Is it possible to climb alone the highest mountain of the Caucasus and Europe - Elbrus?

If you ask such a question, my answer will be NO. Those who can afford to climb alone in the mountains from their own experience - without question, understand clearly the complexity and danger of such undertakings. As well as their personal responsibility to family, friends and completely strangers who, in the case of an accident, will risk their lives to provide rescue. Understanding all these aspects, as well as possessing the special technical and tactical climbing skills, sufficient physical form – only in that case you can afford such a luxury - to get a solo climbing challenge. Even among mountain professionals, there is no unequivocal attitude to solo climbing in the mountains. But one thing can be said with complete certainty - if you are a beginner, if you are led to the mountains by romance or the desire to prove yourself as a hero - find a good team, gain experience. As you grow more experienced, the desire to climb mountains alone most likely will go away.

In general, is it ok to go to the mountains alone? It is almost impossible to answer this question definitely. From the point of view of safety - solo climbing in mountaineering is completely unacceptable. From its very birth, alpine climbing involved working in a team - this is the only way to resist the pressure of the mountain elements and achieve truly high summits. However, the time of great victories and heroes is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Now, for the most climbers, mountaineering is a vacation, a chance of changing the habitual and boring environment to something new and fresh. In this format, many take mountaineering just as a change of scenery. And it is not surprising that often people are getting the ideas of going to the mountains alone.

Of course, the romantic desire to enjoy the mountains is familiar to most of us, to be one on one with the snow-white giants... To listen to the music of the wind and immerse yourself in the cosmic harmony of the sky high peaks. Get away from the everyday routine, stay in perfect solitude in the most beautiful corner of the earth, inaccessible to the hustle and bustle of the Internet. With a cup of hot coffee, enjoy the best performance in the world - the sunrise over the endless mountain ranges. Sounds tempting? Yes. But also it could be like this: a tent destroyed by the wind, icy rain and a wet sleeping bag. Attempts to call for the help from a wet and discharged phone — all the charge went into photographing flowers and dawns. Or inglorious death in a deep ice crevasse, in which it is almost impossible to find a missing man. Very often people do not understand the price they can pay for a rash and totally stupid act. Ask any mountain rescuer what he thinks about the "soloists", especially the "soloists-dreamers." In response, you will hear a lot of things which are completely not romantic.

In order not to be unfounded, below I give the statistics of mortality in the mountains for the period from 2010 to 2018. Information prepared on the basis of statistics of the Russian Mountaineering Federation.

In the author’s background there is the experience of solo climbs not only of Mount Elbrus, Mount Kazbek, Belukha Peak... But also much more difficult peaks and faces, technical solo ascents of the vertical rock of a height more than 700 meters, solo climbs of Matterhorn, Khan Tengri, experience of solo climbing the frozen waterfalls. Without pride in such “accomplishments,” I have the right to say that solo climbing in the mountains is not romance or recklessness. This is an extremely difficult technical task, which can be dealt only by having vast experience in climbing and perfect physical shape.

If you are new to mountaineering but you do not want to learn from the mistakes of others – if with no arguments, you have firmly decided to go to Mount Elbrus alone - this is a bad idea and an irresponsible act.

For such people, I will answer the question asked in the topic of the article. What is written below applies only to the Mount Elbrus South Route with high traffic, good cellular coverage and infrastructure. Trying to climb Mount Elbrus alone on any other route is suicide and a big dirty trick to everyone around.

Follow the basic guidelines:

1. Check out my article on solo climbing tactics;
2. Be sure to register with the local rescue service, tell them your plans, schedule, dates of entry and exit from the route;
3. Try to follow any organized group;
4. Keep in touch with one of your friends, report your condition, location;
5. If there is any sign of discomfort, return immediately. When climbing solo, such a decision should be done much earlier than if you climb in a group.

Text — Alexey Trubachev, founder of the MCS AlexClimb mountaineering and climbing school.

Other related questions:

• How much does it cost to climb Elbrus?
• How to get to the base of Elbrus from Moscow or Saint Petersburg?
• Which city is next to Elbrus? Transport logistics of the Mount Elbrus routes.
• How to prepare for the ascent of Elbrus?
• In what mountains is Elbrus located?
• At what time of the year is it better to climb Elbrus?
• How long does climbing Elbrus last?
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• What sights are there on Elbrus on the way to the top?