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Alpamayo climbing

Andes. Peru. Ancash. Exclusive mountain climbing program of MCS AlexClimb "Climbing Alpamayo, 5947m"

Altitude: 5947 m
Program category: Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: advanced (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)

Duration: 8 days
Season: May - September
First climb: Claude Kogan, 1951
Program price from: 5200 Euro

  • 01.08.24 - 16.08.24Minigroup 2x1 5200 USD booking
  • 16.08.24 - 01.09.24Minigroup 2x1 5200 USD booking

Exclusive mountain climbing program "Climbing Alpamayo West Face" with MCS AlexClimb Guides

Alpamayo - world wide famous Peruvian mountain, located in the upper reaches of the beautiful Santa Cruz Valley, officially considered as the Most Beautiful Mountain of the World.

If we talk about which mountain from all the mountains of Peru symbolize the Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range – the most beautiful mountain system famous by its incredible ice summit forms, most likely the specialists will not have two different opinions. In 1966 in the thematic photo exhibition which took place in Munich, the Peruvian mountain Alpamayo was grated the title "The Most Beautiful Mountain of the World". Surely this assertion is quite disputable, - if you exclaim that there can not be THE MOST beautiful mountain as all the mountains are beautiful in different ways, and their beauty depends mostly on the man's ability to see it, of course you will be right. But, standing on the snow saddle of the high pass between Alpamayo and the neighboring mountain Qitaraju, and being face to face with Alpamayo - it will be difficult to refuse this title to her. Alpamayo amazes by the correctness of its forms and by some power of attraction. Alpamayo West Face, oriented exactly to the West and covered with the ice and snow with deep vertical channels cut in it, burns on the sunsets with all the possible colors and it is one of the most incredible and astounding impressions, which man can get from his communication with the mountains.

The route begins in the Indian village Cashapampa from where it is two days trek to the Alpamayo Base Camp. All the gear necessary for the Alpamayo climb can be delivered to the Base Camp by mules or donkeys. From the Base Camp the route goes up by the hardly visible trek on the flat granite slopes to the edge of the glacier climbing of which can be complicated because of the multiple crevasses. After getting to the glacier we climb straight up 200-300 meters being very careful because of the already mentioned crevasses, and then climb the ice slope which gets more and more steep to the Alpamayo - Qitaraju Pass (50-60° in the upper part), where the Storm Camp is normally set (5600 m). This place is the best view point from where you can enjoy the incredible view of the West Face of Alpamayo, by which the normal route leads to its Summit. Classic Alpamayo Route (Ferrari) goes by the center of the Face. It is 400 meters of moderate steepness ice climb (from 60° in the lower part after bergschrund and as steep as 80-90° in the upper part). The Alpamayo or Qitaraju climbs normally take one day from the Storm Camp.

This 8-day program "Mountain climbing in Cordillera Blanca, Peru, climbing Alpamayo" is designed for people who have prior experience in mountain climbing and who want to try themselves at technical mountain climbing route. That is highly recommended to attach to the Alpamayo climbing program the acclimatization part - climbing easier mountains as Ishinca, Urus or Tocllaraju. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend the Course of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Course of Mountain Technique (basic level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb South America Andes climbing schedule (Climbing Alpamayo 2024)

Guided ascent of Alpamayo (5947 m) by the West Face, French Direct route
Difficult Climb, Advanced level

Day 1 - Transfer from Huaraz to Cashapampa (2900 m) with sightseeing in the Yungay Memorial, trekking up the Santa Cruz valley to the Llama Corral camping ground (3760 m). Loads are delivered by donkeys. Overnight in the tents
Day 2 - Trekking up the Santa Cruz valley to the Alpamayo BC (4550 m) by the Laguna Aruyercocha. Loads are delivered by donkeys. Overnight in the tents
Day 3 - Climbing the Alpamayo-Qitaraju Pass (5400 m) and setting the Storm Camp. Overnight in the tents
Day 4 - Summit day, climbing Alpamayo (5947 m) by the center of West Face. (the route choice depends on the snow/ice situation and face condition). Descent to the Storm Camp. Overnight in the tents
Day 5 - Spare day
Day 6 - Spare day
Day 7 - Descent to the Alpamayo BC. Overnight in the tents
Day 8 - Return to Huaraz, hostel accommodation

Prices and conditions

The price of the "Climbing Alpamayo 2024":

5200 Euro* - private program for 1-2 participants

You have to be ready for:

  • Climbing the route of the moderate difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are high enough;
  • Camping life in the field conditions;
  • Cooking your meals by yourself while climbing mountains;
  • Carrying a 20-25 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -20°C on the altitude higher than 3000 m;

Conditions: previous climbing experience, good physical form. Acclimatization program on Ishinca, Urus or Tocllaraju are highly recommended before climbing Alpamayo, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, porters and cook services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Huaraz), using the
communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Peruvian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Limai), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 4
Guides: 2

*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Peru, check that in Peruvian consulate in your home country.

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Andes. Peru. Climbing Alpamayo" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.