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Rockclimbing Mallorca. Rockclimbing dairy 2014

Cronicles of the autumn MCS AlexClimb rockclimbing trip to Mallorca. Author - the Chief of MCS AlexClimb Alexey Trubachev!

Only automatically translated version is available at the moment, sorry for the inconvenience.

The program of Mallorca rockclimbing trip here!

Climbing in Mallorca. Climbing Gazette, issue October 2014.

Chronicles autumn climbing rock climbing School of departure MCS AlexClimb to Majorca, Boreal Island. Author - Coach Climbing School MCS AlexClimb - Alex Trubachev!
climbing exit program - here!
Mallorcan Rockclimbing Herald 2014, the first edition - 1-3 day
The sun rises, the sea is blue, screaming roosters and the distant mountain shrouded in the morning mist - the second day of climbing in Mallorca begins with .... Why, do not you think ?! Of course, you're not wrong! On the morning exercise, as it should be fine to start each morning in good company! I will be brief and concise so as not to spoil the mood of the person sitting in a dull office in Moscow the cold gloomy and melancholy envy watching the way somewhere boils fun sports life. Envy is bad, just warning you! It is better to cook climbing shoes and trunks to participate in our next program in Tenerife!
So, a brief report on our early departure to Majorca.

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

We arrived and accommodated us without any complications - as usual - the aircraft, a long strip of high-speed highway, a little walk on the dark country roads in search of the right turn, and finally came the long-awaited silence - blackened on the night sky background of an old mansion in a black park - our home for the next two weeks, pop cicadas, illuminated swimming pool does not fit into the rural idyll of suburban villas, but it is very handy after a long journey ...
The first training day was great - however, as expected. Sector pleased long 30ti meter routes on the gray limestone planes, routes are given the opportunity to experience all the features of climbing on natural terrain - slightly positive and vertical routes with innumerable solutions of foot - this is the best that you need in order to feel what we have long and meticulously teach you in the gym))
The results of the first day exceeded expectations - a set of routes from 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c for the first training session can be called quite ambitious, but we coped! The best result at Olga - 6c second go - and that's just the first day !!

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

And of course the general surroundings training deserves a few words - even the blue horizon, the rustle of dry autumn grass on a light fresh autumn breeze, the distant muffled roar of the surf, the gentle autumn sun of the Mediterranean ... well, perhaps, on the first issue of the Bulletin will be enough to you. Today we go to Magrener - a cozy cove surrounded by beautiful yellow rocks. Ahead - a whole day of climbing on the beach, with breaks for swimming) Good day to all!
Day 4-5
In the second edition of the Majorcan messenger, I will try briefly to inform you about what was happening to us and around us for the last two days after the publication of the first issue of our Bulletin!

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

Firstly - we were finally convinced that it is a heavenly place is completely occupied by the Germans of all possible ages, sizes and inclinations! They are everywhere, but we firmly keep the defense!
Second - level climbing in our friendly team for three days of training rose right up to 7b - it cost a little torn fingers and spent forces, why not, in the end - cuts and bruises will be treated in Moscow, and here we must climb! !
If the order - it all started with the fact that Sasha Rimarenko reached Baba ... It happens on vacation, you know ... Inspired by his example, to the same old woman climbed Dima. No sooner had they good at it climb as the Germans were captured and cunning of our baba, leaving the guys out of business. That was a start, set the desired tone of the international sports competition.

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

Revenge was taken the next day! Occupants still was not even on the horizon, and Sasha Kukushkin have heroically fought for the sighted. It fought since otherwise can not be called so intense and purposeful process. And Alexander won by opening our team score clean on-sight with staking 6a + !! This is a result worthy of mention in our Bulletin! Then it was cooler! Olga was noted on the sighting 6b and 6c is very beautiful passage. But as soon as we feel mashed enough to go to this route as we literally washed away the rain ... The day that promised so much ended victories and achievements in a puddle. Everything got wet, from the ropes and down to iPhones and Sasha's goupro.
The next day the sun came out, and all the previous day's humidity was only in the memories and the camcorder is not transferred bathing in the rain. During the whole day the sun of bliss, in the yellow cliffs above the blue sea in the world, we have achieved very good results, confidently stepping into the next category - now we have to credit the entire set up to 7b, and that is especially happy - that's clearly not the boundary of our potential! Guys proveshivajut own routes and relieve the 5th and early 6th category, this is how the seeds!

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

All we tanned and tightened, even the infected Losers passion for sport and voluntarily give up bad habits and inclinations!
Today we have a well-deserved rest day - the weather is conducive to swimming and sunbathing on the beach - we're going to spend half a day in a secluded scenic bay, and then - the traditional evening hike through the narrow streets and petlyuchim fortress walls of Alcudia.
We miss all of you! Stay up to date and see you in the next edition of the Majorcan messenger!
Issue 3 Day 6-7
In this edition of the Majorcan messenger I want briefly to say a few words about how well the rest, those who climbs well! Day returned us energy, a little spent three wonderful and hard day of climbing! Weather rings, the sea shines, the sun warms - the ideal environment to recover and tune in to the next training cycle - the ambitions we have - what OGOGO !!!

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

In a nutshell - we had a great holiday and now again returned to the severe sports activities.
By the way, this sport wellness check turned out more like a maliciously-training - the enthusiasm and skills of the participants are amazing and grow with each passing day, the eve of his fingers torn morning again spoiling for a fight !!
And rejoice for us - the current result of our training - 7c and it is not the limit)
Issue 4 Day 8-9
Greetings, friends! All the good day to you another edition of Majorcan messenger again!
Stay for a while outside the course of world events, our small team quickly adapted to the rhythm of island life - quiet and measured routine, is not marred by any political and natural disasters. Yesterday we had a relaxed day of rest - greeted the dawn at the easternmost tip of the island - Cape Formentor, where the Tramuntana mountain range goes into the depths of the Mediterranean Sea, and on the horizon the outlines of neighboring Ibiza Dumke visible.

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

After enjoying the enchanting spectacle of the solar disk birth of the depths of the Mediterranean, we went to see a standard set of local sights - walked through crooked streets Pollensa, bought a new hat, climbing sneakers for Sasha, and a couple of informative climbing books, looked into the convent Yuk - comfortable and nook immersed in the sleepy tranquility among the cliffs of Sierra Tramontana. In general, we have a rest with taste and dignity, although sometimes a little fooling around.
To enliven the story I want to write a few words about a small episode in our lives climbing - and the conclusions you can make yourself! What do you think of what occupation I found the guys, when a short trip to the city returned to the field in the evening ?!
Do not guess, you still can not guess! Gathered in a tight circle around the table on the veranda, under the strkot cicadas and twinkling starry sky, with the yellow light of the candles in the candelabra, the guys head plunged into the study, and (!!!) for the unfolding movements of the route of the famous Es Pontos - the world famous DWS category, mmm .... 9a + only. Like this. We draw conclusions.

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

Today we begin the third part of our training program in Mallorca. Force is not so much as a first trip, all a bit tired, but at the same time there was an understanding of its features, features of the techniques and tactics of climbing on natural terrain, healthy enthusiastic participants appreciated and bought quite clear outlines and sense of purpose. Without exception, all participants gained an understanding of the need to work on the technique of climbing and motivation for further training!
From the results of the program at this point I want to mention the obvious successes of both Alexandrov - they got to 6b +, however, is not on-sight, but nonetheless. Dmitry proved to be especially brightly on route 6a + Pink Panther in Fraguel sector.
But on difficult tracks we have left is some difficulty - "eight" is close, but the harsh reality suggests that this closeness is deceptive - category here pretty hard. Best achievements - two proveshennyh sevens - «La gorille a une bonne mine» - 7c in Fraguel sector, though a key movement we nasasyvayut two hours ... and classical 7c + in Hermita de Betlem sector - «La sombra de cain» - without first interception, but as many as five times. Plus guys taking off from the ceiling.
Good luck everyone! And before meeting in the final edition of our Bulletin!
Issue 5 9-12 Day

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

All good things end quickly, with better - faster ... Here, it seems only yesterday we arrived at this secluded villa, and collected in the morning on the first training session on the rocks. And today it fly back. 12 days climbing in Mallorca raced like a bright happy dream of another life - the mass of the elusive in the variety of experiences, explosions of joy and light cloud of grief - just like in real life, but in the life of a carefree, purposeful and harmonious - real life. And now need to wake up and come back to our world - according to the weather forecast to return to Moscow is to use all the available wardrobe.
The final issue I want to Majorcan messenger thank all those thanks to whom I was about to write what - our small team these days has turned into something more. United object, we put together our forces to address it - the result exceeded all expectations - we have grown together into a single organism in which every part of it, for all personality harmoniously complement organic whole.

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

We really came together as a team - this is most important and valuable achievement of the program.
Also thanks to all those who have followed our progress and supported us from far away - do not hesitate, we often think about you! Special thanks Leh Kozhevnikov - without worries and selfless labor, it is unlikely our team success would be so obvious!
If we talk about concrete results of the program - first of all it traveled route 34 categories from 5 to 7c + in 9 different sectors at various embodiments of relief. Dima and Sasha have shown themselves to be real fighters - in their arsenal now has alone proveshennye routes are the fifth and the sixth category. Star program will undoubtedly become Sasha Kukushkin - day by day, his climbing became smoother and more technical, routes - harder and ambitions have grown to 7a - with lower insurance Alexander dolez through and completed all movement on Buf famous route in the sector Alaro !!!

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

The result, which will forever remain in the memory of those who witnessed the heroic struggle of Alexander passive otkidami on 30ti meter overhang!
Julia - a dive into the new themes for it opened up new horizons of creativity and perhaps a new sports craze!
Olga - God forbid everyone to have at least part of the dedication and technical expertise, which not only allows us to solve the most intricate puzzles difficult routes, but most importantly - a shining example of all the participants motivated to overcome themselves and their own fears. The most challenging tracks of the program have been passed only by Olga - it is an indisputable fact.
And separately, be sure to say a few words about an inconspicuous, even at first unnamed member of our team ...

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain

Sergei, thank you for everything. Even though you put sheep shit in my backpack, snapping off a key clue to 7c +, slams the door at night and blew mosquitoes, she drowned in the mantis pool and constantly puts beer in Sasha's basket in the store ... But you did all this not out of malice, but only for we have seen you in the reflection of their weaknesses and learning your example with humor and lightness to experience those household roughness, without which it is impossible to do. Thank you, Sergei, he took responsibility for all of our schools!
Good luck and see you at training!

MCS AlexClimb School of rockclimbing on the island of Mallorca in Spain