Pamir climbing
Lenin Peak climbing
Central Pamir. Kyrgyzstan - Tajikistan. Climbing Peak Lenin, 7134 m.
Altitude: 7134 m
Program category: Altitude Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: high (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED)
Duration: 18 days
Season: August
First climb: V. Kovalev, 1954
Program price from: 1800 Euro
Central Pamir. Climbing Peak Lenina (7134 m). Classic climb of Peak Lenina via Mount Razdelnaya (5a Russian Grade)
Guided climb of Peak Lenin - is the exclusive mountain program of MCS AlexClimb, the program which we run without accidents for more than 10 years.
The comparable simplicity and substantial altitude of Peak Lenin make this mountain one of the most popular and accessible of the mountains which are combined in the Russian climbing program "Snow leopard" - during the Soviet times this title was given to the climbers who successfully climbed all the seventhousanders of Soviet Union - Peak Korzhenevskoy, Peak Lenin, Peak Pobeda and Peak Communism.
Lots of the climbers from many countries are coming to the foot of Peak Lenin in the end of July - beginning of August for trying themselves by challenging the mountain which is known as the easiest seventhousander of the former USSR. Not more than 10% of all the attempts end successfully: most of the climbers underestimate the mountain, which is not complicated with technical obstacles, but is exceptionally long, tough and hard for navigation in case of bad weather. The most important notice: if you are not experienced in the high altitude climbing - do not try Peak Lenin at your own risk - get the guide. This will increase your chances for success, but which is far more important - it will give you more chances to get back alive and healthy. Climbing Peak Lenin connected with top physical loads and using mountain climbing skills. Altitude climbing experience is essential for attempting Peak Lenin.
The Peak Lenin route begins from the Base Camp on the Lukovaya Poliana place, from where the trek to the First Glacier Camp (4300 m) begins. Until the Camp I the group is accompanied by the donkeys which are carrying the loads. Then, crossing short but heavily crevassed glacier step we get to the Upper Plateau (5100 m). Camp II is located on the left side scree slope. The altitude of the Camp II of the normal Peak Lenin route is 5400 m. From this Camp we get to the East Buttress of Mount Razdelnaya and by the steep snow slope climb to the Camp III - the most cold and uncomfortable camping site of the Peak Lenin route. The way from the Camp III to the top of Peak Lenin takes 8 - 12 hours of strenuous walking by the long flat steps of the Summit Plateau. If you are strong enough to get there and lucky enough to catch good weather window - you will get deeply impressed by crazy views of the most significant Pamir mountains including such as Peak Communism and Peak Korzhenevskoy.
This 18-day program "Climbing Peak Lenin, Kyrgyzstan - Tajikistan" is designed for the people who have no illisions about what they can expect in the mountains. Climbing route of Peak Lenin is very hard and quite dangerous, requires a discipline, coherence, good physical form and possession of practiced skills in belaying and dealing with different types of mountain terrain. Regardless your climbing experience, we recommend participation in the Cource of general physical preparation and passing MCS AlexClimb Cours of Mountain Technique (advanced level) before participating in this program.
The First Principle of MCS AlexClimb
The First Rule, by which we are guided in the development of our mountain programs - is safety. Professional Guides lead the group, the highest quality certificated equipment and the most modern navigation equipment are used. This guarantees the highest possible level of your safety in the mountains, which is the most important side of our work.
Program Schedule
The AlexClimb Pamir Kyrgyzstan climbing schedule (Climbing Peak Lenin 2020)
Guided ascent of Peak Lenin (7134 m)
Altitude mountain climbing, advanced level
Day 1 - International flight to Osh (Kyrgyzstan), hotel accommodation (B&B)
Day 2 - Transfer to Lukovaya Poliana BC (minibus), camping
Day 3 - Trekking to the Camp I (4300 m), using donkeys for moving loads
Day 4 - Acclimatization and carrying loads to the Camp II (5400 m), descent to the Camp I
Day 5 - Day off
Day 6 - Climbing and overnight in the Camp II
Day 7 - Acclimatization and carrying loads to the Camp III (6100 m), descent to the Camp I
Day 8 - Day off
Day 9 - Climbing and overnight in the Camp II
Day 10 - Climbing and overnight in the Camp III
Day 11 - Summit Day. Climbing Peak Lenin (7134 m), descent to the Camp III
Day 12 - Descent to the Camp I
Day 13 - Spare Summit Day
Day 14 - Spare Summit Day
Day 15 - Spare Summit Day
Day 16 - BC descent, camping
Day 17 - Transfer to Osh, hotel accommodation (B&B)
Day 18 - Return International Flight
Prices and conditions
The price of the MCS AlexClimb mountain program "Kyrgyzstan, Pamir. Climbing Peak Lenin 2020":
1800* Euro - standart group 5-6 participants
2200* Euro - mini-group 3-4 participants
3600* Euro - private program for 1-2 participants
*Price per person
You have to be ready for:
- High altitude expedition, very high physical loads
- Two weeks of camping life in the very uncomfortable conditions;
- Carrying a 25-30 kg backpack;
- Air temperature can be down to -40°C on the altitude higher than 5000 m;
Conditions: minimum group 4 participants, the Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended.
The price includes: Professional mountain guide services, local registering and climbing permits, rent of the communal equipment (navigation equipment, cooking gear), hotel and camping accommodation, transfers from the point of the beginning of the program to its end (Osh), using the communal basic medical kit, food for outdoor part of the program.
The price does not include: Kyrgyzstan visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Osh), obligatory climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, food and drinks while being in cities, using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 6
Guides: 2
*Most European citizens do not need visa for entering Kyrgyzstan, check that in the Kyrgyzstan consulate in your home country.
Detailed conditions and limitations on the program "Pamir. Kyrgyzstan. Climbing Peak Lenin" can be read in the Offer section
Our Principles
AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First
From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.
AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace
Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.
