Mountain climbing school

 or 
all events
+7 926 233 3300 (whatsapp)
+44 793 7973396 (whatsapp)
 info@alexclimb.com

Altai dairy. The story of climbing the highest mountain in Siberia - Belukha in September 2013

Perhaps a bit artistic, but true story about our trip to Altai and climbing Mount Belukha. Author - Founder of the MCS AlexClimb mountain School - Alex Trubachev!

Only automatically translated version is available at the moment, sorry for the inconvenience.

Our Belukha climbing program here!

Altai mountains - like polustёrtaya Chronicle, silently keep traces of ancient civilizations, mysterious, ever left our world, but the pages are printed on stone strange symbols - and only the top of the rock and remember the silence that was. And maybe that will be.

In an open car window, tightly stuffed with members of the expedition and gear, pulled dank morning freshness, the smell of dust mixed with the intoxicating scent of mountain pastures. It began to dawn. The road from time to time crossed the dense fog band, our minibus was drowning in it, flashing lights dim white patch in front of the windshield. The sky brightened, and it was possible to distinguish the boundaries of shallow ridges covered with small, scattered here and there in neat birch groves. The day is rapidly approaching, but the vivacity of his approach did not add - impacted fatigue long journey from Barnaul, lingering in the dusty 18 hours.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Before the lowered barrier tired bus braked, and a cloud of dust, leaving behind us, slowly uplylo for barrier - free inspections and permits. PPC. Another absurdity of the Russian reality. Verification of documents, long sleepy viewing passports. Passengers no one checked and cross-checked with passports, but the group list with passport data had twice rewritten by hand ... To whom it swarming paper - what a great torment Russian travelers an abundance of these papers, without which it anywhere? Each time such rubbish ... Not only that passes in this godforsaken region had to wait for two months .. now this feeling of helplessness before the guys in camouflage, who just bullied by idleness on Pass tourists, justifying senseless requirements of their worthless presence. Whom and from whom the guards guarding the border, to which no one knows how many kilometers here ?! And around them a barrier is possible through the neighboring bushes. Only people who have come to rest and, of course, does not wish to disturb the moronic rules become willing victims of the Russian border control. unpleasant procedure humiliating and pointless.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

But as you know, all the trouble sooner or later come to an end, and, shaking his weary from the rewriting of documents by hand, I return to the car, clutching the other hand, the treasured piece of paper - permit to the border zone for a group of people eager to dive into the untouched world of wildlife.

A couple more hours of monotonous driving on a bumpy dirt road, and that seemed to come a suspension bridge over the Katun - brilliant work of engineering the Soviet era, with a broken-down, cross-linked with huge nails planks, ropes and a thick rusty scary props. But, in general, the design is impressive. Respect to the era that spawned it. We drove into Tungur village - the last major population center on this road, the starting point of almost all expeditions traveling to the area of the most famous peaks of Siberia - Belukha beauty.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Before we could pitch their tents near the cooling of the car, which is located on the meadow neat as from neighboring bushes to us quite purposefully headed two heavyset woman, with their faces clearly no signs of hospitality.

- You have no right to put a tent here, this is our territory, leave.
- How is "your" ?! then no fence, no signs of any - why we can not spend the night here?
- Vaughn - Aunt waved into the distance - a fence you can see - this is the territory of our base, and the whole surrounding area is also ours! - The tone of the statement was immediately clear that the aunt is clearly accustomed to behave with unsuspecting tourists.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

The conversation dragged on. I introduced myself and asked to provide in return. Our opponents were the manager and chief accountant of the nearby camp site. However, the interests of their base were clearly far beyond the understanding of the two aggressive aunts. I did not wait to take advantage of their offers database services. Just stupid aggression, desire to be the master of what is not theirs. And dispose of. Very Russian situation, a national trait. But traveling through our vast country, I have long since acquired immunity to such claims. Shrugging, I went to the car, took out another tent and laid it at the feet of furious women.

- Your claim will be considered after the presentation of the documents confirming your right to not let us into the territory. In the meantime, do not talk any more about anything.
- Well, wait a minute away! You are here still will not sleep, now our guys will come and explain everything to you !!

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

The conversation ended. The threat was clear, and was a dump, or to wait and see on these "rebyatok". Our group is very tired of the way, and I decided not to take the threat to heart, and not to go anywhere - why? The location is good, close to the settlement, the river too, and indulge in the evil arbitrariness is also not desirable. Continuation of the conflict did not have long to wait - come "roof." In the old motorcycle "Ural" with a carriage came four Altai. It is drunk.

- Hey, why are you on my own tent stavil mowing? Get out of the tent, then I'm going to mow (almost dark)
After these words, saying he pretended that he was going to get off the bike, I almost fell. At this point, it became very clear what to do next - after all, I have 10 years of traveling in these areas. Ignoring the threatening behavior of guests, I reached the main cup of vodka.

- On, drink, though it is necessary to get acquainted before the curse!

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

In response, I received an incredulous look very turbid eyes, Altaian hesitated a moment, but the cup still took.
- Why are you on my mowing tent set?
Without answering the question, I asked whether they have the horses - the next day we had to be put forward in the direction of Akkem Lake, and talks about the horses would have to carry it with these Altai people who still do not know where to look. And then, because of the evil Madame service, Altai themselves say - very well quarreling.
The cloudy eyes suddenly become meaningful. Altaian quickly drank, shook himself sober.

 

- There are horses, how many do you want?
- Ten zabroska to Akkem, pay for three days.
- There are no questions, agreed, how many horses to drive?

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Questions really was no more. We sat by the fire, drank and talked for life. I received an oath, that no more of us on this meadow will not be disturbed, and draw it, this meadow, then a meadow, and then the grass does not grow, live, say, on health.
A spiteful aunt of the camp site, meanwhile, walked along the fence waiting for their expulsion arrogant tourists. And it was a very unpleasant surprise, when those who had to drive out the enemy base, became instead a friendly goodbye to them, is clearly not going to expel anybody.
The next morning I deliberately drove past a horse standing at the fence buhgaltershi most aggressively manifested itself yesterday. Aunt snorted angrily and turned away in response to my greeting. But things could be otherwise ... No one would have refused to spend the night in a comfortable base conditions. And horses, too, we could find, and earn. However, there are things more valuable than money. Stupidity is like ...

Horse monotonously paced by a plurality of broken hooves trail. In the saddle for a few hours it was so comfortable that I started to fall asleep, lulled by dimensional rocking from side to side.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Gradually, the higher up our little caravan, wood became less and less, dense thickets of currant given way to more sparse bush honeysuckle. Sometimes the move could grasp a branch with a blue-gray berries with heavy and slightly brighten up the monotony of driving. Then the berries are completely gone, only the slender trunks of larches have made no secret of gaps at the top, to the exit at the upper plateau it was not much. Tired horses indifferent attitude to the arrival of the first camp, located in the middle of a strange rocky ridges covered with thickets of dwarf birch upper plateau, near the weather station Kara Turek. Horses are not the first time this route, and they were well aware that the food here is not to find any, and tomorrow will be even more hard day - pass Kara Turek from Kucherla Valley Akkem Valley - the coolest and highest part of the route.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

The first night on the route. Far below were all bureaucratic hurdles border posts, angry stupid people who do not see beyond their own nose swollen from constant discontent ... For many kilometers around stretches a wild, mountainous country that lives by the ancient laws, nor associated with any fetters of the civilized world. So strange to feel the transition from the familiar to us the reality of the real world. After all, he is the real one, we just forgot about it, hiding from him in the maze of the city and forget that it exists. And it's right on the canopy of the tent, to the horizon, crowned by snowy peaks and illuminated by the setting sun. A lot of space is not familiar and uncomfortable .... As a cockroach on the pure table .... The first overnight stop on the route. More fatigue keeps long flight and bustle of the roads. The body is rebuilt on a different rhythm of life. Now we have another task for the next 10 days - to come close to the most cherished shrine Altai mountains - Belukha. And, if you're lucky, and local spirits will be favorable to us - to climb on top of her.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

A few days transitions, heavy backpack, mud and wet stones trails, rain, ice slopes. For a man of the world civilization of comfort - a continuous series of tests on the strength of body and spirit, a constant struggle for survival. But this is the task of our campaign, because of the victory over all the inconveniences way is born a sense of their own strength, the sense of the restored connection with a source of natural energy.
... Camp on the snow. Tents are deeply buried in the snow, in the case of wind. Burrs primus, snow in the pot gradually darkens and turns into water - the most important product to survive in conditions of extreme high altitude. Water - a tea, it is porridge, that's life .... And have a lot of water, so that was enough for dinner, and for breakfast, because early in the morning, or rather late at night, we will try to implement the most important point of our program - climbing to the top of the most high mountains of Siberia. Until it has, we can say that file by hand - out, due to the ridge above the camp is visible piece of rocky ridge crowned with a snow cornice. It seems so close ....

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

.... Confidence was not the weather. Sunset was decorated with long, uncombed like cat tails clouds - known sign of bad weather.
But waking up in the middle of the night and sticking his nose out of the tent, I was convinced that the sky is relatively clean, and the whole mountain is visible - from the camp to the summit SILVER in the sky. While the horizon is not good mutnelo. But it is not now, it may deteriorate by dawn. And before dawn even as much 5-6 hours. The risk was, but the chance was also quite distinct, why not try? Going to fast - the equipment was ready in the evening, sleep was rather weak, tea and water, too, was ready - Boost of snow the night before, so as not to waste precious time in the morning. Sip tea with chocolate and dried fruit, and on the street, put on a cat. Contrary to expectations, the snow is not smёrzsya per night in a hard crust was quite warm - another alarming sign of confidence in the weather no. But over his head shining stars, the wind, too, no - this means that the bad weather will not bring a sudden and, in an emergency, you can always turn around and go down into the camp. All ready. Connects the rope, backpacks on their shoulders and forward.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

How many times have I climbed this route, but the pleasure of the ascent becomes less. Strange, it seems to be nothing special, flat, snow-covered glacier, easy rocky ridge and the summit, where several ridges converge. But a strange feeling, some kind of mad joy of movement, the breath, the creaking snow under the teeth of cats. If you really take a deep breath, you feel like laughing, like being tickled, feeling as if inflated inside a large lump of joy and rushes out. A strange feeling full of energy, proximity to something very clean and bright. Feeling Present. At such moments, particularly acute realize the value of paintings of Roerich, where the blue ridges leave in the blazing horizon, and the fog hides the secrets of the ancient temples. It's about Altai. Here there is the atmosphere of other-worldly greatness, which the artist has put in most of his works. But nothing Beluha generally a separate conversation, this is the most holy place Altai, focused his energy. Maybe it's deeply personal experiences, not all feel the same. But each time closer to the mountain, I feel some inner fading. And I can not explain anything. A very strong place, very clean and bright.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Start crest was thoroughly covered with snow falling above the knee, I broke trail to the cliffs and fastened the rope. Then move with the insurance, the rocks are quite steep, and although all the participants are well aware of how to move on this terrain, reliable insurance is required. Slowly rise from station to station, bright thread the rope winds between patches of lichen-covered rocks. Comb is not long, 400 meters, is 1.5-2 hours leisurely movement. But the brightening sky wings and does not allow to relax - the eastern horizon drags a dense film of clouds, and the hope of a comfortable descent lost - would have enough time to get to the top ... By the time the snow on top of the ridge tops of dense fog and crawled quickly covered a group of white veil. To the summit was some 100-150 meters, but visibility was not any.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Sorry, I had some half an hour before dawn fabulous sight from the top of Belukha. But the weather did not argue. We had to finish at least formally, our climb, even without sight, but the fact of climbing is necessary for the inner sense of the task. We continue to climb in dense fog - no wind and it looks like the weather all the same to us enough to climb. A few snow-ups, access to a wide snow ridge, climb into the misty obscurity seems endless, it is high time to be on top, and all the snow slope stretches up, the fog hides all landmarks. Suddenly it seemed that the left side is black. Rocky island with signs and stuck an ice pick into the cleft. At last, here is the desired goal of climbing. Let no visibility, but still felt a sense of victory at this point is particularly strong. Still, for the sake of this particular moment, we continually climbed up today six hours, went to the mountain for several days, by plane and car have covered thousands of kilometers. All for one minute of happiness on top of happiness just because he achieved another goal, sophisticated and desirable. Much has been written about this point. Everyone feels it differently, in their own way. But for all of it is equally valuable and will remain in the bank of the treasures that many do not share, but does not become less.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

For a long time there was no time to enjoy the joy of victory. The fog grew denser, because it began to drop large snow flakes. Weather lasted only as long as is necessary to lift the top. But success in climbing - it's not so much the fact rise to the top, as the fact of a safe descent to the camp, the most important thing.
Long rappels between rocks ridge rope winds and confused, completely lost visibility, snowfall began. Remains vertex joy disappeared in heavy fatigue and irritation, especially at a time when the last section of the descent rope still stuck at prodёrgivanii. Twitched, jerked, we tried to sneak it down, but a mean fortune openly mocked - and at a time when I almost believe that we are at the bottom and relaxed, I had to climb up again, to the station, where the tip of the rope fell and wedged between the stones. To climb was fun, I was pleased with the surrounding hills abundant expressions dedicated to the rope, and the stone itself, which became the cause of the delay on the way down. Once, in the camp at the atmosphere of the evening tea party, the guys from the next command, joyfully share the amazing observation - that when they went down in the fog from the nearby route, mountain echo heard before them scraps of phrases that combine all the usual word in a very unexpected, not heard until now then combinations ...

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

.... A small brook, zvenevshy next to the tent in the morning froze. Unfinished tea in the pot too, turned into a brown lens. Cold. The sky of the unreal blue color depth gives us confidence that today would be the best. Clearly, it would not rain, and this is important. The road on the descent is not complicated until dry, and after all the adventures, I want to quietly and comfortably reach Tungur, where the next day we have to pick up the car. The adventure continues - further road led to Mongolia, to the steppe and yurts of nomadic shepherds to the wild mountain lakes and the ancient sanctuary of ancient civilizations. And the most difficult part of the journey is over - against the backdrop of the sunset sky is white-headed silhouette Belugas. I can not believe. Here at the edge of the left peak yesterday we were drinking tea from a thermos and cautiously enjoy the feeling of victory over the elements. And from a distance it looks like is not available as a cloud, a white mirage.

Again dusty primer gearbox, long belt runs, stretching across the expanse of the steppe, rugged rocky ridges and deep canyons.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

... Of parked on the side of the road UAZ jumped long, hungry-looking man in the border form and waved merrily at our side striped stick.

 

- Border control, to produce documents!
The driver and passengers stretched passport.
Where a document for the right to stay in the border area?
- What ?! Sorry, but at what point we were in it? No PPC, no barrier, we did not pass - it is the road to Tashanta, there is an official border crossing point with Mongolia, we have a visa. And here some more passes are needed? Doubt ran across the face under the visor of his cap, an officer rushed back to the UAZ and someone there quickly spoke.
- Okay, go, now commander of a kind ....
- Thank you, Your Honour.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School

Let's go further. The mood is a little bit spoiled. I wonder what would happen if the commander was angry? We had to ask ... In the future .. While I want to believe that the future of this lawlessness is not. Because otherwise it would not be with us. With fewer and fewer opportunities to become comfortable stay in Russia every year. Why is that? After many amazingly beautiful and interesting areas, which are not found anywhere else in the world, so many people that the development of tourism would provide the opportunity to work and live in humane conditions.

 

And yet ... What would happen if the commander was angry ... Do not give me rest this question. After a month I go again with a group of the Altai.

Climbing Mount Belukha in Altai with the team of MCS AlexClimb climbing School