Solo climb of Matterhorn

Solo ascent of Mattenhorn

(author A. Trubachev)

photographs

Solo - the ascent of the Matterhorn in 2004 was organized by the School of Mountaineering and Climbing AlexClimb. General sponsor of the project - the company CAMP. Sincere thanks to all!

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn

Each mountain system there is one vertex, which stands out among the others, and around which hangs a kind of aura - something invisible to the eye, but it is the tangible sensory organ in the human body which is responsible for such feelings. Located within sight of such vertices, unwittingly come under their influence, you find yourself fascinated, hypnotized spectacle of unearthly beauty. For example, in the Caucasus is Ushba and partly Elbrus, in the Altai - Belukha, Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan. I have no doubt that the Alpine peaks Matterhorn has the same property.

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn mountain located on the border of Italy and Switzerland, is a regular pyramid rock, closing the valley Cervino, from Switzerland, it looks like a free-standing mountain, but in fact it is the end of the mountain range, which stretches for many miles and south side surrounded by high and magnificent peaks. But, nevertheless, even once in these places for the first time, it is practically impossible to make a mistake - Matterhorn can not be confused with any of the surrounding peaks.

The history of climbing this mountain carries a lot of dramatic events, many brave men lost their lives for the violation of his eternal serenity steep slopes and for trying to get closer to the inner sanctum of the Matterhorn - its top ... At the moment, despite its technical difficulty, this is one of the most popular climbing sites of the Alps.

My decision to give up a single call to the Matterhorn was under a few reasons. Firstly, I wanted to get to know the mountain better, so that there was no distractions, just me and the mountain. In such circumstances, it is much brighter feel the inner essence of mountaineering, approaches its philosophical roots. Second, the technical solo ascent requires perfect the technique of climbing - because lately I've been working as a professional guide for me solo - it is also a good exercise, because sometimes when dealing with customers on the route, there are occasions when the solo skills walking to the guide are just priceless ...
blog climber

first Day

My report I start with the first day of the actual beginning of the ascent, and even up to this moment happened to me various adventures or simply interesting events, this is what I will try to write later, it is now focusing on the climbing part of the event.

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn After several days of anxious waiting and enforced idleness due to bad weather, Chamonix Meteocentrum message that the next two days will be clear, I took it as a sign from above. Onward and upward, and there ... And what is it? Touring with a mouse and quite weighty backpack (despite all the efforts facilitated Backscratcher still weighed under tridtsatnik ...), I stumbled into the room Ecole du ski (Ski School and, concurrently, the rescue station), where everyone knew about my daring plan. We must pay tribute to Italian rescuers - with all his skepticism about the idea of a winter solo ascent of the Matterhorn, no one even tried to like it affect my plans, talk, or as is customary in Russia - just ban. Quite the contrary. Attitude on the part of officials was very friendly, respectful ... I was given detailed advice about the route that has changed dramatically in recent years, provided the radio, promised support helicopter. By the way, at the end of last season Mont Cervino (Matterhorn is the name of the Italian side) was closed for climbing due to rock falls that have changed the many routes, including the one on which I expected to rise. The most difficult part, as I explained, is now at an altitude of 3600-3800, where after a terrible crash in August 2003 with the route permanently removed all proveshennye railings and chains. There was one place, the so-called Wimper Chimney - inner corner where according to legend, Vimper (pervoprohodimets Matterhorn) fell and broke his leg. The place is really difficult, but there hung a chain on which all and climbed ... Honestly, I am also going to ... A year ago, the entire left side of this inner corner fell down together with a chain, and in place of the famous fire formed smooth twenty-meter sheer wall . I was warned that this is the most technically difficult place on the route where you need to be especially careful.

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn What can I say, on the chain of course I was upset. So wanted skhalyavit ... But a few knowledgeable people cheered me saying that if I pass this wall, you then will have no problems - on the route there is nothing so difficult not to meet ...

My task for the day - up to a transshipment point - Abruzzi Hut. This is a small old hotel situated on 800 meters above Cervinia, at the beginning of the route of ascent of the Matterhorn. In winter, it is not functioning.

The day was cold and windy, the temperature at -15 Cervinia. Surface snow compressed into a hard crust, which holds good skiing, but falls under the foot. Go to the ski touring, what would I do without him ... Rise up Abruzzi took about four hours and nothing remarkable was not marked. A strong north wind, to whom I owe the good weather that day, however, created some inconveniences, mainly related to the fact that it became colder and colder.

But the ascent began, and most importantly ... It was hard to break out of the zone of attraction civilization of generous spring warmth and coziness welcoming valley, again go to the bitter cold of winter highlands. But the worst thing - this is the first leap. Then there is no room to fluctuations - then the action of another force of attraction - the mountain attracts, fascinates. And a little scary at the same time, somehow indifferent. What will happen - it will be the main thing - to go.

Approaching the Abruzzi Hut - three storey stone structure on the roof windswept snow, I was pleased to note the fact that the pitch a tent in a strong wind will not have to - have begun to rebuild the hotel - the building was a bare skeleton - no windows, no doors closed only concrete walls and a roof. Better not think of a place to spend the night. Inside is full of snow, but you can hide from the wind. Boiled tea, dinner. Prepared everything for tomorrow's early exit and went to bed. All night the wind howled.

day Two

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Woke silence. The wind stopped. A thin ray of light faded seeps through the gap in the boarded up window opening. The thermometer -25 ... No desire to leave the warm down sleeping bags. But there is the most crucial part of the way. And the hardest. Today we need to climb to 3900 km to the shelter - Capanna di Carrel - Pretty cozy hut, where the summit will be only 600 meters away. But in order to get it, you need to try very ...

The technical part of the route begins with a jumper between the Matterhorn and neighboring vertices Testa di Lione. Summer on the jumper fall, traversing slopes Testa di Lione on narrow shelves under the top of the mountain. This option is not highly advised me to use because of its marginal avalanches. Another option - a steep couloir leading directly to the saddle - there are also quite high avalanche danger, but at least the rollout of this avalanche is the glacier rather than the rock dumps ...

Whip up breakfast, going quickly and start climbing. Feels like yesterday I decide to give up skiing and tent. Ski further rise several krutovato, besides a very dense crust - Camus ski touring on it slips - it is easier to go to the cats, and the tent above just nowhere to put. Severe frost and until the sun came up, need to have time to climb as high as possible. The teeth of cats with a scratch bite into hard-packed wind crust. It'S Cold. In a plastic bottle with water, despite the fact that I prudently stuck it in her bosom, two hours later, the water began to freeze.

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Sun caught up with me when I almost got to the mouth of the gully. As if by magic crust ceased to hold - the speed of advance immediately dropped dramatically, following a hundred meters from the entrance to the couloir had to literally swim in deep, loose snow. It took about half an hour and strongly tired. With sadness I remember at the bottom left-skiing ... but to drag them in order to then pass 100-200 meters and still throw ?!

That couloir. One glance upward enough to all the desire to look back once more disappeared completely. Once at the bottom, I asked Nicola Corradi (this is my friend, guide-Italian) how large avalanche danger this couloir, he gloomily shrugged, saying that traverse Testa di Lione dangerous. But now, standing under the protection of the rocks in front of the couloir, I quite clearly understood that in such conditions, the probability of an avalanche is almost absolute.

When planning a route, I knew that it would approach under the ridge is the most dangerous, but the specific terms were unknown to me, as they change almost every day.

And here it is, the moment of truth. One hope - to pass the neck, clinging to the rocks, then couloir narrows - where you can catch at slip flooring that has not yet touched the sun. In such situations, I usually pray. As far as helping prayer - a difficult question, but the fact that now I write these lines, says a lot ... After prayers came a sense of calm, everything will be as it should be.

Climbing the couloir - three o'clock limit stress - both moral and physical. Lots of dense snow interspersed with very unpleasant loose in places where it is necessary to penetrate deep trench to the next island dense crust ... The threat of avalanche pressure on his shoulders several times increasing the weight of the already heavy backpack. Slowly, very slowly, remain at the bottom of the neck first couloir, smooth rotation, narrowing ... More rotate, and within sight of the end appears my torment - saddle. It remains up to some hundred meters. Step. More step. Fell to his waist. Lay, braced himself, crawled out from under the backpack, got up, put on a backpack. More step. Again failed.

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Well, that's the end of my suffering snow! The long-awaited saddle. Then - no snow! Bare rocks, by this time already quite warmed by the sun. Grace! Now, after five hours of continuous operation, you can afford a small break.

Sheltered from the gusts of icy wind under a rock in the early tooth comb, I drown snow on a gas burner, make tea, break a chocolate bar. Behind - the most physically heavy part of the way ahead - the most technically difficult. In the lower part of its crest wide and not steep, dense sypuha, rocky outcrops. The higher, the steeper becomes comb debris disappear and start plate. It is important not to miss a moment in time and start insured. Had I been with a partner, we would go with the insurance from the very beginning, but solo ascent should look for a compromise - the speed / safety. Starting insured, I immediately slow down the speed of progress at least twice. It is justified in the case of passing the technically difficult part, but not acceptable for simple or very complex terrain.

Pulling, so this very moment - the beginning of the insurance, I almost did not seriously paid for it. Out on the smooth plate, decides to organize a safety station. But the surface of the rock is absolutely smooth, hook score ever. Need to go another five meters to the top of the plate - there out of the snow sticks istrёpannaya rope - like the release loop. This will be my station. But, taking a few steps, and put the cat on a snowy island - the only clue to the smooth rock falls into extremely unpleasant situation. Snow, as it turned out, not very firmly held on to rock ... further events develop over one and a half seconds at most. Book banality of life-speeding before his eyes, at the same moment becomes real to me - to the edge of the plate three meters, then - kilometer gulf code I inexorably moving out along with the ill-fated island snow ... instinctively turned over on his back, to see where flying, trying in vain to find a foothold under my feet ... to the edge of half a meter, an inner voice tells sad that I made a fatal mistake ... But such statements have always been and remains my bouts of extreme stubbornness. That, too err slightly impossible! ?? With the strength udesyaterёnnoy righteous indignation, the last time I rest in cats rock carving from it sparks ... and stop at the edge. Motionless, a long time coming and I understand that a miracle happened. I almost died ... Very versatile, distinctive feeling ...

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Impressed lessons learned continue to rise, carefully arranging insurance. To the hut Capanna di Carrel remains little more than a hundred meters vertically, much more time, you can not rush. The more so because there is no choice - I got to the same place, which I was told at the bottom - a smooth, slightly overhanging wall twenty meters ... At first glance, it is clear - free climbing here is not to go. Well, ITO as ITO. For those who are not familiar with this term, I explain: AID (artificial fulcrum) is the passage of a particularly difficult section (rock, ice, combined) with the help of various technical means. Using this technique, you can get through anything, the problem is only that AID usually takes a long time.

In addition, it is necessary to use ITO on the route, I was ready. The presence of high-end equipment allows to overcome the technical obstacles of any complexity. Organizes station, fix the rope and leave the backpack. With the help of hooks, stoppers and my friends go through a wall, protecting himself through kulachёk, do another station, come down, take off all the equipment left on the wall and climb upstairs using Zhumar. Then relax a little, to suffer for some time with a backpack, which, by its harmful nature of the character, of course, caught valve for karnizik middle of the wall, when I started to pull it up on a rope.

A couple of ropes to simple huts, fifteen minutes excavation of snow before the door to get inside, and oh, the bliss - after seven hours of non-human stress and ascent to 1000 meters, I was under the roof cozy house! Inside the cool, the thermometer on the wall shows -21, but as the wind in the house is not observed, and the frost I'm already used, the temperature seems to be quite comfortable. The hut is equipped with walkie stationary, batteries and solar panels, gas stove. Works even autonomous lighting! Although compact, the house can accommodate up to 40 guests, which can accommodate up to three tiered bunks. Soft spring mattresses, warm blankets. And all this at an altitude of 3870 meters above sea level, on a steep rocky ridge, below the top of one of the greatest mountains of the Alps!

After drinking tea, radioed down to announce that almost without incident (about the incident with the fall, I did not tell) reached the hut, get congratulations on this and weather forecast for the next three days - very bad, hurricane, blizzard and lack of visibility.

day Three

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Outside nose not vysunesh. House shaking so that I think he is about to fly away. On the radio, I was assured that the fears were groundless, the shelter is designed for such loads. But still dumb. To somehow fun, gave general cleaning. Someone left the hut several packages Sprite cans, - their content was freezing, jars burst, and turned everything around spattered with sticky substance extremely unpleasant in person. All washed, slept, dined and listened player. The wind does not abate. Set the alarm at five in the morning, and went to bed.

day Four

As soon as the east was getting brighter horizon in the west is an extremely dark and at the same time majestic picture - there is on a colossal black and blue screen, the rising sun lights up silhouettes of pointed peaks, lit on the top edge of the first rays of dawn . Over these peaks, as if thrusting wings of a bird, hovering clouds exclusively characteristic curved shape - the so-called "Cyrus" - a sign of an approaching hurricane. But for a long time to admire the spectacle I did not want. Not that it was devoid of aesthetic appeal, quite the opposite - a fantastically beautiful. A real pleasure can be obtained by considering a similar picture on the TV screen or on the photo ... screensaver on a computer monitor, too, would be just lovely sight. In my own situation, felt not so much beauty as beauty emanating from this threat. I knew perfectly well that follow a similar assumption.

But as you know, hope - very tenacious nature, especially when you hope for the best. Comes to mind another phrase about "what nourishes hope boys" ... and still one of the more drastic options - "hope - the food of fools."

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Wind almost was not - not strong gusts rare. If by a happy coincidence lull will last at least half a day ... All I have left to the top - it is 400 meters to the ridge of the peak Tindal - then snowy shoulder adjacent to the top - it is 250-300 meters without climbing, and 250 meters well equipped with a stationary handrail vertex bastion. In short, half-day of good weather and golden key in my pocket.

"There were charges for long ..." - as sung in the once popular song. While brewed coffee, I had to pack up and get ready to leave. After some hesitation, decided not to take a sleeping bag on the climb - even in the super-warm fluffy CAMP ARCTIC overnight on the crest, in the case of bad weather, could have ended very badly. Of equipment taking almost everything - 100 meters thin rope LANEX 7,9 mm - actually, it is necessary to use a folded twice, but in order to save time and weight, I used this as a basic single rope. Dozen pitons, my friends and set bookmarks, portable radio, flashlight, chocolate, biscuits and a thermos of hot coffee. Gritting his heart, has put in significant weight backpack huge, depressingly heavy professional camera. Have no desire to take pictures - too large internal stress, spend time and energy on photographing - means to reduce the chances of winning, which is already enough to swear ... console ourselves that in the event of loss of the rock hammer, I will have an alternative than to hammer hook ...

The sudden sense of the decision to go the route. From the hut Capanna di Carrel crest rises sharply, turning into a narrow chain gendarmes. Route on this site comes traverse along the southern slope, about 20 meters below the crest. Climbing is a simple, but very dumb because of the large amount of snow ... clues not see opportunities for the organization of insurance also do not shine diversity - all the cracks and fissures of rocks densely packed with snow. Among other things, in spite of the winter season, the route is full of living stones of various sizes. Using the already proven techniques previously insurance through kulachёk slowly move up, giving himself out of a backpack rope. In two hours time to climb the 200 meters - is half way to Tindal, and a third of the total distance that separates me from the top.

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn The radio lying in the warmth of his bosom, suddenly came to life and asked sleepily Nikola as I heard about the case ... that I went to the route, my friend broke quite a long tirade in Italian, the meaning of which I caught more by her tone and an abundance of expletives. Did I see what is happening in the sky? I heard yesterday forecast? I drank a lot before and so on ... I fully understand the validity of anxiety a person in the security below and in similar conditions devoid of the possibility of providing physical assistance - no helicopter will not fly into a hurricane. I could not calm down as Nicholas, appointed another session in an hour, and received another batch of strong recommendations immediately go down to the hut, turned off the radio. Doubt that today come out on top will fail, every minute was getting smaller. Weather inexorably and rapidly deteriorating. Cloud, long time club over the neighboring vertices, slipped from her and grow and was rapidly moving in my direction. Accept a hard decision to stop the rise. Judging by the speed with which the approaching cloud of time I remain no more than half an hour. About the top, you can not even think of today, but you can try to climb a little higher and see the route. Leaving a backpack at the station, I'm going up gesture expressing his attitude toward the approaching bad weather ... Contrary to expectations, takes an hour, and significant changes in the situation does not occur. Dense overcast clubs in 100 meters below me, but not in a hurry to climb.

I leisurely climb up the steep snow-covered rocks. Sloping slabs interspersed with small vertical section, on the border of which manage to organize what no insurance. The route ahead is viewed well before the shoulder remains no more than 100 meters vertically ... And here I was catching up with the cloud. First, visibility dropped to ten meters, and it became clear that it's time to think about the descent. However, in order to start the descent station need to arrange, and it is just in this particular location has been a problem. The remainder of the rope is clearly not enough until the next rocky ledge, where we could find a place to hook or (more fun) - the old release loop. I was in the heart of smooth inclined plate in a state of deep thought about their future actions. But we need something to solve, since Clear was getting tighter and rock, to which I would like to get to, had already disappeared in the fog.

From a state of deep meditation, I was led to human voices. That's really what I least expected to hear. Strange phenomenon fog ...

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Cut off from the society alone, the person is open to the various manifestations of the unknown, from which in normal life it reliably covers shield the ordinary. Going beyond the usual and familiar reality, you risk to face the fact that it is difficult to understand, accept and explain. But anyway, to preserve domestic tranquility, meeting with unexplained, or just close their eyes or upihivaesh phenomenon in the standard framework of general ideas about reality ... Well, led to the philosophy ...

So voice. Despite the fact that in the silence and the absence of wind sound was very crisp at the same time he was like a blurry - I had not listened to, no words, no language spoken, it was impossible to disassemble. Immediately there was a standard explanation - fog, through which the sound is transmitted much better than air snitched from the bottom piece of the conversation of people who are at least five kilometers away. And two kilometers below ...

But for a long time I did not have to wonder - strong wind and snowstorm began abruptly, turned the descent into a struggle for survival. Looking for a place for the station, I tried to climb to the ridge, where nearly fell due to a sharp gust of wind. In addition, the entire upper part of the ridge is very destroyed - even the huge rock blocks do not allow for insurance - there's just all reeling ... Something like expressing their emotions with appropriate expressions, and spitting on the snow, go down to the last hook. Then I waited very unpleasant sight. My hundred-meter rope, which I was going to quickly go down to the hut, was dumped half a broken wind from the crest of stone. Here is when the problems started. Wind everything was amplified and soon blew with such force that the move could only brief moments between gusts. Rope, shortened by almost half (of course, it had to be cut off), when the wind prodёrgivanii constantly confused and stuck. Spending on the rise for three hours five o'clock I went down to the hut in the absence of visibility. The last fifteen meters to the house were the most difficult. There had to quit due to cover the ridge and, after a small snow saddle, to be equipped with steel platform platform - the basis of the hut. But airflow howling shimmering over the crest was so dense that even holding on to the rope, I could not stay on his feet. After half an hour waiting painfully cold, I waited for the short-term weakening of the wind on all fours and crawled to the steel parapet hut. The next half hour I tried prodёrnut rope that tied the wind instantly fancy knot around the trigger loop ... Somehow still eventually pulling it, I was convinced that she did not fall down going - all the remaining 60 meters of rope stood at attention in the elastic jet airflow ...

Then, to make war a little to the front door, I crawled into the hut was shaking all over. For a while we were shaking together, but I soon warmed up. Compared to yesterday afternoon inside the hut much warmer - the thermometer -10 ... bad sign.

day Five

Wind unabated. Going outside, admiring the snowy feathers growing on deployed to the wind vertical surfaces. Clouds, dissected hurricane wind of "comb" rocky ridge, settle on it bizarre snow build-up. Looks nice and hopeless - the whole ridge was covered with a thick layer of compacted snow dvadtsatisantimetrovym - until it was blown off the wind or the sun can melt did not even think about continuing the ascent. Abundant leisure spend on a detailed study of the structure of the hut, cleaning and cooking experiments.

day Six

Forecast an improvement in the weather tomorrow. Number of frost on the crest slightly decreased, the wind blows in gusts. Considering days, found another problem - time is running out. Three days later, you have to be in Milan ... Agree firm decision - tomorrow I go upstairs, and regardless of the outcome - the next day down.

seventh day

Weather is clearly improving. Wind, although very strong, at times completely calms down, cleared the horizon, excellent visibility. Cold. The early rise has given nothing - until 10 am had to wait weakening wind, which, together with a killing frost made an early exit virtually impossible. At 10 I decided to wait on does not make sense, and, having dressed themselves all that was warm, came out on the route. Soon, all my fears were justified. Move up very hard - namёrzshy the rocks snow created serious inconveniences did climbing extremely unreliable. In addition, short rope made it impossible to run as fast as before. Spending a half times more time, I managed to get up to the same level where I went last time. The north wind, although quite strong, yet not particularly bothered my progress as I was on the south side of the ridge, under the protection of the rocks. But there is closer and become appreciable snow flag, blown away with the open shoulder peak Tindal. The situation is not in my favor - go out of the protection of the rocks on a narrow snowy crest width in meters at the storm crosswind would be unwise to put it mildly - to arrange insurance for the snow alone is impossible, and judging by the elastic cotton wind wafting from above, blow away there instantly. Communicate by radio with Nikola, describe the situation to him and get a strong recommendation not to go Tindal. In fact, I myself knew that it was time to return. Time before dark was no more than two and a half hours - just enough to require descent. And in front of a simple, but almost impassable in such conditions section of the route ... The choice is limited.

The descent took place without incident, but descended to the cabin, I discovered that the rope in one place is badly damaged. I had to trim it again for another 20 meters ...

day Eight

Mountain climbing in the Alps, climbing the Matterhorn Down. Weather rings. No wind and no clouds on the horizon. But the option to defer a visa and be late for the plane is not taken into account ...

All that was left of my wonderful 100 meter rope - is a stub length of 38 meters. For the descent of the very few - the distance between the stationary triggers loops 25 meters - calculated under fifty dollars, and I do not get them. We have to leave hooks, fortunately, they have me missing. On the descent to the saddle was picked for a long time - much longer than planned. Sun, meanwhile, has risen almost to the zenith and violently beating down the cliff, quickly clearing them from the snow. Thundered the first avalanche. Again, you need to go into that damned couloir! Snow in it limp, became wet and heavy, from crust were only vague memories. Without risking punching trail, I lay down on my stomach and slowing down an ice pick and front teeth cat food down. The rope is wound not - she stretched out to its full length, sliding down next to me - if I come down and avalanche zasypet, the rope will help rescuers in search of ...

Nothing happened. Pressed against the sun-warmed rocks, take a breath. You're a couple of nasty cross sections and everything will be over. But how can you not want to move away from the sound rocks!

Two hours later, I drink hot tea, sitting on a backpack under the walls of Abruzzi hut. The first minutes of relaxation after eight days of continuous voltage ... Oddly enough, it was not possible to climb to the top, not how much depressing. I did everything I could, and most importantly - stay alive! This alone is enough to recognize the event has been completed!

Hearing the roar of avalanches close, turn around. It is. Just went in my footsteps ...

At the bottom of my friends were waiting, wine and hot pizza. In the deep blue sky prevailed over the Matterhorn Cervino - farewell tears streaming down its slopes, large and small avalanches. Do not cry, Mountain, see you soon again! Goodbye!