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Tetnuld - Gestola

Georgia, South Caucasus, Svanetia. Climbing Tetnuld and Gestola via  with acclimatization on Mount Koruldi.

Variation of the Mount Gestola climbing route with approach from Russian Federation is here

Altitude: 4920 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)
Duration: 13 days
Season: July - September
Program price from: 1600 Euro

  • 25.07.21 - 07.08.21Group 6 participants 1600 EURO booking

Mountain climbing program "Climbimg Tetnuld and Gestola from South with acclimatization on the Koruldi peak" with MCS AlexClimb and Bezengi Guides

The twin Caucasian mountains of Gestola and Tetnuld are located in the most severe region of the Main Caucasus Range, in the Bezengi junction. Not far to the south from the peak of Gestola which is symbolizing the Bezengi gorge on the north side of the Caucasus, is located the peak of Tetnuld, which is also symbolic for Svaneti – Georgian mountain region to the south of the Main Caucasian Range. The well-known Mount Tetnuld in Svaneti is called Groom Mountain, for its snow-white dress and proud posture.

These two peaks are mirror-like one to the other, and if someone had thought to look at them in profile from a bird's eye view, he would have been struck by the amazing coincidence of theses mountains outlines - the both peaks seem to be reflected in an invisible mirror, so their outlines are so similar. Climbing Mount Gestola and Mount Tetnuld always was appreciated by climbers, as a serious enough, far from popular but fairy interesting routes to very beautiful peaks. Both Tetnuld and Gestola belong to the climbing "middle class", with the categories of classical routes within the range 3a- 4a Russian Grade which is comparable with AD- AD+

The idea of a double ascent to Mount Tetnuld and Mount Gestola is logically justified by their location - only the narrow snow saddle about 3 kilometers long with a small rock bastion 4200 meters is convenient for intermediate camping sites and ascents of Mount Tetnuld along the Northern Ridge and Mount Gestola along the South Ridge.

This combination of two ascents is a real climbing expedition in a very beautiful and popular, but nonetheless inaccessible area, away from crowded tourist routes. With a significant height (both peaks have an altitude close to the mark of 5000 m) and a set of real technical difficulties, the combined route does not represent any exceptional difficulty and does not require from the participants to stay for a long time at high altitude. In order to take part in this expedition, you need a good physical shape, experience of similar ascents of primary and secondary difficulty categories and the basic skills of dealing with climbing gear.

This 13-day program "Climbimg Tetnuld and Gestola from South with acclimatization on Koruldi peak" is designed for people who have prior experience in mountain climbing. This program includes ascensions of the basic level of Mount Koruldi as an acclimatization part and Mount Gestola and Mount Tetnuld as a main climbimg part of the moderate difficulty level. We recommend the taking part in the training module "Norway Iceclimbing winter course" and MCS AlexClimb Course of Mountain Technique (basic level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Georgia Caucasus climbing schedule:

Climbing Tetnuld (4920 m) and  Gestola (4850 m) via Lyalver with Koruldi acclimatization, season 2021
Moderate difficulty Climb, Advanced level

Day 1  – arrival to Kutaisi, airport pick up, transfer to the hostel, overnight stay at the hostel, dinner
Day 2 
– 4x4 transfer directly to the Koruldi camping site, setting the tents. (7 hours), ), overnight in the tents on the grass, breakfast in the hostel, lunch in the restaurant on the way can be paid separately, dinner – outdoor ration
Day 3 
– climbing the top of Mount Koruldi 3700m, descent to Mestia, overnight in the Guest house, breakfast outdoor ration, dinner in the house, lunch can be paid separately in Mestia
Day 4  – 4x4 transfer to the beginning of the Gestola South route – Dzhabeshi village, climbing up the Zanner glacier and setting the Camp I 3200 m. Breakfast in the house, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared), overnight in tents on the grass
Day 5 
– climbing Zanner glacier and setting the Camp II 3700 m on the second step of the glacier. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared), overnight in tents on the snow
Day 6 
- climbing the Saddle between Tetnuld and Gestola, setting the Camp III (4200 m). Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared), overnight in tents on the snow
Day 7
- climbing Summit of Gestola (4850m) by the South Crest, descent to the Camp III (4200 m). Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 8 - climbing Summit of Tetnuld (4850m) by the North Crest, descent to the Camp III (4200 m). Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 9 - spare day. Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 10 
- spare day. Overnight in tents on the snow. Breakfast, lunch and dinner outdoor rations (self-prepared)
Day 11 
– descent to the Zanner glacier, descent to the Dzhabeshi village, accommodation in a Guest house. Breakfast and lunch outdoor rations (self-prepared), dinner in the house, overnight in the Guest house
Day 12 
- departure. Breakfast in the house, transfer to Kutaisi (additional night in Kutaisi is not included in the price of the program)

Prices and conditions

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

The price of the Tetnuld and Gestola from Svaneti climbing program 2021 from: 1600 Euro

previous climbing experience, good physical form, the Brief MCS AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Kutaisi), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Georgian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Kutaisi), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 8
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Georgia, check that in the Georgian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Climbing Tetnuld and Gestola from Svanetia with Koruldi peak acclimatization" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.