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Peak Pobeda climbing

Central Tian Shan. Kazakhstan - Kyrgyzstan. Climbing Khan Tengri from the North, 7010 m.

Altitude: 7439 m
Program category: Altitude Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: high (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)

Duration: 18 days
Season: August
First climb:
V. Abalakov, 1956

Program price from: 4100 Euro

  • 03.08.20 - 27.08.20mini group, special conditions 4100 EURO booking

Central Tian Shan. Climbing Peak Pobeda (Tomur Feng),7439 m. Classic climb of Peak Pobeda via Peak Vazha Pshavela (5b Russian Grade)

Climbing Pobeda Peak is possible only in format of the the VIP program. Experience of high altitude mountaineering is required

From the whole set of the seventhousanders located in the territory of the former USSR, Peak Pobeda always stood out for its extreme difficulty for climbing. At the same time, as Lenin Peak, for example, in the season was climbed by hundreds of climbers - the statistics of Pobeda Peak successful ascents are calculated by a very few groups and not every year. This unpopularity is connected firstly with some features of the climbing route of Pobeda Peak, due to which this mountain has earned the fame of the most dangerous mountain of the former USSR, and until 1974, when the mass mountain climbing became fashinable everywhere, the count was on the side of this Mountain - the dead were more than sucessfully climbed ...

Based on this information, it is understandable why MCS AlexClimb mountain climbing School does not organize regular climbing programs on Peak Pobeda. If the organization of the Khan Tengri or Peak Lenin climb, even the ascent of Peak Communism does not expose participants and organizers to the high risk of being in an uncontrolled dangerous situation or emergency, the climbing route of Peak Pobeda implies that the whole team becomes involved in the situation when any abnormality may come to disastrous consequences. We do not advise against the idea to climb the most unpredictable and interesting high-altitude Summit of the former Soviet Union. But we strongly recommend that approach to the idea of climbing Peak Pobeda is to be done with a critical eye and very careful calculating the forces.

This 18-day program "Climbing Peak Pobeda (Tomur Feng), Kyrgyzstan - China" is designed for the people who have no illisions about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of Peak Pobeda is very hard, technically difficult and dangerous, requires a discipline, coherence, good physical form and possession of practiced skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend participation in the Cource of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Cours of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work. 

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Tien Shan, Kazakhstan climbing schedule (Climbing Peak Pobeda 2020)

Guided ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m)
Altitude mountain climbing, advanced level

Day 124 - Individual schedule of acclimatization and high altitude climbing

Prices and conditions

The price of the MCS AlexClimb mountain program "Kazakhstan, Tian Shan. Climbing Peak Pobeda 2020":

from 4100 Euro * - private program for 1-2 participants
* Price per person

You have to be ready for:

  • High altitude expedition, very high physical loads
  • Two weeks of camping life in the very uncomfortable conditions;
  • Carrying a 25-30 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -40°C on the altitude higher than 5000 m;

Conditions: Individual program, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services,
local registering and climbing permits, rent of the communal equipment (navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel and camping accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Almaty), using the communal basic medical kitfood for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Kazakhstan visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Almaty), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 2
Guides: 2

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Tian Shan. Kazakhstan. Climbing Peak Pobeda" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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