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Khan Tengri climbing

Central Tian Shan. Kazakhstan - Kyrgyzstan. Climbing Khan Tengri from the North, 7010 m.

Altitude: 7010 m
Program category: Altitude Mountain Climbing

Duration: 18 days
Season: August
First climb:
M. Pogrebetskiy, 1931
Program price from: 3200 Euro

  • 03.08.21 - 24.08.21Group 4 participants 4200 EURO booking

Central Tian Shan. Climbing Peak Khan Tengri (7010 m). Classic climb of Khan Tengri from the North via Peak Chapaev (5a Russian Grade)

Guided climb of Peak Khan Tengri - is the exclusive mountain program of MCS AlexClimb, the program which we run without accidents for more than 10 years.

Deep in the stone heart of Tian Shan, on the crossroads of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgizia borders rises throwing its bold challenge to the sky the mountain of the perfectly correct form - slender pyramid of the famous Asian seventhousander - Khan Tengri. When sun is going down, summit dome of this mountain reflects crimson light of the sunset - probably, to that light phenomenon mountain owes its strange name - Kan-Too (Bloody mountain). Other variant of the name - Khan Tengri, can be translated from Chinese as "The King of Spirits"...

For the first time existence of this mountain is mentioned in the Chinese chronicles of the VI century. The first attempts to come close to the foot of Khan Tengri were undertaken in IXX century, and the first climb was accomplished by the Soviet expedition under direction of Michael Pogrebetskiy in 1931. For mountain climbing of that time it was an event of the highest importance which opened a new era in the history of the mountaineering. Today Khan Tengri, despite of its extremely remote location and technical difficulty, is very popular among the climbers from all the world as an object for sportive altitude climbing. The Khan Tengri Classic Route from the North technically is a bit more difficult than from the South, but much safer as the danger of avalanches is significantly less there. Location of the base camps is ideal for getting acclimatized, all technical parts of this route are equipped with a fixed ropes.

Climbing Peak Khan Tengri connected with top physical loads and using mountain climbing skills. Altitude climbing experience is essential for attempting Peak Khan Tengri. The Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended before the trip.

This 18-day program "Climbing Peak Khan Tengri, Kazakhstan - Kyrgyzstan" is designed for the people who have no illisions about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of Khan Tengri is very hard, technically difficult and dangerous, requires a discipline, coherence, good physical form and possession of practiced skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend participation in the Cource of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Cours of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.

The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work. 

Program Schedule

The AlexClimb Tien Shan, Kazakhstan climbing schedule (Climbing Peak Khan Tengri 2021)

Guided ascent of Peak Khan Tengri (7010 m)
Altitude mountain climbing, advanced level

Day 1 - International flight to Bishkek (Almaty), hotel accommodation 3*
Day 2 - Transfer to Karkara, overnight in the tents
Day 3 - Helicopter flight to the Base Camp on the North Inylchek glacier (4000 m), overnight in the tents
Day 4 - Carrying loads to the Camp I (4700 m), descent to BC, overnight in the tents
Day 5 - Climbing to the Camp I, overnight in the tents
Day 6 - Carrying loads to the Camp II (5500 m), descent to BC, overnight in the tents
Day 7 - Day off
Day 8 - Climbing to the Camp II, overnight in the tents
Day 9 - Acclimatization, climbing Peak Chapaev (6400 m), descent to the Camp II, overnight in the tents
Day 10 - Descent to BC, overnight in the tents
Day 11 - Day off
Day 12 - Day off
Day 13 - Climbing to the Camp II, overnight in the tents
Day 14 - Climbing the Col of Khan Tengri, setting Camp III (6200 m), overnight in the tents
Day 15 - Summit day, climbing Khan Tengri (7010 m), descent to the Camp III, overnight in the tents
Day 16 - Descent to BC, overnight in the tents
Day 17 - Spare Summit Day
Day 18 - Helicopter flight to Karkara, overnight in the tents
Day 19 - Transfer to Bishkek (Almaty), hotel accommodation 3*
Day 20 - Return International flight

Prices and conditions

The price of the MCS AlexClimb mountain program "Kazakhstan, Tian Shan. Climbing Peak Khan Tengri 2021":

4200 Euro * - standart group 3-4 participants
* Price per person

You have to be ready for:

  • High altitude expedition, very high physical loads
  • Two weeks of camping life in the very uncomfortable conditions;
  • Carrying a 25-30 kg backpack;
  • Air temperature can be down to -40°C on the altitude higher than 5000 m;

Conditions: minimum group 4 participants, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services,
local registering and climbing permits, rent of the communal equipment (navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel and camping accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Almaty), using the communal basic medical kitfood for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Kazakhstan visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Almaty), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 4
Guides: 1

Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Tian Shan. Kazakhstan. Climbing Peak Khan Tengri" can be read in the Offer section

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Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.