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North Central Caucasus. Russia. Kabardino-Balkaria. Climbing in Bezengi Valley - climbing Peak Dumala"

Altitude: 4557 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)

Duration: 75days
Season: June - September
Program price from: 550 Euro

Climbing Peak Dumala (4557 m) - the program of MCS AlexClimb mountaineering School in collaboration with alpine educational center  "Bezengi".

Program "Mountain climbing in Bezengi valley, climbing Mount Dumala" is available on the reservation at least 60 day prior the trip - special permission needed for entering the border area.

Mount Dumala is located in the Northern Bezengi massif, opposite the second highest peak in Europe - Dykh Tau. Mount Dumala closes the gorge of the same name, and with a col it connects to the neighboring gorge “Warm Corner”, which is very popular due to its accessibility from Bezengi Camp. Due to the high concentration of the routes of different difficulty categories, the Warm Corner gorge, from which we climb the summit of Mount Dumala, is the most popular among climbers part of the Bezengi alpine camp area.

Climbing to the top of Mount Dumala is a route of medium difficulty (3a, along the north-west ridge), the routes requires some skill and the ability to move with protection on ice and rocks. The height of Mount Dumala is 4557 m, combined with the complexity of the route 3a Russian Grade, makes climbing Mount Dumala the optimal solution for the technical training and acclimatization before climbing more difficult peaks. Particularly useful climbing Mount Dumala can be in combination with climbing programs of Dykh Tau, Mount Shkhara and Koshtan Tau.

In addition, one of the important advantages of Mount Dumala is that this climbing route does not require a pass into the border zone (only for citizens of the Russian Federation, a pass is required for foreign citizens), which simplifies the bureaucratic red tape associated with being in the Bezengi area. Dumala Peak is ideally located relative to the key peaks of the Northern Bezengi Massif - Dykh Tau and Koshtan Tau. Being significantly lower than its majestic neighbors, Mount Dumala, nevertheless, gives an opportunity to have an ideal overview of the most serious Caucasian mountains.

The climbing program of Mount Dumala is a great opportunity to get not only acclimatization and training for further higher and more difficult routes, but also to enjoy stunning views of the legendary peaks of the highest part of Caucasus. Climbing Mount Dumala also can be organized as an independent climbing program (in this case, acclimatization is carried out on the easier routes). In case of lack of experience, this climb makes it possible to obtain the necessary skills and test yourself on a route that requires the use of the entire arsenal of climbing technique.

This 5-day program "Mountain climbing in Bezengi, climbing Mount Dumala" was developed for the people who have some prior experience in mountain climbing and who want to try themselves at the technical mountain climbing route. It is highly recommended to take a course of acclimatization before participation in Mount Dumala climbing program - our acclimatization program "Classic of Bezengi" is ideal from that pupose. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend passing the MCS AlexClimb Course of general physical preparation and  Course of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Caucasus Bezengi climbing schedule (Climbing Mount Dumala 2021)

Guided ascent of Mount Dumala (4557 m) North West ridge

Moderate difficulty Climb, Advanced level

Day 1 - Domestic flight to Nalchik, airport pick up and transfer to the "Bezengi" Base Camp, accommodation.
Day 2 - Acclimatization and preparation.
Day 3 - Approach to the beginning of Dumala climbing route, setting the camp 3900 m, overnight in the tents
Day 4 - Climbing the ice slope to the Ural-Dumala col, setting Camp II 4110, overnight in the tents
Day 5 - Summit day. Climbing the top of Mount Dumala 4557 m, descent to Bezengi Base Camp, accommodation
Day 6 - Departure

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Mount Dumala (Bezengi region), season 2021":

550 Euro* - mini-group 3-4 participants
900 Euro* - private program for 1-2 participants
* price per person

You have to be ready for: 

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program "Classics of Bezengi" is highly recommended before climbing Mount Dumala, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Nalchik), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Russian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses** to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Nalchik), one day in Moscow if you have long transfer***, obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 4
Guides: 1

*AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can provide Russian Visa support for you. More information on request.
**AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book the flights for you.
***AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can book hotel for you in Moscow and organize, transfers sightseeing and recreations according to your preferences - basic Moscow package cost is 270 Euro wich inclides pick up and drop off in the airport and one night in the Hotel 3*.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Caucasus. Russia. Bezengi. Climbing Peak Gestola" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.