Rockclimbing Tenerife. Rockclimbing dairy 2014

Cronicles of the autumn MCS AlexClimb rockclimbing trip to Canarias. Author - the Chief of MCS AlexClimb Alexey Trubachev!

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The program of Tenerife rockclimbing trip here!

It's damp outside and dull at heart ?! - The next edition of "climbing the messenger" is dedicated to only that completed the program in Tenerife - Take a break for a moment from the routine concerns, read - even if this time you did not go with us - your mood definitely improve on this small text, hastily stuffed stiff and white from magnesia fingers! And try to answer the simplest question, at least for themselves - why you were not with us on this program ?!
We arrived in Santa Cruz overcast November evening - Wet city looked dull even from the window of an airplane. On the black rocks of the island is low wandered dark gray clouds, clinging to a rare comb pines. Gray added candid picture puddle on the runway, which is eloquently silent on consistently bad and wet weather - the only factor that can bring down all our sports plans.
The winding highway flew to Granadilla and wet country road up to our traditional place of dislocation - standing alone on the mountain the old farm house, surrounded by vineyards and going somewhere far top pine forest.

The friendly owner of the villa was sad - a month it rained - a fact, incidentally, is quite unusual for Tenerife - but our house has managed to considerably podtopit - especially the lower floor, where, according to the owner assures us, the day before it was possible to swim in a boat in the kitchen ... In general, on arrival, before our eyes appeared very crude and deplorable picture.
However, the power of coincidences has not left us in the lurch! The next morning was suddenly clear - magically from the sky cleared all the dark clouds - only light aircraft clouds turned red at dawn and vanished after sunrise - began a series of remarkably clear and comfortable days, as if specially prepared and pending our arrival. Surprisingly, the rain did not stop for a month before us and ended exactly the day when, thrown into the trunk of three rope and thundering bunch of guys we went to conquer the smooth basalt vertical.
On the first day it became clear that our Canary climbing program becomes obvious features of a sports-training out - the guys are very concentrated approached to work on the routes, every day increasing the intensity of training and amount of climbing. For the second day in a coin box of achievements began to appear "onsights" and clean passage «second go» - albeit not higher categories, but still - a sign talking about really serious for the program participants to training and climbing.

Part of the focus on the training process has helped a total absence of the Internet - if the last of our visits to Tenerife, he was, at least, is the most wonderful store equipment in Granadilla - but now was neither the Internet nor the store - a clear loss for all climbing visitors island. Shop-it was a wonderful .... And there was an Internet free.
Somehow whirlwind flew the first week of the program in Tenerife - two full three-day training set, with the repetition of sectors and careful work on certain routes - is clearly beyond the relaxed orientation program. But the sports spirit and energy of the members of our boiling a small, in this time, the team demanded output and sales: category rose from day to day, guys desperately fighting for "onsights", and gave up the rock under fierce pressure steel fingers dexterous and savvy).

The second training block was marked by a surprisingly beautiful ascent to the summit of the volcano Teide - the highest volcano in Spain and the highest point of Tenerife - honest this ascent, a climb of 1,500 meters without any kanatok and elevators with access to the route at 3 am, a long ascent by barely noticeable trail among the bizarre lava sculptures and meeting incredible sunrise on the top of a steaming volcano. Rock climbing - for climbing program thing is pretty trivial, but, nevertheless, it is a good fit into the schedule of our training, but a blow to the strength and energy stocks was quite noticeable - calves and buttocks after the 8 hour climb to the summit gave itself felt two more days . But amid all the already available at this point of bruises, scratches, blisters, sprains shoulder, elbow and groin, light pain in the buttocks only complemented the overall picture of the sports lifestyle!
But in general, our everyday lives not shine how a variety of ... We live on a mountain - every morning a few minutes before the sun shows its glowing ember on the misty silhouette of the neighboring island of Gran Canaria, we go out into the courtyard of our lonely house in the pine forest and do exercises - the same set of exercises, which everyone remembers, were on our programs. After constant charge - breakfast overlooking the Atlantic Dawn - Action out of time and space under the bottomless blue sky and the endless blue of the Atlantic Ocean dalyu. Far below wakes up and extinguishes the lights Granadilla night - a quiet old town, far removed from the coastal zone of the tourist chaos.

Before smooth black beaches and warm ocean surf from us is not so close - down to the car takes 15-20 minutes ... but this distance is completely paid off the feeling of freedom and space of tranquility that reigns among the pines and cedars, leaving in the sky right from threshold of our historic villa to the rocky cliffs of the volcano Teide. We have no neighbors - only the wind noise in the fluffy conifer crowns and rustling of withered grape leaves in the yard.
Talking about personal achievements of the program participants, it should be noted that what has been mentioned above - all the guys came very intently to the training process - daily treated up to 10 routes! We worked seriously and thoughtfully. By the choice of routes suited ambitious and almost always cope with the tasks. I especially want to note the success of Ilya Devedzhiana - repeated participant of our previous programs!

Actually, it was Ilya, personal example set such an intense pace at the beginning of the program - the rest of the support and enhance the effect. Magical passage Ilya route La Placa Paranoia 6c in El Rio sector was even immortalized on video - the route is really beautiful and very interesting for its category - on this route Ilya showed confident, clean and very technical climb. There is no doubt that if not for early departure (Ilia left for five days before the end of the program), at its board of honor appeared to category 7a and 7b - these horizons are getting closer with each attempt. Well Well, in any case - it is a good basis for the next exit on the cliffs and wonderful occasion to a systematic approach to training in Moscow. The rest of the guys are not far behind - Sasha Pronin clicked routes as nuts, confidently picking up to the task - to learn to "on-sight" category 6b - and this task he performed repeatedly, even raised the bar to a "plus", and also made a good start for the future - tried category 6c and 6c +.

Lesch Kaftanov all pleasantly surprised, returned to training after a long break and starting from scratch (the first climbing days were given to him frankly difficult), but by the end of the first training set Lech performed miracles and almost caught up Pronina! And note, no "rasslabona" top rope we had - all routes are handled independently by staking guys to remove the station, and we can not say that the guys really tried - risked, frustrated, fell into the cactus again tried and succeeded . Anastasia Andreeva - the only girl in our men's team - also tried to keep up with the team, however, more on the approaches to the restaurants than ... routes. But if exercise more - that success is inevitable! Sports spirit of our team did not leave indifferent even me. Despite the fact that for half a year climbing, I lost a climbing global form, but looking at it with some gusto trained guys - there was no way to resist!

And I tortured his pale flabby body on a par with these young climbers and full of energy, has come even to the complete folly of attempts to 8c - with no, of course, the chances of success, but it is very flattering to himself)
Not tired yet read? Then I will say a few words on how exciting and useful we spend our evenings - because it is also part of the climbing program on this small island, lost in the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean. Since our house is designed in the tradition of the Spanish ascetic antiquity (even has a ghost in these narrow corridors of the old stone houses), no internet and wi faev here is not provided. However, due to the fact that our company is mainly crept very cultured and educated people - we do not feel cut off from civilization and do not suffer from a cultural hunger - evening discussion and debate after beautifully served dinner, outline and publish a separate edition.

For example, one evening was fully occupied very intellectual conversation, which began with a discussion of the features of the physiological structure of the brain, then smoothly flowed in a metaphysical direction of philosophical definitions of identity and consciousness, then swept by Plato and Freud led us into the depths of thermodynamics and quantum physics, the structure of the universe . And in the end, just not over this intelligent fight because of irreconcilable differences on the issue of the role of the personal will to the divine predestination of collective intelligence fate. But would the Internet - all would be sitting in the nose iPhone in your favorite chat rooms and husky! Here are the long forgotten simple human pleasures can give no internet in the house!

But alas, quickly and imperceptibly, our climbing program in Tenerife came to an end - the final training set was more of relief because of the team's fatigue, but we honestly worked for two days in the new sectors, very close acquaintance with the new relief and quite specific techniques of climbing on smooth granite passive cracks - and again it should be noted that the guys coped - even with the most unexpected technical solutions!
The final day of the program, we decided to spend as normal tourists - to devote his local tours - for example in the form of Elijah Devedzhiana we have not been, and for climbing on the rocks there was only one will - all the forces took Las Vegas sector and La Fantasma, which we climbed the day before. A trip to the mask and on the north-western tip of the island - the lighthouse Temo took all day and gave a lot of impressions from a variety of wonderfully unusual landscapes of the island - the Martian deserts of the upper tier of the volcano, bright, both from a children's book, tiny villages, clinging to the black cliffs, green oases, hidden in the deep and damp ravines, steep cliffs, leaving clouds of foam in the foam of the surf.

In the evening we said goodbye to the ocean - on the edge of the cliff above the raging Atlantic surf. I very much hope that feeling the warm breath of the ocean, the sun splashes and salty foam, will help us to keep warm at home and carry through our Russian, or, more politically correct, the Russian winter, the feelings of freedom and joy that warms much better and faster than any vodka or brandy !!
Good luck and new bright "on-sight"!