Alpamayo acclimatization

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Issues of acclimatization before climbing to the altitudes exceeding the zone of asymptomatic acclimatization (4000+) always arise when preparing expeditions in various mountainous regions of the planet.

High camp 5500 m on the Mount Alpamayo climbing route

Ascents of various technical levels at different latitudes have differences in the duration and intensity of acclimatization, however, without exception, all climbing programs related to staying at altitude have to include a preliminary acclimatization stage.

I wrote a separate text about acclimatization before climbing Ojos and Aconcagua. Below there are recommendations for preparation and acclimatization before climbing Nevado Alpamayo.

On the acclimatization climb in Cordillera Huayhuash

Speaking about the Alpamayo climbing program, the altitude of which practically reaches 6000 meters, it should be noted that this route not only involves a long (more than two days) stay at an altitude of more than 5000m, but also overcoming rather difficult technical obstacles at the altitudes of 5500 - 6000 m. These features of the Nevado Alpamayo climbing route require from the participants to be more attentive to the issue of acclimatization than on the other, less difficult climbing routes in the Cordillera Blanca mountain system in Peru.

Snow dome of Huascaran North

So, climbing Nevado Alpamayo is associated with overcoming technically difficult obstacles at an altitude exceeding 5000m. Most of the Alpamayo route, and especially its technical face part, is located at an altitude of 5300 - 5900 m.

Acclimatization climb to the summit of Nevado Toclaraju

In this part of the route, climbers are required not only to be able to endure physical exertion, as for example on any of the high-altitude trekking routes or simple mountain ascents. On the Nevado Alpamayo route, the group members overcome difficult technical obstacles, directly participate in the process of organizing of the protection, belay each other and the guide (if this format is provided for by the program conditions), perform complex coordinated actions within the team.

Climbing Nevado Alpamayo

All these features of the climbing route make high-quality acclimatization not only desirable, but necessary. If for climbing less difficult peaks at a similar altitude in Cordillera Blanca, it is enough to spend two or three days at altitudes of 4500-5000 meters, followed by a descent and rest for one or two nights in the comfortable conditions of the base camp, that approach is not convenient for climbing Nevado Alpamayo.

Massif of the highest mountain in Peru - Nevado Huascaran at sunrise

Before climbing any mountain route, associated with technical work at the altitude, it is necessary to achieve a stable positive state of the body, in which the critical physical loads can be combined with complex coordination work and adequate responsible decision-making.

One of the most famous and difficult peaks of Peru - Siula Grande (movie 'Touching the Void')

This result can be achieved through a longer acclimatization, including, among other things, activities related to coordination work at altitude - rock and iceclimbing training, going to technical climbing classes with a full set of the mountaineering equipment, training ascents of medium difficulty.

On the summit of Nevado Toclaraju during a training ascent while preparing the climb Nevado Alpamayo The main difference between the recommended acclimatization schedule before technical ascents, including Alpamayo, from the others, simpler (non-technical) routes, is that for the simple ascents, it is enough to get the general acclimatization, which allows you to be relatively safely at an altitude and perform work associated with moderate intense loads.

Climbing Nevado Huascaran, Peru

On the difficult technical climbing routes, significantly higher concentration and reaction speed, better physical shape are required. Peak loads on the technical routes can be several times higher than those on simpler climbing routes at the same altitudes. In addition, the technical climbing routes run on a more intense schedule and time frame - this is often a critical safety issue - any delay on a technical climbing route potentially can lead to an accident.

Panorama of the Cordillera Huayhuash, while acclimatization before climbing Nevado Alpamayo

Considering the above, it can be summarized that climbing Nevado Alpamayo, like other technical climbing routes in the zone of symptomatic acclimatization, is an event that is more demanding on the physical form of the participants, including the level and quality of their acclimatization.

This question is certainly individual, but in any case, no matter how well you endure the influence of altitude, you should not overestimate your strength or rely on a fortunate combination of circumstances.

The summit of Nevado Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca, seen from the summit of Nevado Alpamayo

If to climb Mount Urus, Pisco or Ishinka you can try after a short trek or even to attempt climbing without acclimatization, then before climbing Nevado Alpamayo such decisions carry significant risks not only for a particular group member, but for the climbing team as a whole.

Author of text and photos Alex Trubachev
Your guide to the mountain climbing and trekking of Peru and Bolivia

MCS EDIT 2023