
MCS EDIT 2023
Our Principles
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First
From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.
