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Dykh Tau

Northern Central Caucasus. Russia, Kabardino-Balkaria. Climbing Dykh Tau, 5203 m.

Altitude: 5203 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Duration: 13 days
Season: June - September
First climb:
John Garford Cokkin, 1888
Program price from: 3500 Euro

Northern Central Caucasus, Bezengi valley. Climbing Dykh Tau (5203 m). Classic climb of Dykh Tau (5203 m) by the North Crest (Cokkin route, 4a Russian Grade)

Program "Classics of Bezengi" is available on the reservation at least 90 day prior the trip - special permission needed for entering the border area.

Guided climb of Dykh Tau - is the exclusive mountain program of MCS AlexClimb, the program which we run for more than 10 years.

The Dykh Tau climbing program is guided by the founder of MCS AlexClimb Alex Trubachev, who has completed 12 (2020) successful ascents of Dykh Tau, also got an absolute record of Bezengi - 4 ascents on Dykh Tau per month, as well as ascending Dykh Tau with a deaf-mute Japanese Tamura Satoshi in 2018. Due to the high risk of the glacier collaps, for the 2021 season, we changed the climb line to a safer option. In addition, from the 2021 season, the option of the porters has been included in our Dykh Tau climbing program.

Dykh Tau is located opposite to the famous Bezengi Wall in the so called "Northern Massif". Dykh Tau is the second high mountain of the Caucasus - higher is Elbrus only (5648 m). By the difficulty of the routes it is one of the most complicated climbing objects in Caucasus.

Classical route of Dykh Tau - The North Ridge - for the first time was climbed in 1888 by Austrian team under the command of the famous climber of these times - John Garford Cokkin. Until our time the route did not loose its attraction for the climbers of the highest competence and is one of the most serious and beautiful climbing possibilities the Main Caucasus can offer. The route is classified in the Russian grade system as 4a which is comparable with AD+ in European system. The North Ridge of Dykh Tau is long, mixt, objectively dangerous route. Dykh Tau is the Legend mountain, desired goal for the any climber. The mountain which demands from the climber the maximum of his physical and mental abilities.

This 13-day program "Climbing Dykh Tau, Russia" is designed for people who have no illisions about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of Dykh Tau is technically difficult and dangerous, requires a discipline, coherence, good physical form and possession of practiced skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend passing the MCS AlexClimb Course of general physical preparation and Cours of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work. As for Kamchatka programs - in addition to our climbing safety issues, the armed ranger accompanies the group to protect participants from too close contact with the wild life.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Bezengi climbing schedule (climbing Dykh Tau 2021):

Guided ascent of Dykh Tau (5202 m) from the North, 4A Russian Grade
Difficult Climb, High level

Program "Climbing Dykh Tau from Bezengi" is available on the reservation at least 90 day prior the trip - special permission needed for entering the border area.

Day 1 - International flight to Moscow, hotel accommodation***
Day 2 - Domestic flight to Minvody, transfer to the Bezengi Base Camp, accommodation
Day 3 - Acclimatization
Day 4 - Acclimatization
Day 5 - Acclimatization
Day 6 - Climbing to the Camp I (Russian Bivouac, 3900 m)
Day 7 - Climbing the North Ridge to the Camp II, 4800 m
Day 8 - Summit Day, climbing Dykh Tau 5203 m, descent to the Camp II, 4800 m
Day 9 - Descent to the Camp I, Russian Bivouac, 3900 m
Day 10 - Descent to the Bezengi Base Camp
Day 11 - Spare Summit Day
Day 12 - Spare Summit Day
Day 13 - Return to the Bezengi Base Camp, accommodation
Day 14 - Transfer to Minvody and domestic flight to Moscow, hotel accommodation***
Day 15 - Return International Flight

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Dykh Tau North Ridge, season 2021":

From 3200 Euro - private program for 1 participant at the 1:1 guide/client ratio

The final cost of climbing Dykh Tau depends on the following factors:

  • your actual mountaineering experience (the possible program format depends on this),
  • guide / client ratio - 1:1, 1:2, 2:1
  • the need for additional services (porters, cook),
  • dates of the program

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the top difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are extremely high;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Mount Elbrus is highly recommended before climbing Dykh Tau, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Nalchik), using the communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Russian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses** to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Nalchik),
one day in Moscow if you have long transfer***, obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 2
Guides: 2

*AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can provide Russian Visa support for you. More information on request.
**AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book the flights for you.
***AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book hotel for you in Moscow and organize, transfers sightseeing and recreations according to your preferences - basic Moscow package cost is 270 Euro wich inclides pick up and drop off in the airport and one night in the Hotel 3*.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Russia. Classics of Bezengi - climbing Dykh Tau" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.